E39 shop fest advice wanted. 525i, 525i Touring, or 530i?

[Gabe79 410]

Greetings forum folks!

I'm looking for some shopping advice here.

We need a second car and I am keen to get back into a BMW. I've been looking at some nice e39s on trademe and could use some help measuring cars against one another.

I am looking at three e39 cars:

2003 525i with 147k km for $4750

2002 525i touring with 130k km for $5800 (is the touring really worth this much more? I do fancy the additional space, which is why it's on the list at all given the price difference.)

2002 530i with 125k km for $4200 (has a healthy dent on the side, which I'd need to price out)

I'm partial to the 530i or the wagon myself, but it's quite a healthy price spread. None seem to have very good service records, although the 530i claims to have been serviced exclusively by Bella Motors.

I plan on test driving these on Saturday and hopefully having them inspected by BM Workshop or Botany Motor Worxx, whichever I can get an appointment at. (The cars seem to all be in East Auckland equidistant from these two shops)

Given the little information above, is there a reason to exclude any of these outright?  Any reason to focus on one versus another?

Thank you all for your time, I appreciate it.

Edited January 26, 2017 by Gabe79

[NZ BMW 368]

It's amazing how cheap these cars are now for what you get.

Without commenting on the particular cars you've got listed, I would recommend the 530i in terms of engine. I had one for about four years and it was the best combination overall. I drove a couple of 525i's when looking to buy and they always felt slightly underpowered, particularly if you're planning on doing open road driving. 

Any reason why you're not looking at these? 

 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1242778126.htm 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1199307938.htm 

[qube 3570]

I have a 2003 530i Touring black msport I could consider selling for the right price if you are interested. pm me

 

[Gabe79 410]

1 hour ago, NZ BMW said:

It's amazing how cheap these cars are now for what you get.

Without commenting on the particular cars you've got listed, I would recommend the 530i in terms of engine. I had one for about four years and it was the best combination overall. I drove a couple of 525i's when looking to buy and they always felt slightly underpowered, particularly if you're planning on doing open road driving. 

Any reason why you're not looking at these? 

 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1242778126.htm 

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1199307938.htm 

Hi there.

Thank you very much for your advice and for taking the time to post in this thread. I appreciate it.

I had excluded the 2001 model because it is a manual. My wife can't drive stick and vetoed that option. 

The other I have actually contacted, but it is a bit outside my upper end budget. I want to get this done and dusted under $6k. The lower the better, as the difference will go into a maintenance fund.

When thinking about a 525i, I keep thinking I drive an underpowered Toyota now and it mostly works for me. I don't know the lack of power would bother me very much. I'll have to see when I drive them.

45 minutes ago, qube said:

I have a 2003 530i Touring black msport I could consider selling for the right price if you are interested. pm me

 

Messaged!

[allan 295]

Google is your friend their is a e39 buyers guide document on this forum i believe. It is not the purchase price you pay but the maintenance Pill you will have to swallow after should you rush in and not do your homework. As Nathan mentioned  a 530 is the best option for power comfort etc and having owned one for 5 and half years would agree but and always a but with BMW's. Research is the key do not be in a hurry to buy they will not go away and one will always be for sale. While you are looking these I feel are a must Service history, receipts for other work carried out, Pre purchase inspection, if possible talk to previous owners, test drive as many as you can to get and idea/feel for the model. Best of luck in your search.

[NZ BMW 368]

1 hour ago, Gabe79 said:

I had excluded the 2001 model because it is a manual. My wife can't drive stick and vetoed that option. 

They're actually both autos if you look at the picture, it's just a seller who must be confused. 

[Gabe79 410]

43 minutes ago, NZ BMW said:

They're actually both autos if you look at the picture, it's just a seller who must be confused. 

Hey, thank you for that! I am not as familiar with these gear shifters and couldn't tell from the picture. 

I've contacted them. Thanks again!

