E46 320d Touring - life with a high mileage car

[gjm 3258]

A little background: I drive from just outside Clevedon (east of Papakura, south of Auckland) to work in Hamilton. Around 120km each way, so we'd been looking for an economical, practical, reliable and yet potentially fun to drive car, for as little money as possible. I was almost resigned to a Peugeot 406HDi when I was told about a friend of a friend who knew someone who was selling something like this:

It is the high-mileage (very nearly 225,000 miles, 360,000km) ex-UK 320d Touring in Topaz Blue (Topasblau) Metallic that was listed on TradeMe - it looks very much like the one shown above, with the obvious exception of having the steering wheel on the right... Interior is an Anthracite Jacqaurd cloth which looks pretty good without rips, tears or holes.

(Curious how the steering wheel is in the right place in this pic, from the same source.)

The seller is a really nice guy, very helpful. There is a whole heap of history with it, including many invoices for work carried out at UK BMW franchised dealers before expatriation. WoF expires in April next year.

As far as I can tell, very little if anything by way of modification has been done. Standard wheels are still fitted, for example, and there are no 'extra' holes in the dash or any interior panels. It does have a towbar, which according to an NZ receipt was a custom fit.

It drives well, doesn't smoke, and is currently returning just over 62mpg (about 4.5 litres per 100km, or 22km per litre) on my commute. The economy was a major consideration, so these numbers are a Very Good Thing.

There are some marks on the paintwork but nothing significant. No obvious major repairs, no sign of any crash damage.

The interior is a bit grubby but not terribly so. Nothing to write home about.

There are some unknowns, such as the status of swirl flaps. In the maintenance forum I mentioned that one of the NZ invoices details glow plug replacement, and comments on one of the inlet flaps being missing.

In the interests of ensuring I'd not missed anything significant, I took it to a BMW specialist for a PPI - post purchase inspection. I used Greg Hantz Autos in Hamilton who have the huge advantage of being about 5 minutes walk from work, so very convenient. Nice bloke, seems to know what he is talking about.

The results:

• Needs new rear pads and discs
• Engine oil level sender (the yellow oil can occasionally displays on the dash)
• r/f window regulator noisy: the window is very slow to wind up
• A/c belt is cracked (it is a 4PK-968; I'll try a belt wholesaler)
• r/f door check strap not working: the door doesn't stay open
• Original battery fitted
• l/r tyre worn almost to limit
• Front brake hoses beginning to crack
• Undertray held with cable ties (isn't that normal for a 10+ year old car, assuming it still has an undertray? )
• rear diff bush beginning to perish
• transmission oil leak (appears to be from sump)
• slight damage to l/f bumper support (probably caused by a steep kerb or similar impact)
• oil leakage noted in r/f intercooler pipe

Couple of fault codes cleared:

• exhaust gas recirculation (do I need the EGR?)
• rail-pressure monitoring on engine start

Most of this I had identified (except hoses and diff bush) and I plan to change the ATF ASAP. I also noticed the centre console sliding cover is broken (might be p/n 51167039184), and there is a smooth noise from either a rear wheel bearing, or from the diff.

All in all, a good result.

I've bought 2 litres of Castrol 75W-90 full synthetic gear oil for the diff (it needs about 1.1 litres), and visited the local BMW franchise to get a couple of washers for the diff fill and drain plugs. While there, I picked up a new oil separator (vortex type), set of manifold gaskets, and a dealer-only service kit (fuel filter, air filter, micro filter and oil filter). Very helpful (as you'd hope, but is so often not the case) and gave me a good discount. I'm sure there could be some savings by shopping around, but having the items quickly was the aim. And, of course, there are no postage costs involved.

And so, tomorrow is Saturday. I have diff oil, and will replace that first. And remove/refit the inlet manifold to see what is (or isn't) in there. Is it possible that the swirl flaps were removed, but no blanking plates fitted?

I need to check the gearbox to find which filter/sump gasket I need as there appear (according to RealOEM) to be two types, possibly differentiating between the A5S360R and A5S390R GM transmissions. Regardless, I think BMW has ceased production of 'their' ATF and that Dexron VI should be used - I was thinking of using Penrite ATF DX-VI Full Synthetic.

Other servicing will follow. Engine oil, brake fluid flush (when I change the rear discs and pads, and front hoses), power steering fluid flush (can I use the DX-VI for that, too?), and working my way through the list above.

