LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 (edited) So I was going to make a project log, but this is probably going to have more questions than answers.So linking from here http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54477-weird-rhythmic-knocking-m20b23-in-1990-320i/ The back story is I bought a 1990 320iA that had been re-powered with a M20B23. A few oddities have presented as I've tried to get this thing up to spec, including; metal filings in the radiator, LOADS of crap in the fuel filter/tank. (3 fuel filters down (replacing it each tank of gas) and still sediment coming out). Rust... everywhere water in the passenger footwell possible leaky valve stem seals But enough about the past. So the whole time i've owned it there has been a weird rhythmic knocking from the engine bay I assumed to be either normal, or nothing serious. It started getting louder and louder, then the power started to drop noticeably plus some miss fires on deceleration, that's when I noticed that the toothed part of the vibration dampener was rubbing on the water pump pulley, and it was wobbling, and the jesus bolt was MIA... FML. So the back of the waterpump pulley and the front of the vibration dampener had lost a bit of material. Close up on the dampener What a normal one looks like Anyway, I got down to business tonight and pulled everything off the front of the motor. The good news is, it looks like all of the bolt rattled out, rather than shearing off, I can feel the outer threads in the hole. Plus I measured the depth, the bolt is 65mm long, and the whole is about 70mm deep from the face of the cam belt cog. The bad news is there is a LOT of either rubber or metal filings... buggered if I could find a magnet to verify. So the last bit, which I realise now is the cam belt driver cog, seems to move a lot, and this is probably because the jesus bolt is missing, but with the bolt off would you consider this much movement normal? I'm guessing to be safe I need to pull this cog off and make sure everything underneath isn't too untoward... Assuming everything inside isn't totally funked from the amount of wobbling the dampener had been doing for so long, I may need to replace the timing belt as well, it may be prematurely worn from the wobbling. And if the and of the end of the crank isn't funked, while timing belt is off, I may as well take the damn head off too and replace the stem seals that seem to be leaking. I'm going to be waiting a couple of weeks for the jesus bolt to show up. Edited November 20, 2015 by Charlie F. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 In, 6 pages before OEFOX's responce. my only regret is John and I not taking this before a drive to see the sort of car it was before you brought it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 My intent is not the name and shame the PO, it's entirely plausible he was ignorant to the extent of the dramas, and at the end of the day, it serves as a warning, don't buy a car, as is where is, sight unseen, when advised against it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 It seems the cheaper route is to swap in a decent m20b25. But if the rust issues are bad then maybe even swap the wheels, suspension and cosmetic stuff across to a new shell with a solid engine already in it. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahmedsinc 414 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 It seems the cheaper route is to swap in a decent m20b25. But if the rust issues are bad then maybe even swap the wheels, suspension and cosmetic stuff across to a new shell with a solid engine already in it. This. Sooner or later the rot will kill the body and you'll be back into the same predicament. Look for a good body with the 2.5 and swap across your goodies to that. The B23 is probably rebuildable but something tells me it would be a money pit to get it right Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 It seems the cheaper route is to swap in a decent m20b25. But if the rust issues are bad then maybe even swap the wheels, suspension and cosmetic stuff across to a new shell with a solid engine already in it. I've got a foot in the 'better the devil you know' camp. Plus I'm in chch. All the solid m20b25s, & e30s are up north. Topping that off i have zero job security as of today so i need to spend the minimum right now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 Sell what you can of it and buy a corolla then. It's gonna be a money pit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 Sell what you can of it and buy a corolla then. It's gonna be a money pit Beleive me this option has crossed my mind Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MattA 164 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 Tits, tyres or transom, it'll cost ya...... 