EDIT: Owner got back to me. It's sold already, alas.

Edited January 26, 2017 by Gabe79

[hotwire 352]

We have a 525i Jap origin car that i imported from Japan back in 04 @ 24k milage. Now done about 170k.

Have in the last 12 months replaced, except for the radiator, all the plastic cooling system componentry as a maintainance precaution, along with  CCV unit & associated hoses. Maintainance with these cars is the key.

Admittedly no rocket ship but have never found it underwhelming in power, even with 4 in the car. The 530i is certainly more appealing but not the be all & end all. Depends what you are after. Can & have still got my self in trouble with the 525i

[Gabe79 410]

3 hours ago, hotwire said:

We have a 525i Jap origin car that i imported from Japan back in 04 @ 24k milage. Now done about 170k.

Have in the last 12 months replaced, except for the radiator, all the plastic cooling system componentry as a maintainance precaution, along with  CCV unit & associated hoses. Maintainance with these cars is the key.

Admittedly no rocket ship but have never found it underwhelming in power, even with 4 in the car. The 530i is certainly more appealing but not the be all & end all. Depends what you are after. Can & have still got my self in trouble with the 525i

Hi, thank you for your reply!

As it turns out, my brother-in-law has a 525i and he's quite happy. I'm sure it'd be plenty of car for me. That said, the 530i seems to actually be cheaper on trademe right now for 2000-2003 so I'll probably end up going that route. Seeing some cars this weekend and considering options. My goal is to narrow down my choices to one really nice example to have inspected by Bellar's on Thursday next week.

[allan 295]

Their is a 2001 530 m sport on face book for sale if interested.

[Gabe79 410]

7 minutes ago, allan said:

Their is a 2001 530 m sport on face book for sale if interested.

Hi there, thanks for that note!

Could you link it, or pm me their details? I'm not a Facebook user. 

[allan 295]

Their is a 2001 530 m sport on face book for sale if interested.Not sure how to do that if you join face book it could save a lot of hassle.

[Gabe79 410]

3 hours ago, allan said:

Their is a 2001 530 m sport on face book for sale if interested.Not sure how to do that if you join face book it could save a lot of hassle.

Is it the one in Warkworth? If so, I'm talking to that seller. Thank you!

 

edit: I've seen it have ruled out all the cars in this thread so far. Disappointing for now but I've made a new thread in the wtb section. 

Edited January 28, 2017 by Gabe79

[Allanw 1071]

The thing with E39's in NZ is:

The average NZer is crap at maintaining a car.

Any E39 you buy, is easily capable of eating $2K after you buy it, and a LOT will REQUIRE that. It'd be VERY rare to find one properly looked after nowadays - if you do, it's probably an M5 or a members from here, but I'd pick it will be the one that seems very expensive, regardless!

They're not the same as a Jap econo car - they're complex!

 

Sometimes you're better off buying a nice one, with a list of known faults, and get it sorted out. Whatever is on the list of faults, double it and make sure you're happy with that expense :-) .

The owners to look for, are the ones who fit a SET of decent tyres, and use new parts instead of half knackered used ones etc. Owning a cheap car doesn't mean cheaping out on maintainance, if you want to to stay good and reliable.

Our E39 doesn't look pretty (it attracts parking retards like no other car I've owned!), but I'd trust it FAR more than an average pretty one off trademe! I'd hate to list what's been spent on it!

[Gabe79 410]

3 hours ago, Allanw said:

The thing with E39's in NZ is:

The average NZer is crap at maintaining a car.

Any E39 you buy, is easily capable of eating $2K after you buy it, and a LOT will REQUIRE that. It'd be VERY rare to find one properly looked after nowadays - if you do, it's probably an M5 or a members from here, but I'd pick it will be the one that seems very expensive, regardless!

They're not the same as a Jap econo car - they're complex!

