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BreakMyWindow

E39 M5 restoration project

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Google chrome does the translation if you open that link in it.

I would only bother with the Vanos on the M62tu when you have to replace the timing chain rail guides.

Doing it all at the same time.

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Doing it all at the same time.

DIY or paying someone?

If paying someone, budget for half the car's value. It's a tough call, but can't really buy any better for the money you paid.

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Got some time to address the rear end paint work this weekend. The rear bumper, and boot lid looked like they had been washed with 1000grit sandpaper. Im not sure if the previous owner was trying to do a rangi 'Frozen' paint work effect or what. Meguiars clay bar, Meguiars scracth x 2.0 a whole lot of elbow grease, and some Mothers caranuba wax to finish off. I still have 4 doors and the front section to complete.

This is before, a trademe as pic :

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After :

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Purchased navcoder, and also ordered a USB to IBUS interface cable. No more annoying 'Check brake Light' message, and TV is now on in motion :-)

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Purchased navcoder, and also ordered a USB to IBUS interface cable. No more annoying 'Check brake Light' message, and TV is now on in motion :-)

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Didn't know you could recode TV to work in motion. Does your M5 have digital TV or is it going to defunct like mine when analogue is completely phased out.

Not that I use the TV much - would like to replace at some point with bluetooth/DVD/etc unfortunately, the cheap (and excellent) Dynavin knock-off I had for my 528i couldn't control OBC functions which are all done from the board monitor on my 540.

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dont have anything helpful to say but ill say it anyway.

when i used to have my old e46 328ci it used to have the old 3:4 tv screen and i found a guy on trademe who did tv and radio work on bmws. contacted him and paid him like $50 to recode the tv to work while driving. in hindsight it was probably a very stupid thing because one night i was watching the simpsons and nearly rear ended someone going 10kmh... but anyways my point is that it can be done. not sure about the whole digital/analogue thing tho..

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Purchased navcoder, and also ordered a USB to IBUS interface cable. No more annoying 'Check brake Light' message, and TV is now on in motion :-)

Posted Image

Nice work with the paint!! i coded mine to have tv in motion too...its ok while driving but not fantastic, stoped the cold check for number plate lights and also activated daytime running lights...man there is a lot you can turn on and off (I used bmw scanner 1.4.0)

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Rat eh ? That must've made you jump?

Reminds me of a guy in Malaysia who had a lizard fall out when he was changing something!

Halfway down page Linky

A friend of my dad was about to get in his car when he suddenly saw a tail peeking from inside a door left opened. The tail happened to be a tail of a big snake so he decided to drive using his other car.

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Didn't know you could recode TV to work in motion. Does your M5 have digital TV or is it going to defunct like mine when analogue is completely phased out.

Not that I use the TV much - would like to replace at some point with bluetooth/DVD/etc unfortunately, the cheap (and excellent) Dynavin knock-off I had for my 528i couldn't control OBC functions which are all done from the board monitor on my 540.

I have the old 4:3 monitor with mk2 nav and tv. Main purpose i got navcoder was to turn off the stupid 'check brake light' warning. There was no fault, just the old school lcm not happy with the facelift cellis tail lights.

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Have been trying to get to the bottom of an issue i've noticed since owning this thing. I think I may need to get it hooked up to Ray's GT1 tester..

Intermittently, the engine will start to hesitate and shudder when applying some throttle in the 1500rpm rev range. This is more pronounced in higher gears, i.e 4th 5th 6th. It will also feel flat if accelerating in any gear to the limiter. I'm not sure if the shuddering is related to this, but it will at times certainly feel down on power, and torque in the low-rpm rev range. Other times it won't. Have a set of brand-new mafs, fuel filter, and oxygen sensor arriving soon (as preventative maintenance) but im doubting it will be one of these items causing the issue. The re-occuring fault codes i've had so far are : Knock sensor fault cyl 3-4, and fuel pump relay.. maybe the early signs of a dying fuel pump, maybe a bad knock sensor, but i doubt the knock sensor would cause the shuddering and hesitation. All this is intermittent, and a pain to troubleshoot. #///Mcarproblems

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Is it misfiring. When I first got my 528i it started getting similar symptoms. Turned out it was the ignition coils on the way out. It was intermittent as you describe, presumably because the coils weren't completely rooted but not far off. Only difference was it seemed to happen more often when cold. Was fine once the coils were replaced.