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted November 21, 2015 So I was going to make a project log, but this is probably going to have more questions than answers. So linking from here http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54477-weird-rhythmic-knocking-m20b23-in-1990-320i/ The back story is I bought a 1990 320iA that had been re-powered with a M20B23. A few oddities have presented as I've tried to get this thing up to spec, including; metal filings in the radiator, LOADS of crap in the fuel filter/tank. (3 fuel filters down (replacing it each tank of gas) and still sediment coming out). Rust... everywhere water in the passenger footwell possible leaky valve stem seals metal in rad, drain and flush system. maybe check waterpump for failure. drop, drain and flush fuel tank. maybe flush hard lines. wheres the rust and how bad? is it just cosmetic, or will it become a structural issue? water in footwell is probably rust or sunroof drains if it has one leaky valve stem seals are a bitch, maybe do a leakdown and compression test to make sure the rest of the internals are good first. I know its hard, having so many issues, but i think with a bit of hard work and time (maybe some money) you should be able to get it into a state where you are happy to drive and enjoy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 21, 2015 Any thoughts if this is oil or fuel? The thread of the plug seems wet with fuel or oil or a mixture. and there seems to be a mix of shiney and fluffy carbon build up. An earlier thread of mine discussed how after really hard driving (Takaka Hill (365 corners over 800m of altitude gain and loss)), it would dump a plume of light grey smoke when I came back on the gas from either deceleration or sitting on the side of the road idling for a time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted November 21, 2015 Definitely oil contamination. Looks like running rich too Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 21, 2015 Definitely oil contamination. Looks like running rich too If the end of the crank isn't absolutley stuffed... looks like the heads coming off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valvebounce 2 Report post Posted November 21, 2015 That scoat is burned oil. if it doesn't hok out blue smoke when you rev the clacker off it, then you probably just have rooted valve stem seals. Also, if you're desperate, I have a m20B25 shortblock that has the crank pulley, chopper wheel etc still on it if you get stuck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 26, 2015 Okay, engine is trash, just performed a compression test, albeit cold as the water pump etc are disconnected, 150-145-146-151-75-115 PSI respectively I put this as blown head gasket probably between cylinders 5 & 6. I've emailed with a suggestion to let him buy it back for $500 less than I paid and forget this all happened. Will be interested in seeing what he comes back with. But for a 'rebuilt' motor 5000km ago, for the Stem seals to be leaking, head gasket to be blown & jesus bolt missing... it is now beyond a joke. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark 178 Report post Posted November 26, 2015 No fun at all. And sadly I doubt you'll get a successful resolution with the previous owner. He has no obligation to be a good bugger unfortunately. Chalk it up to experience and cut your losses I say. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 26, 2015 No fun at all. And sadly I doubt you'll get a successful resolution with the previous owner. He has no obligation to be a good bugger unfortunately. Chalk it up to experience and cut your losses I say. That may be true, but i have more evidence of a total lack of rebuild or just an extremely poor quality one. So for him to say it was rebuilt 5000km before i purchased was a very high factor for my purchase. But yeah, refer above. It's misrepresentation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 26, 2015 Sounds like buying a rotary on trademe. "Full rebuild, no receipts" 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted November 26, 2015 "350k on body , 150k on motor put in by previous owner" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted November 26, 2015 One careful lady owner (race look pedals/steeringwheel/handbrake) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 (edited) Righty, finally got the crankshaft timing pulley off after investing in a Harmonic BalancerPuller. Looking inside, it looks like the crank shaft outside is toast, you can see on the right where the biscuit woodruff key is supposed to sit... and on the left where it has been moving about. but the inside of the pulley seems okay? There is a wider part, but that seems machined rather than worn. biscuit woodruff looks a bit beat up too. On the upside, I didn't pull the trigger on a new head gasket set. Series of Expletives omitted. Wish me luck at small claims. Edited December 4, 2015 by Charlie F. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 Biscuit looks a bit beat up too. *woodruff key Thats sh*t man, looks like its been missing the bolt for a while. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 *woodruff key Thats sh*t man, looks like its been missing the bolt for a while. Yeah, I'm astounded it didn't managed to start free spinning, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 Both crank and pulley are stuffed. Amazing the car got in this state let alone sold under false info. I hope you get a resolution to this. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 Guts, that's rooted. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