 

Sometimes you're better off buying a nice one, with a list of known faults, and get it sorted out. Whatever is on the list of faults, double it and make sure you're happy with that expense :-) .

The owners to look for, are the ones who fit a SET of decent tyres, and use new parts instead of half knackered used ones etc. Owning a cheap car doesn't mean cheaping out on maintainance, if you want to to stay good and reliable.

Our E39 doesn't look pretty (it attracts parking retards like no other car I've owned!), but I'd trust it FAR more than an average pretty one off trademe! I'd hate to list what's been spent on it!

Hi Allan,

 

Thank you so much for your post!

 

I agree with you 100% and from my experience shopping for used cars, people take appalling care of their cars and specially for older cars, are all too happy to say "Oh, it's an old car, you can't expect it to be in good condition!" A huge unfixed, rusting dent isn't "wear and tear." Engines gushing oil aren't in any kind of "good condition" etc... It's been a slog looking so far.

 

I am simply looking for a car in decent starting out condition, with a relatively known history without any of the silly things people tend to do to cars...

 

I take your point on tires, I saw one with 3 tires of one type and 1 of another. Just silly stuff. I always check all four tires and rims match now.

 

Anyway, I suppose I am trying to say I am not looking for a car where I'll spend all my money on the car and have nothing left over for repairs, to the contrary. I want a nice platform to start from and build on for something I intend to keep for 10+ years to come.

[Gabe79 410]

I ended up just test driving this car:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1249166182

It is in impeccable condition.

Full history. Super smooth driving, no noises, rattles, shakes, vibrations, etc...

I can nitpick that some of the interior trim is a bit meh, but I'm talking about cup holders being broken, a wee bit of double sided tape stuck, the weather seals on the doors are a bit worn (no signs of water damage whatsoever,) etc... 

Can anyone find faults with it for me? I might own it by tonight.

[*Glenn* 854]

I would be cautious and get a PPI carried out by a BMW repairer

[Gabe79 410]

33 minutes ago, *Glenn* said:

I would be cautious and get a PPI carried out by a BMW repairer

Hi Glenn,

 

Thank you for that reality check. I appreciate it.

I've spoken with Ray and he's busy for the next fortnight. I'll call Bellars and see how I do there. 

You're an hour down from me. I'll give you a call if I can't find a slot this week closer.

EDIT: Taking it to Bellars on Thursday morning.

Edited January 31, 2017 by Gabe79

[*Glenn* 854]

[allan 295]

Great to see you are being cautious and getting a ppl. Just a couple of things how much wear is their on the front side bolster of the leather seats and how compressed it the seat base as it can course the brackets holding the seat switch's to brake due to you hitting them as you get in and out of the vehicle. Check the rubber flaps on the back of the headlights these are little drains to allow  moisture to escape but spiders love to make webs in them. This can lead to them getting blocked and the lights fogging up due to moisture being trapped in the head light.

[Gabe79 410]

19 minutes ago, allan said:

Great to see you are being cautious and getting a ppl. Just a couple of things how much wear is their on the front side bolster of the leather seats and how compressed it the seat base as it can course the brackets holding the seat switch's to brake due to you hitting them as you get in and out of the vehicle. Check the rubber flaps on the back of the headlights these are little drains to allow  moisture to escape but spiders love to make webs in them. This can lead to them getting blocked and the lights fogging up due to moisture being trapped in the head light.

Hi Allan,

Thanks for that. 

I didn't check on the passenger side. The drivers side was fine. I adjusted everything multiple times and every knob and switch felt solid and worked.  Or are you referring to something else?

As it happens I did check the rubber for the headlights. It all felt and looked brand new actually. I went through the chrisfix pre-purchase checklist, which I use when looking over cars in general. 

Over the whole car I found:

One stone chip on a corner of the hood.

Broken cup holders. 

Pixel problem on console/dash. 

The hub middle bit for the wheels are missing. 

I'm hoping the PPI goes well. 

