Eddie 66 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 Nice write up Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 600 Report post Posted June 10, 2014 Very nice and informative! Will be having a good read again if I ever have a chance to do mine haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Fully reassembled car, fixed leaking radiator hose (clamp wasnt tight enough and hose was slightly out of place) put about 30KM on it tonight and everything is working well, and drives well. Hard to tell if its any more powerful/faster, but its not slow, not at all. Finally, vanos rebuild, complete. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish 30 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Wow! You've done an amazing job! I dont want to be a pain in the butt, but would you be able to list all the parts that I would need to do this full rebuild to my vanos... No rush, just whenever you'll have time. It would be appreciated a lot! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 11, 2014 Parts used during my vanos rebuild. This is for my car, some parts may vary so please check via RealOEM or your dealer to be sure. Beisan Systems seal kit BS031 Beisan Systems Anti-rattle kit BS032 Beisan System Anti-rattle tools BS094 The following parts are from BMW Vanos solenoid O-Rings (S62, improved design over S52 and direct replacement) 11367830828 x2 11367830829 x2 Vanos filter 11361401973 07119963073 Vanos solenoid cover gasket 11311318323 Vanos cover bolts 07129905121 x4 Vanos intake piston nut 11361313170 Valve cover gasket 11121404358 11121317386 x2 Oil cap 11121716993 And the bolts i had to replace due to rounded heads (hopefully wont be needed by anyone else) 07129903807 (bolts) 07119931044 (washers) Be aware most parts are Ex Germany (all Beisan parts are Ex USA), so order them beforehand. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 (edited) Parts used during my vanos rebuild. This is for my car, some parts may vary so please check via RealOEM or your dealer to be sure. Beisan Systems seal kit BS031 Beisan Systems Anti-rattle kit BS032 Beisan System Anti-rattle tools BS094 The following parts are from BMW Vanos solenoid O-Rings (S62, improved design over S52 and direct replacement) 11367830828 x2 11367830829 x2 Vanos filter 11361401973 07119963073 Vanos solenoid cover gasket 11311318323 Vanos cover bolts 07129905121 x4 Vanos intake piston nut 11361313170 Valve cover gasket 11121404358 11121317386 x2 Oil cap 11121716993 And the bolts i had to replace due to rounded heads (hopefully wont be needed by anyone else) 07129903807 (bolts) 07119931044 (washers) Be aware most parts are Ex Germany (all Beisan parts are Ex USA), so order them beforehand. So i've decided to get Kayne Barrie and his new Ex Bella tech to do my Vanos refresh. I need to order the bits in. Can i assume i need everything you ordered above, except for the oil cap and rounded bolts? Edited June 12, 2014 by Beeker2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Thats what i used, and as your car is very close in production date to mine i would say it should be, but as above, check with RealOEM or a dealer to be sure (dont want you to order the wrong bits!). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Thats what i used, and as your car is very close in production date to mine i would say it should be, but as above, check with RealOEM or a dealer to be sure (dont want you to order the wrong bits!). Except for the O rings (recommended change), realoem says the same PN list as yours. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Use the O-rings i have listed, they are the better, updated ones from the S62. Stripping the top end isnt a easy as just taking the cams out and scrubbing them. Would require removing timing chain etc, not worth the effort for what it is. It will not get worse, as im using quality oil, always hot running and short change intervals. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
swordfish 30 Report post Posted June 12, 2014 Parts used during my vanos rebuild. This is for my car, some parts may vary so please check via RealOEM or your dealer to be sure. Beisan Systems seal kit BS031 Beisan Systems Anti-rattle kit BS032 Beisan System Anti-rattle tools BS094 The following parts are from BMW Vanos solenoid O-Rings (S62, improved design over S52 and direct replacement) 11367830828 x2 11367830829 x2 Vanos filter 11361401973 07119963073 Vanos solenoid cover gasket 11311318323 Vanos cover bolts 07129905121 x4 Vanos intake piston nut 11361313170 Valve cover gasket 11121404358 11121317386 x2 Oil cap 11121716993 And the bolts i had to replace due to rounded heads (hopefully wont be needed by anyone else) 07129903807 (bolts) 07119931044 (washers) Be aware most parts are Ex Germany (all Beisan parts are Ex USA), so order them beforehand. Legend!!! Thank you very much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 Went on the Dyno today. Engine ran very well and made a number i am SUPER happy with. 179KW. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 Made some sweet noises too 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 Took some new photos of her whilst out and about. DSC06130 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06132 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06133 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06134 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06170 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06171 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06172 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06173 by KwS09, on Flickr 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 yeah, it hits 181KW. Not sure why it doesnt register, but hey, 179KW is sweet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 yeah, it hits 181KW. Not sure why it doesnt register, but hey, 179KW is sweet. ~180wkw is good. Mine did 172wkw (torque dyno), but was overdue for a service and has a tired vanos. Nastas did 178wkw after his vanos service (not sure who's dyno) I'll dyno mine again after my vanos refresh (prepping now for this). Have you checked you valve clearances? