MHD flash app. Anyone tried this yet?

[digitalashley 7]

 

10 minutes ago, NakiTouring said:

I assume the car is currently inoperable, or does it still run? Do you have another Android device you can put your Google account on? I guess finding a USB C one might be an issue...

I believe it is inoperable but I haven't tried to start it since trying to flash today. Might start in a limp mode. 

I have lots of decent Android phones I could test.

Like my s8 but it seems that you have to do more than just have the same Gmail on the phone to use the modules already purchased.

One of the other guys @Benji335i mentioned transferring the account. 

@B.M.W Ltd before when it was showing the voltage on the app it was saying 11.9v with a charger on, now it shows only 0 volts via app. 

I checked directly with voltmeter AMD said I had 12.6-8v . Which did seem lower than people online. But even with my brand new battery was the same with 710CCA as well.

[NakiTouring 54]

17 hours ago, digitalashley said:

 

I have lots of decent Android phones I could test.

Like my s8 but it seems that you have to do more than just have the same Gmail on the phone to use the modules already purchased.

One of the other guys @Benji335i mentioned transferring the account. 

 

I bought a phone for the wife recently, put my Google account on it, downloaded the MHD app and away it went (I had to do this as unfortunately my Note 8's USB port is shagged).  My understanding is that for licensing, it checks your Google account and the car's DME.

[digitalashley 7]

On 7/31/2018 at 5:21 PM, NakiTouring said:

I bought a phone for the wife recently, put my Google account on it, downloaded the MHD app and away it went (I had to do this as unfortunately my Note 8's USB port is shagged).  My understanding is that for licensing, it checks your Google account and the car's DME.

Oh really weird. I have the same Gmail on both phones and MHD says I need to buy the modules again. 

[digitalashley 7]

So after a night being on the charger and using my new cheap cable I managed to flash back to stock. Then managed to flash the stage 1 98 Ron map. Definitely noticed the difference with power. Car also runs warmer though. Extra 10 degrees at 110 instead of my standard 100 degrees. It does get very close to 120 degrees when boosting it a little..

I'm unsure if that temp is okay..

[digitalashley 7]

For future MHD people make sure battery is at least at 13 volts and with a charger running then attempt to flash. 

[B.M.W Ltd 950]

57 minutes ago, digitalashley said:

For future MHD people make sure battery is at least at 13 volts and with a charger running then attempt to flash. 

How many times should I need to tell people ??  13.7v is the maintained voltage specified by all manufacturers when coding or flashing

Edited August 1, 2018 by B.M.W Ltd

[Ninjaspartan 23]

@digitalashley  When I took mine to Hampton downs oil temps went up quite high,  peaked at around  140 degrees.  120 will be fine,  If you have good oil it won't start breaking down at 120 degrees.  If your car has an oil cooler you could get the Burger Motorsports sport oil cooler valve.

Edited August 1, 2018 by Ninjaspartan

[digitalashley 7]

14 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

How many times should I need to tell people ??  13.7v is the maintained voltage specified by all manufacturers when coding or flashing

Won't have to tell me again ?. I've never done any software stuff before always been maintenance items on all my car's. 

I thought if I had the charger running with it while flashing it's fine. But you are definitely right my car wouldn't do a full flash until I had it over 13v ,the small 2 min flashes are going through fine without my charger so far. But still would suggest to others only flash with charger 100%

[digitalashley 7]

12 hours ago, Ninjaspartan said:

@digitalashley  When I took mine to Hampton downs oil temps went up quite high,  peaked at around  140 degrees.  120 will be fine,  If you have good oil it won't start breaking down at 120 degrees.  If your car has an oil cooler you could get the Burger Motorsports sport oil cooler valve.

Yeah I'll be changing the oil again soon just since I don't have the oil cap tool yet waiting on that to arrive. Will be putting in penrite 5w 30 fully synthetic. That would be a good oil I assume seems to have the rite certs . 

The oil cooler would be the one located in my right wheel well?

I like the sound of that, I assume just a more open valve?

[Herbmiester 923]

The only way to get your oil temp lower is a bigger or extra oil cooler. I have tried the BMS valve all it does is open earlier its not fix for multiple laps on track days.

[blake12 23]

Im safe running stage 1 with vrsf downpipes right? 

Or do I need to go stage 2 so the tune knows I have pipes and so can adjust for the o2 readings correctly? 

I reflashed stage 1 with the pipes in, and made sure the catted downpipe box was unchecked, so I think im good, but doesn't harm to check. 

[Matth5 471]

Yep. I've driven on stock map and stage 1 maps before with all S2 supporting mods and it drives fine.

Catted downpipe checkbox just hides the check engine light when you're catless, which isn't even an issue in NZ. Check engine lights don't prevent you passing a WOF. 

Edited August 30, 2018 by Matth5

[NakiTouring 54]

6 hours ago, blake12 said:

Im safe running stage 1 with vrsf downpipes right? 