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Nope, not misfiring. Well, no fault codes for it - the only code pulled up this morning was for knock sensor cylinders 3-4, however im not convinced the shuddering is caused by this fault, as if knock is detected, the power should be down, but smoothed out. The engine sounds like an old school rs turbo legacy with a 3' exhaust when it shudders/hesitates, which leads me to believe its something to do with exhaust timing, or a lack of fuel. this seems to occur more often after stop/start auckland m'way traffic, and then disappears when the flow of traffic is smoother. I really wish I could get the live data read whilst driving, but chances are the car will behave normaly when trying to reproduce the fault!

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Nope, not misfiring. Well, no fault codes for it - the only code pulled up this morning was for knock sensor cylinders 3-4, however im not convinced the shuddering is caused by this fault, as if knock is detected, the power should be down, but smoothed out. The engine sounds like an old school rs turbo legacy with a 3' exhaust when it shudders/hesitates, which leads me to believe its something to do with exhaust timing, or a lack of fuel. this seems to occur more often after stop/start auckland m'way traffic, and then disappears when the flow of traffic is smoother. I really wish I could get the live data read whilst driving, but chances are the car will behave normaly when trying to reproduce the fault!

With my lack of basic knowledge when it comes to engines I'd probably take it to someone like Glenn or to Ross at BM Workshop and get them to drive it and try and reproduce the issue. It may be something they've come across before but really hard to diagnose without driving I'd imagine.

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just a guess....

but when I was investigating my issue I read through several posts where they experienced similar problems and it was either the fuel pump, relay or a wiring issue with the pump.

I read enough that if my issue wasn't the 02 & MAF sensors I was going to look at the fuel pump next.

I think you might be on the right track.

my2c

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I'll be throwing a few 'guesses' at it soon. I have a new fuel filter, new MAF's and new pre-cat oxy sensors arriving. these were ordered for preventative maintenance. Gut feel tells me fuel related. When I had the car apart to do the valve cover gaskets, and thermostat I had the batt. disconnected for about 3weeks. When i re-connected the batt, and fired her up without the inlet mani installed, mafs etc it took 3 starts to get her running. I did this as i could check for water leaks easier with the inlet mani off after replacing the o-rings on the thermo. housing. I did go to see Glenn about 2 weeks after, and there were stored fault codes for :

Fuel pump relay, knock sensor cyl 3&4, and ign. coils cyl 1&2. Since clearing those faults, and going back to Glenn for a scan, I got re-ocurring codes of : knock sensor cyl 3&4, fuel pump relay. Cleared the codes again, and now the only re-occuring one is Knock sensor cyl 3&4.

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my moneys on the fuel pump relay.

knock sensors can be triggered with inconsistent fuel pressure to the injectors.

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Any ideas on where it's located? I don't seem to have a large Black relay behind the boot trim cover on the right side. This is where they are in the US spec cars according to m5board.

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Mine is a bit different from that diagram. I have 3 minty green coloured relays, the fuel pump relay is the 1st one to the left of the row of 3. I hate just throwing money at problems I can't get to the root cause of, but i figure a spare relay can't hurt. have now replaced the relay and will see if the problem comes back.

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Mine is a bit different from that diagram. I have 3 minty green coloured relays, the fuel pump relay is the 1st one to the left of the row of 3. I hate just throwing money at problems I can't get to the root cause of, but i figure a spare relay can't hurt. have now replaced the relay and will see if the problem comes back.

Fingers crossed.

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if its doing it in sitting traffic it could be crank angle sensors or coils etc

many of these things seem to affected by heat so the lack of airflow might push the temps up.

though you would expect codes from them

i would do your maintenance first and see if it disappears

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Gorgeous. Love to see a mistreated car restored to former glory. Any news in regards to the fuel pump relay?

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