I'll probably look for a good part-worn tyre to replace the worn one to begin with. Curious as to why one tyre should be worn... Alignment? Anyway, I may look at fitting 17" rims later and get a full suspension alignment done at that time. Or when I put new tyres on all 4 rims.

Driving... Steering seems perhaps a tiny bit 'notchy' around straight ahead, but given the car has done 32000km per year, it has probably spent a lot of time on a motorway. It's really not an issue, and I only mention it because I'm struggling to find fault.

Sometimes it seems to fidget a little when on the road. Road surface issues, or alignment? One, the other, or both? I'll find out in due course.

The transmission fluid needs changing and so might the gearbox thermostat - it's a bit sluggish off the line, and there can sometimes be a slight rise in engine revs without any appreciable increase in rate of forward motion.

Under harder acceleration, there is a sound from the engine that in a petrol car I would attribute to pinking or pre-ignition. In a diesel...? Dunno. It's not what I would describe as a usual diesel 'knock'. Hopefully it isn't a swirl flap, flapping!

Lots of maintenance has been done, including replacement of the engine thermostat, lower front arms and so on. I suspect oil changes haven't been frequent enough (for me) and have been done according to the oil change indicator. That'll change. The indicator shows around 10000 miles and I think they typically start at around 20000, so it's probably already overdue (in my opinion). I'm thinking of using Penrite Enviro+ 5W40, a BMW LL04 compliant fully-synthetic. 5.5 liters... Do manufacturers deliberately require a tiny bit more oil than you can buy in one container?

So a bit of servicing, a wash and interior shampoo, and let's see how we get on!

Any thoughts and advice would be very welcome. It's our first E46.

Cheers,

Graham

[lord_jagganath 421]

Highway Road surfaces in NZ can talk back quite a bit and is slightly banked too. try driving through the newly built up areas in Takanini/papakura and see if it is jittery.

Checking the alignment will be a good idea, I find it strange that the left rear tyre should wear significantly without alignment issues.

[BM WORLD 1283]

^{well done}

^{it should serve you well}

^{you should call into my warehouse some day}

^{i am in papakura}

^{BM WORLD LTD}

^{i recently dismantled a nz new 2000 320d}

^{but also have new and used parts from other models etc}

^{cheers brent}

^021433600

[gjm 3258]

Highway Road surfaces in NZ can talk back quite a bit and is slightly banked too. try driving through the newly built up areas in Takanini/papakura and see if it is jittery.

Checking the alignment will be a good idea, I find it strange that the left rear tyre should wear significantly without alignment issues.

I've not been through the area in the E46 yet - tomorrow, perhaps. May see if I can find Brent, too.

[Phil-540i 166]

Awesome write up!! Keep them coming as life / kms progress on it ae.........that's impressive mileage, & mpg...........

[elmarco 56]

You may also find the front tyres are contributors to the fidgety front end - worn or cheap tyres are possible suspects. The other place for new spares is Milland - think my rear rotors, pads & sensor for the 330 were around $400 all up for an OEM brand (ATE from memory). Do your oil level sensor at the same time as the next oil change (you need the sump empty). The other thing to get onto fast would be the engine oil leak - you dont want to hurt a turbo...

Good luck!

[gjm 3258]

I really want to change the engine oil this weekend as I suspect that by my personal reckoning, it's overdue. The computer says otherwise, but...

And I don't have the oil level sensor yet. Can a failing sender cause any other problems?

Here's to hoping it stops raining, and I have a chance to get under the car tomorrow.

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Good forecast for this weekend Besides which, if you do the service tomorrow, it'll be a good chance for all the sludge to be picked up by the new oil. Which in turn gives you valid reason to give it another oil change when the sensor arrives

P.S - computers are not to be trusted!

[gjm 3258]

Good forecast for this weekend Besides which, if you do the service tomorrow, it'll be a good chance for all the sludge to be picked up by the new oil. Which in turn gives you valid reason to give it another oil change when the sensor arrives

P.S - computers are not to be trusted!

I saw some mention of sunshine... We'll see. It's raining here at the moment. (But fingers crossed for a change.)

I don't trust either the service computer, or the economy one, but it's taking so long to get through a tank of fuel I've had no chance to see how accurate it is! But yes - the oil may not be cheap, but it is cheaper than the alternative.

Incidentally, the PO appears to have been using Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60.

