eliongater 718 Report post Posted May 3, 2016 For future engine swaps use the lifting eyes at each end of the engine, it makes it a lot easier Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) For future engine swaps use the lifting eyes at each end of the engine, it makes it a lot easierNow that you mention it, that does sound like it would have made the job 3x easier.But wasn't thinking very well after 6 hours working on it. Edited May 3, 2016 by nick496 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted May 3, 2016 Always a bad idea trying to pull a gearbox and engine together with the bolts, there's usually a reason it won't go together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 3, 2016 Always a bad idea trying to pull a gearbox and engine together with the bolts, there's usually a reason it won't go together. Yeah, but I'd confirmed that I could mate the gearbox through the clutch and pivot bearing separately so after having taken about 3 hours of sweating and heaving, and no way to get the bearing out (got a puller after I broke it), you give it a shot. Lesson learned. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 11, 2016 (edited) I'm using an M42 Getrag 240 with a manual 320i driveshaft, and it's probably about 20mm too long, even after collapsing the driveshaft to the shortest it can. Trying to get it all jointed together and I can't seem to get the driveshaft to bolt up to the gearbox correctly. I can JUST get it into the guibo if I drop the gearbox, and then bolt up the centre bearing. But then the gearbox gets pushed on an angle, and won't come straight. I think it may be that the diff has been swapped from a small to a medium which may be my issue. Any ideas on this one? Edited May 13, 2016 by nick496 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2136 Report post Posted May 11, 2016 Small and medium has no impact, the axles and inputs are geometrically in the same place etc meanings small and medium are cross compatible, no need to change axles or driveshaft length. I used a 320 manual driveshaft in my swap, same engine and same gearbox setup. Bolted up no issue. Sounds like maybe you have a 325 driveshaft? Rear half is the same on all e30s except maybe m3, just variation in front half. Measure overall length when you get a chance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brockie123 31 Report post Posted May 11, 2016 got any pics of the barina/e30 steering linkage? i've just removed the rubber bush on mine and bolted the 2 ends together, but i'm not happy with it (z3 rack) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted May 11, 2016 (edited) you can also use a linkage from an astra and just get the top universal swapped over to the e30 one, have used this setup with my m60 http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53409-e30-steering-guibo-delete/ Edited May 11, 2016 by WYZEUP Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 What engine mounts did you use? e28 535 / m5? Offset holes are offset outwards each side? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 (edited) Righto, so to answer all of the questions: Driveshaft length, I took these measurements with it still mostly bolted in the car, so won't be 100% Diff flange to Centre Bearing is 800mm Centre to gearbox flange 670mm Total length 1470mm Which based off the e30zone wiki, is more like a 318/325 manual driveshaft, not a 320 manual, which is longer. Which makes me think it's the gearbox rear flange sitting further back on the 318i, as I noted in post 49 As you can sort of see with the photos, the front of the flange is in line with the centre of the guibo, with the driveshaft collapsed as far as it can go. In terms of mounts, I'm using the RevShift 24V swap mounts, so they are all angled. Put the Revshift mounts on opposite sides of the labels, so that should be fine since they're for LHD. Using just the standard E36 arms in their original location. So that all seems to be correct Drivers: Passengers: How the whole engine sits: As for the steering linkage, totally forgot to take more photos before putting it in. Both Astra/Barina seem to work the same. Take the top off and replace it with the E30 join. Had to also file down the 'master' spline on the rack end, and also a bit off the rack to allow the bolt to slide through. Mine didn’t come out the tidiest after pressing in the bushings. Found that when flexing the join in my hand, it felt a bit jerky when moving it slowly, but bolted up and feels smooth with the front jacked up. Can't comment on actual drivability though. Edited May 13, 2016 by nick496 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 Oh yeah, I'm going to go with that rear flange sticking out being the issue. Never seen one stick out so far before, mine was the same as the m20 box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 The only other place I found mentioning prop lengths differences was here comparing an M42 240 with an M40 240. http://www.m42club.