Edited January 31, 2017 by Gabe79

[allan 295]

Re the seat base if this is flattened by use their is no clearance between it and the plastic piece that covers and holds the seat control switch's in place this then brakes.

Broken front cup holders a common problem a real pain but plenty of ideas out their to fix or replace

Missing Pixels another common  problem maybe us it as a bargaining item over price. Check around might still be a couple of hundred to repair not sure

Noticed the centre caps missing really de-tracks from the look of the vehicle check again at replacement cost if owner hasn't got them and use as bargaining.

Just something else I thought of if you get a chance check in the boot around the tail light area, carpet etc. The water coming off the boot rear screen is directed down the boot lid and part of that route is over the side of the tail lights if the seals on these are not good you get water in the boot. If bad enough some real funny electrical things can happen.

Hope the ppl comes back ok ask if they did a fault code check and see if any were recorded best of luck

[Gabe79 410]

21 minutes ago, allan said:

Re the seat base if this is flattened by use their is no clearance between it and the plastic piece that covers and holds the seat control switch's in place this then brakes.

Broken front cup holders a common problem a real pain but plenty of ideas out their to fix or replace

Missing Pixels another common  problem maybe us it as a bargaining item over price. Check around might still be a couple of hundred to repair not sure

Noticed the centre caps missing really de-tracks from the look of the vehicle check again at replacement cost if owner hasn't got them and use as bargaining.

Just something else I thought of if you get a chance check in the boot around the tail light area, carpet etc. The water coming off the boot rear screen is directed down the boot lid and part of that route is over the side of the tail lights if the seals on these are not good you get water in the boot. If bad enough some real funny electrical things can happen.

Hope the ppl comes back ok ask if they did a fault code check and see if any were recorded best of luck

Hi Allan,

 

Thank you again for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it!

I still don't know what you mean about the seat.. I'll have the car tomorrow morning to take to the PPI and wil take copious photos and see if I can figure that one out.

I am not to fussed about the cup holders, I did read they are fragile and flimsy...

I did get a couple hundred knocked off the price for the pixels. From reading bimmerforums, I should be able to fix that one myself I think.

The centre caps did bother me also. I only today realized they aren't BMW wheels, thanks to Qube. I'm inclined to sell them on, tbh, and get some bmw ones. Tires look a bit worn/old too. Will have to pay attention more closely tomorrow.

I do have an OBD2 reader and Torque. Is that what you mean about the codes?

The boot was bone dry when I checked. I will look closely at the seals and tail lights though.

Thanks again. I am excited and hoping the PPI comes back positive!

 

[allan 295]

Ok a link to images of e39 front seats https://www.google.co.nz/#q=e39+front+seat+images.

The second photo shows the front seats in it you can see the seat controls and the cover panel. These covers are only held on by 2 lugs and a screw from memory. If the foam on the seat base is flattened to the level of the cover this allows contact to occur while getting into and out of the seat. This will eventually end up in the braking of the mount point and in my case the damaging of the seat control switch's

 

Edited February 1, 2017 by allan

[Gabe79 410]

3 minutes ago, allan said:

Ok a link to images of e39 front seats

https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=e39+front+seat+images&biw=1600&bih=789&tbm=isch&imgil=3f7TQrgBe07M8M%3A%3Bi5wxjDdgWa7V3M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fspeed.academy%252Fbmw-e39-twisted-seat-repair-easy-cheap-free-fix%252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=3f7TQrgBe07M8M%3A%2Ci5wxjDdgWa7V3M%2C_&usg=__nRo5kbUBQIz81VbRp1wxjZCnNPI%3D&ved=0ahUKEwi676uB4-3RAhUGNJQKHfr4DVkQyjcIMQ&ei=dz2RWPrXJ4bo0AT68bfIBQ#imgrc=3f7TQrgBe07M8M:Thier is one that

Thanks for that. Bookmarked that page.