DarinD 8 Report post Posted April 13, 2014 Looking good! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tristan 338 Report post Posted April 14, 2014 Looking much better! I drive past this car's old home every day, looks like it's been replaced with a Porsche of some kind (under a cover but looks 911) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 14, 2014 Cayman i think it was. Dont know my Beetles though, so unsure if thats a 911 or not. Must be a hell of car to make him sell the M3 though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Right, so the moment i got home today i decided to carry out some work on the M3. Since i got the car the heater hasnt worked (i knew this when purchased). Neither side changed temp at all, just stuck at cold. I knew this was the heater control valve (HCV), as they are a common failure point as they are easy to block and jam. I purchased some parts from Ray at HellBM, which included a replacement valve. Its not a hard part to get to on the M3, just a bit tight due to the header tank, and there isnt a lot of space to twist and pull the hoses. Its located here (photo taken after a disconnected and moved the loom plug from the side of the header tank, and disconnected the connector from HCV). It doesnt take a rocket surgeon to see something is wrong. I didnt take any photos of removal as its a bit messy, but basically you pull the HCV up and out of its rubber mount, and then remove the hoses. You can then proceed to remove the HCV. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Here is the replacement in place. And the reason the heater didnt work? Its plugged solid. Yum. Anyway, the heater now works amazingly. Quick to heat up on both sides, and hotter than hell. Great Success. Next on the list is the arm rest center console. Thats my friday project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 602 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 God you're not mucking round! Good work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Too darn cold without the heater! Now i can cruise around, heater on, windows down, listening to that lovely exhaust note. Too much win. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2312 Report post Posted April 15, 2014 Good to see an M3 get the TLC it deserves! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 Took the time this evening to chuck the arm rest in. Looks good, feels good, and im still sure its one of the best upgrades you can make to a road going E36. Not many photos, got dark too quickly and it took longer than expected thanks to having issues aligning the bolts. Console removed, Carpet cut, hand brake light switch moved, and frame installed. Not sure what the cables running down the LH side of the center console are. Need to trace them. Guessing itll be something to do with the stereo, but as i dont have a sub in the boot, and the cd changer is in the dash, pass on what itd be for. Super average photo of it completed. You can see the lump of carpet on the passenger seat. The carpet is perforated so its real easy to work out where to cut. Next up is fluids change. Hopefully itll fix some noises and performance issues (vanos noise as oil gets hotter, diff noise at low speed turning, and gearbox notchyness as the oil heats up). Also cant wait for my new gear and handbrake boots to arrive, the old ones are average as. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 (edited) Yeah, im going to do a massive buy up from Pelican parts in the states, including a ZHP knob. Just got to work out the funds (something like $400USD in parts) first. I love arm rests as i usually drive with only the right hand on the wheel, so need somewhere to rest the other between shifts. Most of my previous cars have had them, so i guess im just used to it. Without one i find i tend to play with the hand brake lever.... :-/ Edited April 18, 2014 by KwS 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
handgrenade 189 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 Where did you get the arm rest from?! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 18, 2014 HellBM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 19, 2014 A couple of better pics of the interior with arm rest. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Havent had an update in a few days... So today, was Fresh Fluids Friday!!!!! Started early (about 10am, thats early for a public holiday!), and it took a good 3-4 hours by the time i rolled the car out of the garage. Diff oil, trans oil and engine oil all drained filled and filter changed. Had some small issues, like the bungs on the diff being crazy tight, so much celebration was had when i broke them loose. I also had issues filling the trans, as my suction gun decided it didnt like pumping ATF and stopped working. Thankfully the diff oil bottles were awesome and had spouts, so i filled one with ATF, attached the hose from my suction gun to the spout, and away i went. Trans definitely didnt have ATF in it (despite the huge orange "ATF ONLY" sticker next to the fill hole), and the engine was over filled by about 1.5L. No pics of the work in progress, far too messy (and smelly, ugh diff oil) for that. A few hundred dollars of oil Hovercar. Bilstein and braded lines Front to back Back to front Awesome oil bottle And some fancy bits i had to buy as i needed a 14mm Hex socket for the diff plugs I did note a few things whilst under the car. Firstly, it looks like its being mud bugging before i got it, so much mud coating the underside. Secondly, the cats are gone. Both have been removed and resonators fitted instead. Guess this explains the increased noise over standard. Also noted that both the O2 sensors are completely missing. Pretty common thing to do on the old ones, but not sure why its not throwing a code (no CEL on, and CEL works). Might look at refitting them at some point. In summary, Diff is good now, silent like new. Cant recommend that Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip enough, its good stuff. Gearbox is smoother, but still a little notchy, but its a 20 year old car, so good enough (no grinding, crunching etc). Engine feels a bit freer, and feels more powerful but this is likely just a placebo. Vanos still rattles, so that will need a rebuild to shut it up. Oil temps are lower by about 5-10c (also a common thing going to a lighter weight oil). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1526 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Lucky you got this thing cheap, sounds like the previous owner wasn't giving it the tlc needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2312 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Awesome work! So Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W140 is the way to go for the LSD Diff? Where can one find such a product as I dont think the usual stores stock it. Edited April 25, 2014 by Michael. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) You'd be surprised actually. I have a massive folder of receipts and service history, including regular services. Why the oils were wrong, and over filled, im not sure, but it was regularly changed. Its also had a lot of other work like suspension, bushes, brakes etc. Other than the vanos, there is really nothing that is more than cosmetic. Even then the vanos is just noise (and maybe a little loss of power), and in terms of noise its pretty minor (going from the tube of you videos of noisy vanos's). E: Yes, Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W140 is what BMW specs the plate type LSD for, and its what i have used. Its a great fluid, im impressed already. I think BMW sells it, but repco and BNT dont. I got mine from work, which was Mercedes, as its also used in the latest AMG diffs. Edited April 25, 2014 by KwS 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1526 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Was that from the previous or another one in the past? Usually least 1 owner who hasn't carried the bag Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Both previous owners. Its NZ New, and i think only two owner (now three). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 602 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Awesome work! So Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75W140 is the way to go for the LSD Diff? Where can one find such a product as I dont think the usual stores stock it. I got my stuff from BMW at $30 a litre saf-xj I think wth the friction modifier.Also what oil is that you're using? Why valvoline over recommended castrol 10/60 Edited April 25, 2014 by euroriffic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Used the valvoline on all my past BMWs with no ill effects. You also need to remember that the 10W60 was only recommended for M3s AFTER the E46 came out, and didnt exist when the S50 was in production. The owners handbook doesnt specify a viscosity unless in a harsh climate. There is a huge amount of debate on the interwebs, with no solid answer on which oil is actually good for the S50, but the camps are generally split between 10W60 and 5W40. Its also well documented that in the S50 thicker oils result in higher oil temps, and more top end noise (both of which i have noted are reduced now running 5W40). FYI Castrol SAF-XJ is the old name for Syntrax Limited slip. Its the same stuff. Going from that its cheaper at BMW than Mercedes, and Merc doesnt do bottles bigger than 500mls. Good thing i didnt pay retail. Edited April 25, 2014 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 602 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Pretty sure my owners manual says to use either 10/60 or 5/60. Depending on climate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) The evo manuals are different to the 3.0 ones. The 3.0 only specifies the SAE grade (SG or SN or something). Regardless, im trying this oil, and if i dont like it ill change further down the track. Edited April 25, 2014 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 602 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Turns out it doesn't say that, but has this instead. My top end is abit noisy even after doing valve clearances so might change to /50 and see what happens Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2377 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) huh, strange. That looks the same as the manual i have then. Red M3 on the front? My trawling through the interwebs to find an answer on oil viscosity led me to believe the Evo had a different manual (maybe it was just UK ones). Im sure mine does specify a viscosity for harsh climates under the table. Shall check tomorrow. Its a real pain, i have spent too many hours trying to work out which oil to use. Edited April 25, 2014 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 602 Report post Posted April 25, 2014 Yea it is a bit of a tricky one! And no red m3, my manual is black and white but it looks Dakar yellow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
