Jpclarke89 20 Report post Posted August 3, 2014 That steering wheel clean works a treat. I couldn't find soap flakes at the super so used a bar of soap instead. I didn't even notice mine had "M" colored stitching until I saw this thread because it was so black, now mine looks like yours. Stoked! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 3, 2014 haha good work! The Lux flakes appear to be a bar of soap that got hit with a cheese grater anyway, so normal soap will do the same (just harder to dilute in water i guess). Took the M3 for a drive for the first time since cleaning the wheel, and damn it feels so much nicer and my hands didnt feel grimey when i got out at the end. Its also just nice to sit there and see the bright M stitching in front of you. Cannot recommend cleaning enough if you have an old leather wheel, so good! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jpclarke89 20 Report post Posted August 3, 2014 Yeah I grated it with scissors to the same effect as soap flakes, and only cost me 99c for a bar. Cheapest clean ever! Definitely agree about the grimey wheel beforehand, I struggled turning the wheel with one hand because I'd slip on it. Took it for a drive before and it's grippy as s*** now. Oh how the smallest things cause so much happiness! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLee 35 Report post Posted August 4, 2014 Excellent work with the resto. Looking good.I noticed you had DIS running on an old laptop back there? I was wondering if you'd part with your secret recipe? I've been trying for months now to get INPA or DIS working with my 95 M3, using both a tinyADS and a BMcables interface/cable - to no avail. I've been trying to use the dock serial port on my laptop as it doesn't have a true serial itself - I'm thinking this could be a problem.The most I've got out of the USB interface is to get the windows to go up and down! I imagine there is a reason why you used an old laptop with a dedicated port? Which cable have you used?Any form of answer would provide more ground than I can gain at this stage Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 4, 2014 Its a nightmare, plain and simple. I still havent got INPA working for the DME (can fully access vanos ECU though, inc running tests), and DIS is slow and average at best (but can read and clear codes. Havent worked out how to run tests yet). I had to specifically buy that old laptop for this car, as none of my other machines had a dedicated serial port and apparently that makes ALL the difference. DIS is set up in a windows 7 virtual machine, and im using a TinyADS cable. Ill put up some links that helped me when i get home tonight, but i feel without a dedicated serial port you might be out of luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 4, 2014 These are the links that really helped me to get DIS and INPA running. http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f99/bmw-inpa-success-e39-e46-onwards-t74608/ http://dis.robmw.altervista.org/dis/index.htm http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1297683-How-to-install-DIS-w-EasyDIS-v44-step-by-step Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLee 35 Report post Posted August 5, 2014 There is so much disinformation about this stuff on the internet it simply isn't fun anymore.I'll work through it eventually, I will definitely try running it on a laptop with a real serial port.Good to hear someone had SOME success, cheers for the links - I'll have a good look Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 6, 2014 Yeah, its crazy hard to find information for the 3.0. It seems either no one has cracked it and have a half working diagnostic suite like i do, or they did crack it but it was so long ago now that the information is lost. Currently waiting on some parts from Germany for this. Getting a new ZHP 5 speed weighted gear knob, front screen cowl, and all the seals for the vent and rear windows (as they are old and perished like most). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 6, 2014 Actually, i see you're in wellington too. I could probably copy my virtual machine files for you if you like? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLee 35 Report post Posted August 10, 2014 I think the fact I'm trying to use a W7 64bit doesn't help, might be time for an old machine running XP.In fact that would be awesome, thanks. Only if it doesn't put you out of your way. Can I send you a flash drive or something? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
francoisv 466 Report post Posted August 10, 2014 Ive used this little device from PB Tech. Ill trytrack down the link for you, but its basically USB3.0 to Serial adapter. it uses XP drivers but worked pretty well on Win7. You might have to adjust the voltage priority on your USB3.0 port from 5~7V to 5~9V to get the most out of the device. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) USB to serial does not work (or i would have used one of my many, much better, laptops with USB and my existing USB to serial cables), it must be a native serial port to work with ADS. USB to serial does work with the 96 onwards E36, and the E46/E39 (no idea about E34 etc). Ill have a look some time this week and see how big the virtual machine files are and get back to you. Edited August 10, 2014 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 So, i stuck my knob in the car. Feels nice, noticeably lower. Havent been for a drive yet. Its a shame though that the gearboot covers the metal trim, but the only way i can fix that is to cut some of the top of the gear boot down which im reluctant to do. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2122 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 how meke? ill probably get one when i put my manual box in the E30 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 Too much O_O nice to use though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 the stitching only goes so far up the top of it, so if i roll it down there will be a bit at the top that doesnt have the tricolor stitching. I also cant slide it further down the shifter because the shifter increases in size drastically, like this Only option is to trim the boot so it can fit futher down the shifter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 I see someone had the same issue as i do here, just doesnt looks as good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 603 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 Mine sits fine... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Nope, see, yours has a patch without tricolour stitching showing too. Fold that under like i have and youll have the same issue Edited August 17, 2014 by KwS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 603 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 (edited) Very minimal on mine tho, and I cant see it when I'm driving anyway haha! Edited August 17, 2014 by euroriffic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 i think the section thats unstitched on mine is a little longer, but it'd still bug me. damn OCD. maybe next weekend ill take a knife to it and make it look better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
euroriffic 603 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 My hand break one was a bit like that, just turned it inside out on it, put a small cable tie or tape round it then slide the rest back over Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted August 17, 2014 Alright, youve done it now. My paint skills are called into action. Black is the shifter Blue is gear knob red is the boot. where it dips down over the shifter is where it is rolled in on its self. If i unroll this at all, there will be a section with no tricolour stitching. Trimming the bit inside the rolled section that is against where the shifter increases in size should allow me to move the boot down the shifter further. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted September 30, 2014 Long awaited update. Car died on the way home about a month ago, started to misfire badly and couldnt put the engine under any load without it cutting out. Sure made the drive home up hill fun. Got it into the garage and DIS indicated a Cam Position sensor failure. Being that there are 3 cam position sensors i couldnt narrow down which one had given up. I suspected it was the TDC or intake cam sensors. I took all the sensors out early on and gave them a clean. The intake sensor was VERY dirty. I gave it a decent clean and afterwards i noticed the car ran better but still misfired. I then parked the car up and left it for 3 weeks whilst i ordered all 3 new sensors from the dealer. I took the car out over the weekend and used my newly acquired oscilloscope to test the cam sensors, knowing that my new sensors were days away. All sensors tested OK, but i noted that the car was idling better so i took it for a drive up the street. It was running fantastic, no signs of issues at all. The only difference was that i fully charged the battery as it had been getting a real hammering whilst running diagnostics and had run dead a couple of times recently. Since it went up the street OK i took it for a longer run, to upper hutt and back. Ran mint, pulled strong and no signs of issues. On Sunday i did a loop of SH2, SH58, SH1, SH2 to home. Still running perfect, and it almost felt like it was running smoother. I suspect it was a combo of the intake cam sensor being dirty causing the original issue, and a sketchy battery charge causing the issue later on after cleaning. As a matter of course, i got the new sensors anyway as the old ones were 20 years old and starting to fall to bits (strain relief on the cables fallings off etc). Boom, got me some sensors today. Started with the shittiest one to get at, the intake sensor. Limited room means i need an allen key to crack the bolt and then there is only enough room to turn the bolt with the tips of your fingers 1/4 turn at a time. Getting the bolt back in is even worse, no room to move. Old vs New Replaced The next one was the exhaust sensor. Limited room thanks to the AC hose running past it. You can undo it easy enough but the hose stops you removing it. I used a long pry bar to lever against the heatshield and push the pipe away enough to pop the sensor out. Old and new And finally the TDC sensor Took it for a drive, goes very well. Probably a placebo but car feels like its running smoother. Vroom vroom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2378 Report post Posted September 30, 2014 Oh, and i did end up cutting a small section off the top of my gear bot so it now sits below the knob. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