Or do I need to go stage 2 so the tune knows I have pipes and so can adjust for the o2 readings correctly? 

I reflashed stage 1 with the pipes in, and made sure the catted downpipe box was unchecked, so I think im good, but doesn't harm to check. 

I'm in the same boat, plus silicone inlets, and was wondering the same thing...just haven't been brave enough to go stage 2 yet for fear of breaking something.  I know that with my Polo 1.8T, you can't (or shouldn't) have a catless DP without the appropriate stage 2 tune...something to do with over boost I believe.  Not sure on the details, I think smarter boost sensor and or ECU on the Bavarian cars?  But even with the silicon inlets, an off the shelf stage 2 for my N54 is probably not ideal.

[Herbmiester 923]

Stage 1 or 1+ are fine with standard cats but upgraded Inter cooler is recommended. Stage 2 wants new inter cooler and cat less down pipes. Interestingly Stage 1+ has similar power to stage 2 stage 2+ ups it over both. 

[kmx 1]

From memory

stage 1 is no bolt ons needed so fully stock - I ran this for about a year and made huge difference and car ran great but I had car serviced and fresh plugs and coils  

stage 2 is downpipes

the + on either stage means upgraded intercooler as well as what ever the stage needs.

 

I’ve been running 2+ for about a year with down pipes, intercooler, charge pipe and inlets and again. Runs great. Strong gain over stage 1. Stacked with xhp is a nice combination.  

[blake12 23]

Yeh I understand what each tune requires, I was asking if it was safe to stay on stage 1/1+ with catless downpipes or if I needed to go stage 2. But seeing there is an option to choose catted/catless dp's on the stage 1 flash, I am guessing it is safe. 

[Matth5 471]

The checkbox is purely to enable/disable the error codes, it does not affect the tune.

But yes it is safe, even the stock map works fine. 

Edited September 4, 2018 by Matth5

[KwS 2425]

Hey guys, didn't want to start my own thread so just popping in here. 

I'm looking at buying a car with an mhd tune on it. I understand tunes are Vin and Google account locked, so I'm guessing I'll need to buy the app and tune myself if I wanted to tweak anything (like playing with the burble)? I'm also guessing I'll have no way to get the stock tune back if I needed to?

Would there be any issue with me buying the same tune as on the car and loading it again?

[Matth5 471]

If the owner emails MHD they might transfer the license to another Google account. 

Not sure if MHD requires the paid license to flash back to stock... good chance it does. It is a bummer they locked it to both the Google acc and VIN... if it was just VIN locked then at least it could be easily passed down to future owners. 
Guess the owner has too much on his Google account to be able to hand the account over? I'd be in the same boat, wish I made a separate account for the car. 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Matth5

[NakiTouring 54]

Pretty much what Matth5 said. Or maybe you should get the current owner to flash it back to stock. That would allow you to get used to the car, and then stump up the $200 odd, flash it yourself later and enjoy the difference. This assumes the car is kinda on stock hardware and can still run properly on stock flash.

[KwS 2425]

Yeah it's not stock enough I guess as it's running stage 2+ currently. I'll leave it on that tune but being the kid I am, I want to play with burbles lol. 

Such a shame you can't transfer to another Google account but still be Vin locked. 

[Matth5 471]

Stage 2+ doesn't mean it can't run the stock map. Downpipes and intercooler don't cause issues with the stock map. Aside from the check engine light caused the the lack of a cat, which doesn't affect how the car runs. Have driven mine on the stock map and it was fine, and I have the usual stage 2+ bolt ons with a few other bits. 

But if it runs well on the map it's on, you may as well have the owner leave it installed. Hopefully he's checked logs to make sure it runs well. 

Edited October 8, 2018 by Matth5

[Herbmiester 923]

Just do your research on the burble, there is enough talk of it being bad for the Turbos that I would delve deeper if choosing that option. 

[Peter1978 0]

Hi, I have a 335i (2008) N54 with following mods:

Dual cone air filters

Aftermarket (big) intercooler

Aluminium charge pipe

Cat-less Down pipes

MHD stage 2 (95 ron) map

Today I received my JB4 from Burger Motorsport and keen to fit soon. Do I need to flash the DME back to stock before fitting the JB4? Once I have fitted the JB4 I plan to flash the relevant backend map (via n54tech).

Im thinking the stand alone MHD maps (im not talking about the JB4 backend maps) are not to be run in conjunction with the JB4!

if this is the case, it’s a shame to lose the easy configuration settings of (stand alone) MHD maps like the exhaust burble etc! 

Or am I totally confused on how these integrate?

Is there anyone who could point me in the right direction?

Edited October 26, 2018 by Peter1978

[KwS 2425]

Sounds like similar mods to my car. I can't help, but i'm curious, what is the advantage of JB4 over just running MHD?