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=ui2n3eo94rkmjr6tlr5pdrtn74&topic=9583.msg78289#msg78289 Not sure if that's something that's easily fixable though, as presumably the shaft runs the whole length of the gearbox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2136 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 Oh yeah, I'm going to go with that rear flange sticking out being the issue. Never seen one stick out so far before, mine was the same as the m20 box. i agree Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 (edited) So based on what I've found, an e36 325i manual driveshaft may do the trick. Though based on all of the options (different driveshaft, m40 gearbox, shortening), just shortening the driveshaft would probably would out the cheapest with the least hassle at this point. Edited May 12, 2016 by nick496 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Vapour 76 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 What mounts are you using for the gearb ox? Are you aware that they will need to be pretty poly as you have used poly for the motor. And are you sure ghat the mounts are the correct way. It reads like you swapped them for rhd reasons, but this should not have been an issue as I don't think the lhd cars would have had the motor in a different position. What's your clearance like with the sump? I got a getrag 220 for my swap as I was only goi g to run a m50b20, but now I'm thinking I should of got a 240 for the b28. Thanks for putting g up the pics and Info and the delays. Lots of learning going on . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 And are you sure ghat the mounts are the correct way. It reads like you swapped them for rhd reasons, but this should not have been an issue as I don't think the lhd cars would have had the motor in a different position. I was thinking the same thing....they shouldnt need to be swapped as nothing except the pedal box and streering have been swapped, motor orientation etc is still the same??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 Mounts look fine to me and in the right position, it's definitely that gearbox flange. If you had a m40 g240 then it would most likely fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30ftw 410 Report post Posted May 12, 2016 I got a getrag 220 for my swap as I was only goi g to run a m50b20, but now I'm thinking I should of got a 240 for the b28. 220 and 240 both work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 And to tidy up a few more lose ends. I've swapped the Revshift motor mounts around, since they're made in the US, and they'd be labeled for RHD The Engine arms are still on the original sides of the engines. And the gearbox mounts are also Revshift poly mounts. Gearbox bolts up nice and straight on the original bracket, and engine is sitting in there fine. As for sump clearance, it's fine for now, but can take some photos tonight. Driveshaft shortening, I'm just holding off on that until I get my replacement shifter arm, as I'm still not confident just yet that it will show. But it should show up next week. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WYZEUP 283 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 just an idea of cost of having your driveshaft shortened at about $400 and you need to take him the whole shaft as ive just done this on my car, your best bet would be to take your front shaft to the likes of mosens and find a front half shaft that suits and will be a lot cheaper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Vapour 76 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 220 and 240 both work Yes but my concern is they are not as strong. Um planning on punting it around the track and down the strip so am concerned that the 220 won't hold up. But this is not my thread so sorry for the Jack. back to the touring. That's good to know I was just asking for clarification. I was thinking that I could use the e36 arms and it will bolt in but I must be misinformed.. Keep up the good work. Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 269 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 Sounds like a plan, will hit up Mosens. Will still need to get it balanced afterwards anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 This swap has been done a bazillion times and the misinformation is still all over the place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2136 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 This swap has been done a bazillion times and the misinformation is still all over the place. who from? John and I have both done the swap ourselves with this exact setup. the only variation on our own builds was that flange on the back of the gearbox. Nick, be aware any modification to the driveshaft, again another red flag for your cert guy and also to WOF inspector if you plan to drive uncharted for a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted May 13, 2016 who from? John and I have both done the swap ourselves with this exact setup. the only variation on our own builds was that flange on the back of the gearbox. Nick, be aware any modification to the driveshaft, again another red flag for your cert guy and also to WOF inspector if you plan to drive uncharted for a bit. Can't figure out what driveshaft to use. Someone thinks they can't use e36 mount arms. Swapping engine mounts because lhd / rhd lol. maybe I didn't read the thread properly Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites