85 525e First car

[M M 250]

Look at this guide, it's what I followed and it worked: http://www.mye28.com/tech/DaveKanTransGuide/

Pins 2 and 3 at the plug of the auto shifter in the car.

[eliongater 718]

Look at this guide, it's what I followed and it worked: http://www.mye28.com/tech/DaveKanTransGuide/

Pins 2 and 3 at the plug of the auto shifter in the car.

Yeah, that's the guide i'm following and I have done that, so i'm not sure.

Could you do me a favor and measure your driveshaft? I have a feeling i'm going to need to get one made if I got the m20 route

Edited August 28, 2015 by eliongater

[will 169]

Bridging out the pins on the selector plug is a bodge. All you are doing is permanently energising a relay which will be a weak point ready to fail and leave you stranded sometime in the future...

Like the e30, the e28 has a separate auto loom that plugs into the main loom. You need to get in behind the dash and disconnect the auto loom from the main loom and reconnect the starter wire circuit. Look for the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch, find the plugs where it is re-routed through the inhibitor circuit, unplug it from this loom and reconnect it to itself. I personally would strip the whole auto loom out of the car, bit of work in that you have to lift the carpet/seat, but worth it to be rid of unnecessary wiring that could cause issues somewhere down the line.

[M M 250]

That's a good point, I was unaware that that's what it does. I was planning on pulling the wiring out when I change the carpets and do the heaterbox anyway. However I thought it might help him to make sure that he doesn't have some other issue as well.

Eliongater, I will measure it for you but it might be on Monday at the earliest as I have a bit of a busy weekend. Hope that's ok.

[eliongater 718]

Bridging out the pins on the selector plug is a bodge. All you are doing is permanently energising a relay which will be a weak point ready to fail and leave you stranded sometime in the future...

Like the e30, the e28 has a separate auto loom that plugs into the main loom. You need to get in behind the dash and disconnect the auto loom from the main loom and reconnect the starter wire circuit. Look for the black/yellow wire from the ignition switch, find the plugs where it is re-routed through the inhibitor circuit, unplug it from this loom and reconnect it to itself. I personally would strip the whole auto loom out of the car, bit of work in that you have to lift the carpet/seat, but worth it to be rid of unnecessary wiring that could cause issues somewhere down the line.

I didn't know that. That might be why it doesn't start with the key even though it is bridged. That's good advice, which I haven't seen in a manual swap guide before.

Anyone want to buy an e28 auto loom?

That's a good point, I was unaware that that's what it does. I was planning on pulling the wiring out when I change the carpets and do the heaterbox anyway. However I thought it might help him to make sure that he doesn't have some other issue as well.

Eliongater, I will measure it for you but it might be on Monday at the earliest as I have a bit of a busy weekend. Hope that's ok.

Thanks!

There's no real rush, just whenever suits you.

Thanks for all of the help everyone.

[eliongater 718]

Realized I haven't posted any pictures of the car outside...

Also tried on one of my style 4 wheels.

With or without center caps?

It's a tight fit.

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

should work ok with an appropriate tyre

[eliongater 718]

should work ok with an appropriate tyre

There's some tyres here that should work

http://www.scrappycrow.com/e28wheelstires/e28wheelstirestbl.html

EDIT: my wheels are the 16" e38 wheels

Edited September 2, 2015 by eliongater

[M M 250]

I vote without center cap. They're going to look good on there.

Sorry about the delay with measuring the driveshaft, finally got some time today. It was 1550mm (might be +/- a bit as the exhaust etc. is installed so couldn't get the tape 100% straight)

[eliongater 718]

I vote without center cap. They're going to look good on there.

Sorry about the delay with measuring the driveshaft, finally got some time today. It was 1550mm (might be +/- a bit as the exhaust etc. is installed so couldn't get the tape 100% straight)

Thanks for that. That gives me something to compare to.

Here's my drive shaft (top one is auto 525e) from an m30 e28.

End to end. Measurement might be slightly off.

Gearbox side only. From edge of CSB.

Bolt distance.

(Found a use for my sister )

How does that compare to yours M M?

Edited September 4, 2015 by eliongater

[M M 250]

I'm not sure about the bolt distance for the bit that bolts to the guibo but the overall length actually seems to be the same. If I was you I'd try and find an M20 gearbox (even if just to borrow) to test it on the car, if you can't find a gearbox with matching driveshaft.

Bear in mind that my gearbox is a Getrag 260/5, I'm not sure if the 260/6 is the same length in the case you find one of those.

[Allanw 1072]

(Found a use for my sister )

So that's not nail polish remnants on YOUR finger?

I thought you might have had a MAN-icure too - I've still got a bit of grey on mine, from etching some wheels

[eliongater 718]

So that's not nail polish remnants on YOUR finger?

I thought you might have had a MAN-icure too - I've still got a bit of grey on mine, from etching some wheels

That is definitely not my finger. They are also her flowery gum boot things

[eliongater 718]

Ended up buying an 88 e34 535i manual. Still waiting for the massive battery to trickle charge (318i plus average jumper leads = no go) so I can start it. The plan is either to fix it and sell it (maybe keep it) or part it out and keep parts from it for my e28.

