m325i 705 Report post Posted July 10, 2013 Yo, I have had 2 respected garages unable to fix my issue, and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas? - Car stalls when cold, but only when really cold, (like over night) - Doesn't stall right away - drive up my drive and stop and its OK. But then at the end of the street the revs will drop and it will stall. - After maybe 2 minutes (and still in the blue cold zone) it will be OK. Its a really narrow zone that this happens in. Happens like clock work though. - No stalls when cold started when leaving work in the evening. (If I didn't have to stop for 500m when leaving my house, I would never even know its an issue) Tried new air flow meter. Been suggest its because of a pod filter (really? no one else seems to have this issue) I understand its hard for a garage as you can only repeat the issue once a day in that narrow window. Any suggestions? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3568 Report post Posted July 10, 2013 Have you tried taking a different road to work? Haha but seriously, if you had the car parked say further away from home so you didn't have to drive to that "end of your road" area, would it make any difference? Does it only do it when it's super cold? Have you checked your engine oil grade? Maybe your oil is too thick and just can't heat up fast enough due to the coldness overnight. The temperature will be much lower overnight compared to later that evening despite the car not being driven Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 705 Report post Posted July 10, 2013 Yeah its only from 'stone cold' it happens, (but will start and idle fine, only stall after 30 seconds of driving). Had multiple oil changes since having the issue, (by garages we all know on here). Been living with this for a while as it is a minor annoyance, but if I was looking to sell I would want it sorted. Idle is rock solid perfect outside this narrow window. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1261 Report post Posted July 10, 2013 vac leaks , faulty intermitant cam or crank sensor. insulation breaks down inside the plug . have you had it scanned yet?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 705 Report post Posted July 10, 2013 Yeah nothing in the scan apparently. What do you suggest? Just bring it in to check all that stuff? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted July 10, 2013 Does it star back up stright away, or does it take some cranking? Does it sound normal while cranking? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 705 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 Actually if you try and start straight away it sounds like it is struggling but does start. Wait 5 seconds and it turns over normally Are you on to something here Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cab 148 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 Air connection to your IAC valve / Clean your air intake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 Actually if you try and start straight away it sounds like it is struggling but does start. Wait 5 seconds and it turns over normally Are you on to something here Not onto something - just thinking It really could be SO many things! I wonder about Vanos, but that usually affects the M54B30 the worst at cold idle - people report they start to run a bit rough, then can stall all by themselves. Has the Vanos had new seals? Does it run rough, then stall, or just stop dead. Is it the instant you let your foot off the gas, or does it idle for a bit first? When you say it struggles to start, does in not wind over properly, or does it miss and fart and have trouble getting going, unless you wait abit??? Weird things I've had similar involve oil pressure and hydraulic lifters, and Vanos could be affected by cold/thick oil. I had a suabru where I could drive home, leave it to cool down, start it for 20 or 30 seconds, turn it off then leave it over night. Next morning, I'd start it fine, drive to the end of my road and it would stall. It wouldn' start unless I held my foot down and cranked and cranked it, and it had no compression initially - just woulnd over like all valves were open - the hydraulic lifters would pressurize up and stop the valves closing completely - I could make it happen like clockwork! If I didn't do the 20 second run, it would never do it. It could be something Vanos related, where the cam isn't returned to the correct angle in time or similar - once it's warmed a tiny bit more, it's not an issue??? Also, the IAC valve as mentioned above, could be more sticky when cold - they can have oil residue in them that softens with heat - if they are sticky, the ECU can overdrive them to close, and it closes too much, but it can't pull it back in time. Not a bad thing to clean out anyway - they can cause issues! It's probably only something you can discover by watching real time data though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lukeprusher 13 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 It could be a clog in the air intakes and also check the PCV valve. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*rUstY_nUts* 9 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 It could be a clog in the air intakes and also check the PCV valve. What is a "clog" and how do you check a PCV valve ? What is a PCV valve ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lukeprusher 13 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) What is a "clog" and how do you check a PCV valve ? What is a PCV valve ? clog could be dirt or dust or anything thst can cause a blockage, and a pcv valve is a positive crankcase ventilation valve, you normally need it to be changed around 100 000kms or less in different circumstances. and to check a pcv valve remove from valve case then place thumb or finger over open end of hose and you should get a suction. and also you could clean in in carbonater cleanee Edited July 11, 2013 by Luke Prusher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 clog could be dirt or dust or anything thst can cause a blockage, and a pcv valve is a positive crankcase ventilation valve, you normally need it to be changed around 100 000kms or less in different circumstances. and to check a pcv valve remove from valve case then place thumb or finger over open end of hose and you should get a suction. and also you could clean in in carbonater cleanee What a load of rubbish. It amazes me the number of new experts we now have on this forum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lukeprusher 13 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) What a load of rubbish. It amazes me the number of new experts we now have on this forum actually its not, happened to my e46, and got a new pcv valve and it solved the problem. cause if the pcv valve is stuck open or pcv pipe leaking can cause this. Edited July 11, 2013 by Luke Prusher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 actually its not, happened to my e46, and got a new pcv valve and it solved the problem. Yes it is ..the OP has a 328i you have a 318i... different ball game Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) What is a "clog" and how do you check a PCV valve ? What is a PCV valve ? http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=263731 I don't think a PCV valve would cause the kind of issues stated. Ring Glenn and have your car booked in. Edited July 11, 2013 by antil33t Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lukeprusher 13 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 (edited) Yes it is ..the OP has a 328i you have a 318i... different ball game sorry glenn i am no expert i was just trying to help him as i used to owned a 1999 328i and had the pcv problem. was only trying to help. Edited July 11, 2013 by Luke Prusher Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 sorry glenn i am no expert i was just trying to help him as i used to own a 1999 328i and had the pcv problem. was only trying to help. I understand that. The problem we are having on this forum is 15-20 year old experts giving misinformation and the wrong advise, which could cause grief for people taking their word as being a professional. I'm sick of arguing on here and just watch out so I can help if the wrong information is given. If people want help you can contact me direct. But I'm here most days and will try and help and give the right advice where needed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 705 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 I wonder about VanosVanos seals have been done. It runs 100% mint apart from thisDoes it run rough, then stall, or just stop dead. Is it the instant you let your foot off the gas, or does it idle for a bit first? Runs fine when started. Drive to end of drive, clutch in = fine. Drive a little bit, and if you clutch in and coast, revs will drop to idle and die. While in gear and driving its fine. Some times it 'struggles' at 100rpm and survives. If if survives the first struggle its fine from there. (It feels like its either slightly too cold or slightly too warm to die - there is a narrow 'cold' zone only when it does this). When you say it struggles to start, does in not wind over properly, or does it miss and fart and have trouble getting going, unless you wait abit???If you restart straight away its like a pained 'eeeeeee', wait 5 seconds and its the normal 'eee eee eee eee'.No popping or miss fires or anything. Weird things I've had similar involve oil pressure and hydraulic lifters, and Vanos could be affected by cold/thick oil.Should be 'oem' grade oilIt could be something Vanos related, where the cam isn't returned to the correct angle in time or similar - once it's warmed a tiny bit more, it's not an issue???Yip...It's probably only something you can discover by watching real time data though.This is the problem. You can only reproduce every 24 hours and it will do it once maybe twice if you are lucky. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
elmarco 56 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 To me it sounds like it is running rich & potentially fouling plugs. The 30 secs may be where it's just coming off choke. Could be something like a duff temperature sensor or sticky butterfly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1051 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 Is it factory manual, or converted? I didn't mean the oil is too thick, just that most oils are about 10 times thicker cold, than hot and can do funny things in the right situations. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave@nz 11 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 Hi, I also suspect running richer than normal for cold start up may be the problem, if this is the case first thing to test or replace would be the water thermo sensor for the computer. Testing when fully cold would be the answer, may be remove and put in the fridge for a few hours then test with the ohm meter not sure what it the reading should be, a google search should provide some info. If it is running rich and stalling when cold hard starting and rough running straight after stall would be normal for this kind of problem, from your description of restarting sound the same. Dave. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nath 129 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 Tough problem! Sounds like the sort that I usually have to deal with, usually cold starting related. When I had a problem once which was coolant temp sensor related, there was no time lapse involved, it was simply starting lean and I had to keep some pedal on until i was up and running. As an indication of how time lapse and temp affect parts, I had starter solenoid probs on my 318iS. It would engage first time in the morning, yet had enough heat for thermal expansion(day time maybe 20 degrees) after work that something was binding/sticking and it would not start. As suggested, resistance test the cold start coolant sensor through the range. Make sure it is the temp sensor which affects fuel trim. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 705 Report post Posted July 11, 2013 It is converted to manual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
m325i 705 Report post Posted July 17, 2013 Update: So I have had a scan and cam shaft sensor has come up. While I will get this attended to, do you think it is the cause of the stalling issue? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