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Nice to see a higher mileage car with a reasonably definitive service history, they're pretty hard to find in little old Noo Zild.

Looks like you've found a good 'un, had you not pounced there was a chance I could have talked wifey into having a look this weekend

Even if machines aren't trustworthy, 4.6l / 100 makes for some bragging rights

[gjm 3258]

Nice to see a higher mileage car with a reasonably definitive service history, they're pretty hard to find in little old Noo Zild.

Looks like you've found a good 'un, had you not pounced there was a chance I could have talked wifey into having a look this weekend

Even if machines aren't trustworthy, 4.6l / 100 makes for some bragging rights

I wonder what it would do if I tried driving economically!

Doing a longer trip at constant speeds, as I am, makes an enormous difference.

Edited November 8, 2013 by gjm

[lord_jagganath 421]

I'd say the computer is fairly accurate plus/minus 1litre per 100kms. My new OBC gives me exactly what I expect. even tells me i have 70kms to go on the reserve volume (which is about 9-8 litres when the light comes on)

[Phil-540i 166]

Have you put GPS speed vs speedo speed?? Theres a big difference sometimes, which also affects OBC figures - theres no doubt in my mind the diesel is really economical though. Nice that its on Castrol - I've had an awesome run from Castrol products over the years, in everything I own - their motorbike oils rock too IMO.........

[gjm 3258]

Have you put GPS speed vs speedo speed?? Theres a big difference sometimes, which also affects OBC figures - theres no doubt in my mind the diesel is really economical though. Nice that its on Castrol - I've had an awesome run from Castrol products over the years, in everything I own - their motorbike oils rock too IMO.........

Mmm... I love the smell of Castrol R in the morning!

I bought the Penrite engine oil today. Got a reasonable deal on 2x5 litres (needs 5.5 ) but I've had good experience with Penrite before. It's good oil so I'll see how it goes. I can always change back to Castrol later.

As it is a UK import, I did check the speedo against my phone (which may not be that accurate, either). It's pretty close... 65mph, or 104km/h, showed as 101-103km/h on my phone. Hardly a scientific test, of course.

Vaguely related to the speedo accuracy, I got looking at tyres earlier. (Bear with me!) One (on the car) does need replacing soon, and another will follow fairly soon. Two tyres. Buy good ones... Easy $200+. Hmm. Maybe I should consider those 17" rims a little sooner? 225/45-17s are a tiny bit larger in rolling diameter, which should mean the speedo is more accurate than at present.

At least, that's the justification I'll use to Mrs M.

[kiwi535 538]

4.5l 100k is very good....my round town average is 6.5 but that is a bit of stop start and a pretty steep hill every day...my typical open road average is 5.5,but again that always involves hills of some sort.My city running ussually sees me filling up at about 700k for about 40litres,open road its ussually about 900k

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

4.5l 100k is very good....my round town average is 6.5 but that is a bit of stop start and a pretty steep hill every day...my typical open road average is 5.5,but again that always involves hills of some sort.My city running ussually sees me filling up at about 700k for about 40litres,open road its ussually about 900k

lol on an 80 litre tank im spluttering coming down the Auckland side of the bombays.

But i dont smell like Diesel

[kiwi535 538]

lol on an 80 litre tank im spluttering coming down the Auckland side of the bombays.

But i dont smell like Diesel

yes I know Andy ,the diesel is about HALF the consumption of the 535!

[Phil-540i 166]

Maybe I should consider those 17" rims a little sooner? 225/45-17s are a tiny bit larger in rolling diameter, which should mean the speedo is more accurate than at present.

At least, that's the justification I'll use to Mrs M.

Yes, definitely - 17's could be the start of 'pimp my ride'!!! No justification needed, specially given how many km's (opps, my bad - miles) you're doing per day in the poor thing. Once you're getting into the stage of lowering springs etc, you might have to splash out for a new vacuum cleaner or something though too, just to level up the playing field a bit for your other half.......

Reminds me, Xmas is not far away ae.........

[elmarco 56]

Mmm... I love the smell of Castrol R in the morning!

I bought the Penrite engine oil today. Got a reasonable deal on 2x5 litres (needs 5.5 ) but I've had good experience with Penrite before. It's good oil so I'll see how it goes. I can always change back to Castrol later.

You got proper diesel oil for it, right? You cant use regular petrol oil in a diesel.... It needs to have the right additives & detergents to deal with the carbon buildup.