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 Ill bet they are due. No service history for it. Will check with BMW for costs when i can be bothered. Not making any bad noises so might just leave it for now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dave@nz 11 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) Hi, I did notice how much carbon in the top end there was and around all the orings etc, have you thought about changing to diesel oils and changing oil every 1000km until basically clean oil draining out then move to 5k changes. There are some really good diesel oils with plenty of options on brands and grades now. Dave. Edited June 14, 2014 by 87M3@NZ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Beeker2 69 Report post Posted June 14, 2014 Ill bet they are due. No service history for it. Will check with BMW for costs when i can be bothered. Not making any bad noises so might just leave it for now. I'm told there is a specialist tool required to change the shims, and of course you need a variety of spare shims to tune the clearance. In auckland Jerry Clayton have both but are quoting 5>8 hours ! Assuming adjustment needed. What I don't understand is the benefits. I assume some power gains are available if it's out, but what's typical here? Is there other benefits ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 15, 2014 Hi, I did notice how much carbon in the top end there was and around all the orings etc, have you thought about changing to diesel oils and changing oil every 1000km until basically clean oil draining out then move to 5k changes. There are some really good diesel oils with plenty of options on brands and grades now. Dave. Hi, thanks for the advice but ill stick what what im running. Its pretty well baked on and unlikely to come off with anything short of soaking in brake clean (as i experienced when cleaning the vanos parts). The oil im running wont add to the baked on crap, and hopefully the hot running and regularly changes will slowly clean it away. I wont risk running anything but high quality synthetic oil in the engine. The baked on oil isnt doing any harm, just looks a bit meh when the cover is off. In terms of the valve shims, i imagine its like any other valve clearance adjustments, on any other car. If they are out of whack then power and economy can tank, but will usually be accompanied by rattling. Mine doesnt rattle/chatter and runs like a champ. If i was to do it (unlikely for now) than id get BMW to do it as its not something im comfortable doing in my garage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 600 Report post Posted June 15, 2014 I'm told there is a specialist tool required to change the shims, and of course you need a variety of spare shims to tune the clearance. In auckland Jerry Clayton have both but are quoting 5>8 hours ! Assuming adjustment needed. What I don't understand is the benefits. I assume some power gains are available if it's out, but what's typical here? Is there other benefits ? I did my ones myself, probably took about that to do them. I was trying to find the tool but couldn't so just used a big flat screwdriver and a magnet measured the clearances first, took them all out, measured shim think ness and swapped around what I could to meet correct clearances then had to order about 10 new ones. Are ment to be checked every 10,000km Kms. I wouldn't imagine there will be much or any preformance gain from having the valve open an extra .5 of a mill but will quieten the top end up and maybe run abit smoother. Did on mine anyway Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted June 22, 2014 Despite the car being half heartedly for sale, im still working on it. Todays task was to finally fit the little bitch of an anti-rattle clip. Started with this, Did this, and instantly failed the intelligence test >_< and finally resorted to installing it correctly. I also degreased the only spot in the engine bay where there was oil, down the side of the engine where the old leaking oil cap had made a mess. New cap is holding oil in mint. No pics though as it wasnt easy to see in the first place, just makes me happier knowing its not so oily now. Went for a hoon, and yay for no chatter chatter rattle rattle going over bumps now. Finally. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted July 27, 2014 Update time. Been putting the KM on this on the weekends, covered over 2000KM since purchase now. Vanos has about 1000KM on it, still getting better as it wears in. Decided today that ill proceed, albeit slowly, with my original plan for the car whilst still having it advertised for sale. I wont be dropping the price, and any offers will need to be close to my asking price. First step was to clean the steering wheel, and look replace the bulbs for the climate control panel and the headlight switch. This is what i started with. Hard, glossy, and slippery. The tri-colour ///M stitching is grey. Grabbed some Lux flakes AGES ago, so chucked some into a container (a small sprinkle) and filled with hot tap water. Began scrubbing the wheel with a toothbrush, and microfibre cloths, and amazingly it started to come up nicely. Unfortunately there is quite a lot of wear on the top of the wheel, so its kind of pitted. Not torn though which is good. I liked this pic for some reason I also scrubbed the arm rest, which removed some of the sheen and made it feel a bit softer Unfortunately the leather conditioner i used (from way back in the bay when i had my Rover SD1) has left the leather a bit shiny, but im hoping itll either soak in or wear off a bit. There is a massive difference in how the wheel feels now, its softer and nicer to touch. Previously it would leave a "greasy" mark on the leg of my pants, ugh. This is as far as i got with the bulb changing, i removed the headlight switch and panel from the climate control. Removed both bulbs and will match them up to something at work tomorrow, to be fitted after work. The next step will be a new gear knob. Its not really high on the should-be-done list, but im trying to do all the touch points of the car first as that means the most to me when im using it. Ill also be buying all the bits to freshen the shifter linkages up. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted July 28, 2014 Fit a new bulb to the climate control unit after work. It took a 12v 1.2watt wedge bulb. Yay for no more groping blindly around for knobs in the dark. I dont have pics because it was dark, but its pretty simple to do. Pull the four knobs off, undo the two screws behind the large knobs, and gently lever off the face panel (i used s small flathead driver). The bulb is top center and pulls straight out with your fingers. Insert new bulb, turn lights on to test, OK. The reassembly is a prick unless you remove the OBC. Without the face plate on the climate control will freely wobble around and will be impossible to reinstall the face plate. Pop the OBC out (there is a small slot in the top of the cubby below the OBD, stick a finger in there and push forward on the OBC, it should pop out). Once this is out, put your hand up and behind the climate controller and push it forward, whilst pushing the faceplate gently onto it. It should clip into place. BEWARE that there is an exposed fan on the back of the climate unit and may be operating for a few minutes after the ignition is off. The fan is in the middle, so try to avoid it (shouldnt cut you but is uncomfortable). Install two screws again, replace knobs (they are keyed so make sure they go on correctly), and pop OBC back in. Done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2373 Report post Posted July 29, 2014 Issue resolved. Everything is now lit (albeit patchy, as thats how they rolled in the early 90s). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FRT 144 Report post Posted July 29, 2014 Well done, ive done most of the same things on mine reading your post is like deja vu man... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
