M5V8 337 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 how's the car going ray? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Cars at home (Yay) still not 100% but SO SO much better. As per the usual, Ray was great and it is so much smoother, idles perfect and not being stupid. His advice and directions were spot on and no longer have a stalling car, success!! OBC still a bit funny, and got a fault code up on that, and its running a little hot, so plan of action is Radiator Flush and see if that gets it running better (was running about 110degrees with no change) and pop in a different General Module unit for the OBC Will get there, just a small bit of work each time, and Im enjoying the learning curve its bringing with it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 These engines do run hot. More likely to be thermostat, I would have thought. My 540 was running hotter than yours when I got it (as high as 117°) and since replacing the thermostat it's been static around the 96-97° mark. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M5V8 337 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 fantastic news Amber. Ray you legend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr2low 57 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 (edited) That's good, when doing your radiator flush redline make a product called water wetter should check it out, mainly designed for race cars to reduce coolant temps but will also make the coolant more efficient Edited February 19, 2014 by Mr2low Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 These engines do run hot. More likely to be thermostat, I would have thought. My 540 was running hotter than yours when I got it (as high as 117°) and since replacing the thermostat it's been static around the 96-97° mark. Radiator is a bit gunky, looks to have possibly had an additive added in... So a flush will do it good, and pretty much doing all test and trials on everything so far, so if that doesn't help, move onto the next thing that could affect it. So far it's been a good plan of action Will keep that in mind though, thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 If the radiator hasnt beem changed its worth replacing. Mine looked fine no sign of aging then boom it blew. I was the same as jeffbebe. Average running temp was 112,c. Got new stat now runs at 93. 45 mins of solid racing at taupo and it got to 110 and stayed there. Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Driftit 2078 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Missed this post. But just going back to towing with E39's. Have towed my race car all over the north island many times. 97 E39 540i with factory tow bar towing a single axle braked trailer. Plenty of power. But as said by Milan. Trans will overheat. Especially in traffic. Mine pretty much boiled when stuck in traffic on the motorway. Had to replace the fluid. If you are towing with a single axle you must get the balance of the tow bar right. About 70-90kgs on the tongue. Any more and the car will drag its ass and flog out all the rear bushes pretty quickly. Twin axle trailers are best of course. Where the tow bar mounts in the chassis rails of the E39 you may find it starts to stretch the metal around the bolts. This can get quite bad if towing heavy hire trailers with your car on the back. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Missed this post. But just going back to towing with E39's. Have towed my race car all over the north island many times. 97 E39 540i with factory tow bar towing a single axle braked trailer. Plenty of power. But as said by Milan. Trans will overheat. Especially in traffic. Mine pretty much boiled when stuck in traffic on the motorway. Had to replace the fluid. If you are towing with a single axle you must get the balance of the tow bar right. About 70-90kgs on the tongue. Any more and the car will drag its ass and flog out all the rear bushes pretty quickly. Twin axle trailers are best of course. Where the tow bar mounts in the chassis rails of the E39 you may find it starts to stretch the metal around the bolts. This can get quite bad if towing heavy hire trailers with your car on the back. Cheers for that, It is a double axle trailer, and due to the fact I am transporting living animals (horses) I won't be driving at peak our/traffic or hectically fast, more in the 'Nana' style of things. At this stage the weight won't go over 1200kg as I am just towing one horse around. Best suggested idea for preventing trans heating up quite badly? Mine is so far running at a good temp On that note, I won't be towing anything until I have my cooling system sorted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 If the radiator hasnt beem changed its worth replacing. Mine looked fine no sign of aging then boom it blew. I was the same as jeffbebe. Average running temp was 112,c. Got new stat now runs at 93. 45 mins of solid racing at taupo and it got to 110 and stayed there. Sent from my GT-I8160L using Tapatalk 2 Any idea on cost of New radiator? Plenty of prices around, but not in Nz. Just want to pop it into my Bmw Budget Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lord_jagganath 421 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Trans cooler, new radiator. Radiator should be around 400? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Trans cooler, new radiator. Radiator should be around 400? Figured, prices I were looking at in USA were around $400+ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1043 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 On the m62 engines (and later models) Datamap thermostat standard operating temps are 80-110c. The car will run normally at 110c in which the DME will retard the timing and run hotter for efficiency. When you start getting more aggressive on the accelerator it will open the thermostat and drop to around 80c and advance the timing for more power but less fuel efficiency. There maybe other issues if the standard operating temperature is averaging 115c (EG radiator efficiency due to oxide build up inside the alloy radiator) .. The needle will start moving at 117 and hit red at 123c. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 20, 2014 On the m62 engines (and later models) Datamap thermostat standard operating temps are 80-110c. The car will run normally at 110c in which the DME will retard the timing and run hotter for efficiency. When you start getting more aggressive on the accelerator it will open the thermostat and drop to around 80c and advance the timing for more power but less fuel efficiency. There maybe other issues if the standard operating temperature is averaging 115c (EG radiator efficiency due to oxide build up inside the alloy radiator) .. The needle will start moving at 117 and hit red at 123c. Thanks for that, good to have further insight. I'm a paranoid soul, so like the thought of her running cooler than warmer lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aja540i 1906 Report post Posted February 20, 2014 I did my radiator last year and from memory it was just over 300 for an aftermarket radiator from Silverdale radiators. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MISS BM 712 Report post Posted February 20, 2014 I did my radiator last year and from memory it was just over 300 for an aftermarket radiator from Silverdale radiators. Cheers, That's a bit cheaper! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