[elmarco 56]

Take a look for some 17s with tyres on trademe. There were some E46 motorsport wheels with tyres on there for $700 ish

[gjm 3258]

Yes, definitely - 17's could be the start of 'pimp my ride'!!! No justification needed, specially given how many km's (opps, my bad - miles) you're doing per day in the poor thing. Once you're getting into the stage of lowering springs etc, you might have to splash out for a new vacuum cleaner or something though too, just to level up the playing field a bit for your other half.......

Reminds me, Xmas is not far away ae.........

New vacuum cleaner? I've got one wife... (I'm so brave when milady isn't looking over my shoulder!)

The lowering/springs/shocks thing is something I've thought about long and hard. Larger diameter rims tend to look odd on a standard height car, but I definitely don't want a slammed in the weeds look. Just something that's 'right', like this:

BBS RN 17x8 et15s.

You got proper diesel oil for it, right? You cant use regular petrol oil in a diesel.... It needs to have the right additives & detergents to deal with the carbon buildup.

Yup - very careful about that. This oil. I get the impression that a lot of diesel oil can be used in petrol engines, but not vice versa. Anyway, this one is BMW Longlife 04 approved.

Take a look for some 17s with tyres on trademe. There were some E46 motorsport wheels with tyres on there for $700 ish

This is where decision time is required. I really like the BBS RNs (above) but they seem expensive (to me). Radials are seemingly easier to find and I like them too, but... Do I like them as much? I saw some "titan grau" RNs in Germany and they looked gorgeous. Would suit the blue paintwork, too.

Why are BMW rims so heavy? At the other end of the scale (please excuse the pun) I bought a set of original Mercedes rims for the W201. These were fitted as standard, out of the factory, to the 1998-2000 CLK320, and weigh under 12lbs each. Yes - 14lbs (p/n 208 401 0002). I kid you not - you can hold one of these, by the edge, at arms length.

Whatever. Any thoughts re RNs vs radial spokes?

[kiwi535 538]

the worn tyre could contribute to the fidgety feeling although not normally an issue with rear tyres.make sure you have identical tyres on each axle,and preferable identical sized tyres (or as specced)ohterwise you can get abs warnings(or tyre pressure)

[gjm 3258]

the worn tyre could contribute to the fidgety feeling although not normally an issue with rear tyres.make sure you have identical tyres on each axle,and preferable identical sized tyres (or as specced)ohterwise you can get abs warnings(or tyre pressure)

Michelin Pilot Sport 3 on the front, same size and load rating on both sides.

Michelin Primacy on the back. Same sizes, but one is a 91V, the other a 91W. Not really an issue.

However, on close inspection they're all a bit sad. One is well worn (tread) but all have some serious marks to the sidewalls. If the sidewalls are weakened, it could contribute to the fidgeting I'm experiencing.

Oh dear... Does this mean I need to bring forward the potential larger rim purchase?

[gjm 3258]

Not quite the magnificent weekend of achievement I'd hoped for, but I have done some stuff.

Replaced the intake air filter.

I think we can agree that was a job that needed doing.

Also replaced the cabin air filter which provided a very similar comparison.

Replaced the oil separator. Probably didn't need doing as it was running the later 'vortex' type, but I now know it'll be good for quite some time. I think these can actually be cleaned, anyway.

Sadly, that's all the good stuff. Didn't get the inlet manifold off, or the engine oil changed. Haven't got a transmission filter and gasket yet, so that's not sorted either. Did get time for some more swirl-flap related research and it is quite possible the flaps were removed and nothing else done - no blanking plates, no remap.

And I've found that there has been a 'knock' at some stage - the offside front wing is pressed against the leading corner of the bonnet, causing a very slight deformation to the bonnet. The wing looks fine, but close inspection shows the indicator doesn't quite fit properly. More investigation needed.

Other than that, all good. Must get the drivers' door check strap sorted as the door has tried to bite me a couple of times today.

And we've just passed 640km on this tank of fuel, with an easy 300km, possibly 400km, to go before fill up (depending on how I drive). Less economical than planned, but it was warm and we've been using the aircon pretty much full-time. The aim is to get 1000km between fill-ups.

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Hang on.... you've done 640km already & the OBC tells you there's at least 300km before the next fill? And you're disappointed??

#firstworldproblems