[BM WORLD 1286]

ha ha nice

most likely a custom engine mount for the rhs will be required for the e34 engine to fit the e28 .

and you will need a e28 525i 528i 535i e24 635csi 628csi driveshaft ,

gear linkages etc

to suit as well

or modify what you have

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

There are a few E28s floating around that are very cool (Brents included), they are basically an E30 with adequate rear leg room.

Some real shitters too...

For some reason just doesn't seem to be a huge following for the 5ers here in NZ!

[eliongater 718]

There are a few E28s floating around that are very cool (Brents included), they are basically an E30 with adequate rear leg room.

Some real shitters too...

For some reason just doesn't seem to be a huge following for the 5ers here in NZ!

It's actually grown on me heaps (I used to really want an e30, I still do to an extent, but them seem over used now and e30 tax ) and the more I think about it the more sensible it seems, with adequate economy, ergonomics and classic looks.

[eliongater 718]

Have free transport from Auckland to Wellington next weekend, so need to bite the bullet and buy a gearbox (because they mainly seem to be up there) ASAP.

Also going to take the e34 for a wof soon (that it will fail) and see exactly what it needs, I'm thinking it's going to be a lot. So what are some nice bits I can take of an e34? I know that some suspension parts will work, the LSD should work (might require putting into an e28 case), might grab the clutch (or not, it's very bitey) and also the mtech 1 steering wheel, except I might need the column for that as I believe mine is coarse splined.

I also got the stereo working in the e28 by connecting the factory fader back up. And I attempted to give it a cut and polish.

[eliongater 718]

I guess I have 3 engine choices...

stock m20b27. Just needs gearbox to finish off

'Stroker' m20b27, I have m20b25 pistons (and crank and block). Needs gearbox, 885 head and electronics

or m30b35. Needs mounting brackets and other little things

EDIT: also cheap shocks? http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53930-e28-kyb-front-shocks-worth-it/

Edited September 16, 2015 by eliongater

[eliongater 718]

Slightly at a loss as to where to go next with this project now that exams have finished.

My main problem is I have too many options

This isn't helped by my parents saying I should keep it original, but at the end of the day it's a just a fairly low K straight (enough) poverty pack 525e... (aka a blank canvas ).

Basically what's the best thing I can make from all this stuff..

• e28 manual (no gearbox in it yet) 525e (beige cloth seats), so a complete m20b27
• m20b25 (block, crank and pistons. No head or sump)
• m20b20 (head, intake and exhaust manifold. No block.)
• e28 m30 manual driveshaft
• getrag 265 (no bellhousing)
• getrag 260 (early motronic m30)
• getrag 260 (early motronic m20)
• e34 manual 535i parts car (so another getrag 260, but late motronic), with running m30 (but broken intake rocker), black leather seats (that will fit the e28 with some mods), bigger brakes that I can use and maybe the rear subframe if I'm feeling insane...

So what do you guys think is the best outcome from this mess of stuff?

Edit: had one of the getrag 260s listed as an m30 when its an m20. Also clarified the m20 info

Edited November 12, 2015 by eliongater

[qube 3570]

whats wrong with the e34 parts car?

[eliongater 718]

whats wrong with the e34 parts car?

Lots of little things, matte black, completely sacked, ex UK so rusty, leaks, broken intake rocker (easy to fix though, engine is good), most of the rubber/seals (door seals, suspension bushes, everything) on it is ruined, door cards and headlinng falling apart, completely ghettofied electronics and the fact that it's now in parts

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

your first decision from here is to make sure the E28 is the chassis you want to throw your coin at

If its not, prepare the E28 for sale.

If it is, M30 and manual from the E34 into it, following @Brents advice from above, he has done the swap before etc

[CamB 48]

To stop hogging all the m30 bellhousing 260s in the world!

The easiest thing to do is find the right gearbox for the car (if it runs ok). That should also be the cheapest (although may not seem that way with the upfront cost/hassle of buying the right box). But it has the highest probability of going without spending up on lots of random stuff you don't yet know you are missing.

Next easiest would be finding the right box and putting your b25 in. This involves more electrics I suppose but the exhaust fits.

M30 would be fastest, but if I remember your other thread not the M30 you have. Doesn't that engine have problems? Would need a cert.

Anyway - that's my 2c. Get it going, drive it and work out what you want.

[eliongater 718]

Realised I had some mistakes in my post about what I had, should be clearer now.

I think I should stop faffing about and just put the 260 in and go from there. Then if I can't sell the m30 ill stick it away for a rainy day and maybe build an m20 stroker in the mean time.

And do the brake and seat swap anyway cause its not a special model so who cares about originality, plus they can be reversed easily.

For the moment the e28 is the chassis I want to stick with. I would like a race car (e30 or e36 most likely) and/or a touring (e30, e34, e39 or e28 ) but can't really afford a nice one or another project car at the moment, or decide what model. So ill stick with the e28 cause I really like them now, besides e30s can't have all the love .

Technically should have a cert for the manual conversion anyway... The m30 should be easily fixable. The m20b27 in the car runs (can't really tell how well with the exhaust off) and should be good, sub 200km and previous owner is a mechanic. I also have the majority of the parts for an m20 stroker so that's also an option.

Edited November 12, 2015 by eliongater