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Jacko

BMW 130i - Birds B1 Dynamics etc etc etc

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2000+ km of road trips stuck on the old girl over the christmas break, didnt miss a beat, went up and down old taupo road a few times, even got a clean run over the saddle road in manawatu... so much fun. 

We are on track to knock off 300,000km on the odo this year, and it'll finally be broken in.

 

 

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How's are you liking your new brake setup? Did you bleed the brakes using the INPA proceedure? 

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4 hours ago, ///M said:

How's are you liking your new brake setup? Did you bleed the brakes using the INPA proceedure? 

Yeah really good, just works, naff all brake dust and with road use, even spirited, I havent come across any fade. 

Just bled them the old fashioned way with a one way valve, no issues. 

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272000km oil change (do them every 7000km) and BMW brake pad paste on the front sway bushings (as per Kevin Birds recommendation)

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Coded in the BBK to the car, +SPBR to VO, wrote to CAS and FRM, flashed rest of modules. Of note is that it worked fine, despite the car being outside the date range that the BBK was an option. 

It definitely makes a difference, no idea what its like at the limit now, but the bite point in the pedal changed and it feels more aggressive in applying pressure. 

 

Still scratching my head as to how to code out the MOST-Bus ISTA+ hanging issue, considering the car never had anything on the MOST before, just now it doesnt have a headunit that controls it (nothing)... annoying :) 

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Edited by Jacko

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2 hours ago, ///M said:

Is this necessary or optional when upgrading to the 135i brakes? 

Well I ran it for 2months without coding, and it worked fine, BMW obviously spent the time do develop new parameters for the DSC with bigger brakes though. How much difference it makes and where I can't say, but there is a definite difference in brake feel (it's better, brakes feel stronger earlier) , so it's done something. 

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Got the opportunity today to test the brakes, and coding, in Tauranga today... f**kknuckle in a van pulled out in front of me at 80kmh, I slammed on brakes at full noise, got ABS pulsing and the skippy lockup feeling.... full emergency stop. Missed the asshat by about half a metre, probably half a metre that I didnt have before to be fair. So they've probably paid for themselves :D 

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Bigger brakes don't help you stop shorter in a one-off situation, stopping distance is purely related to the friction between the tyre and the road. If your brakes can overcome that friction (lock the wheel), which all passenger cars can do easily, then brake size is not a factor.

A BBK is for more effective cooling and more consistent stopping. After 5-10 quick, hard (ABS) stops a quality BBK should perform noticeably better than standard sized brakes.

Because of the initial clamping force and lower pedal effort a BBK may feel 'stronger' (shorter stopping distance) but that's just a physiological trick. 

Some good (and some not-so-good) explanations here: https://www.quora.com/Will-putting-bigger-brake-rotors-and-pads-on-your-car-make-the-car-stop-faster-or-not-necessarily

Edited by M3AN
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Im trying to justify cost, yellow saved half a metre! Your "science" isnt helping.

Edited by Jacko
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1 hour ago, Jacko said:

Im trying to justify cost...

Personally, I'd justify it on looks. And I think that's just fine because they look way better than stock brakes.

And the half meter of course. ?

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1 hour ago, Jacko said:

Im trying to justify cost, yellow saved half a metre! Your "science" isnt helping.

Don’t worry, the massive simplification of braking systems down to its only tyres isn’t really science.

Back in the old days of single piston sliding calipers and mechanical / hydraulically actuated ABS systems the tyres and driver feel were big factors.

In the modern world of computer controlled and modulated braking systems there is a lot more to it. As you have correctly pointed out having a brake system correctly calibrated and controlled makes a difference. A similar difference between an un-trained driver stomping on the pedal or a pro modulating braking pressure.

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1 hour ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

...As you have correctly pointed out having a brake system correctly calibrated and controlled makes a difference. A similar difference between an un-trained driver stomping on the pedal or a pro modulating braking pressure...

That's a huge difference. Are you suggesting that's the difference between stock brakes and a BBK? If not, I'm lost, what's the relevance? 

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I was totally in the camp of BBK wont stop you quicker previous to these posts, but did about 20m of reading on the internet and now am expert, and that might actually be wrong as its not as simple as locking the wheel. Maximum friction between tyre and road is right at the point before lockup obviously.

If BBK hooked up with ABS can control the wheel speed more accurately, through more braking torque and clamping force, then the wheel/tyre could be held in the sweet spot of maximum friction better... which would reduce braking distance.  

Should have done some testing before hand, stock vs BBK vs BBK with coding, would be curious if there was any difference initial stop distances. 

Edited by Jacko
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37 minutes ago, M3AN said:

That's a huge difference. Are you suggesting that's the difference between stock brakes and a BBK? If not, I'm lost, what's the relevance? 

No, in your post you stated that only the tyres made any difference in a single stop.

I would suggest there are many other factors involved when a modern ABS is included in the equation. 

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12 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

I would suggest there are many other factors involved when a modern ABS is included in the equation. 

I'm keen to understand more, where are you sourcing those suggestions?

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If you "suggest" something that's counter to conventional wisdom it's helpful if you substantiate that suggestion. Martin's poke was likely to be because nothing needs proof on FB because everything there is true so 'just believe it eh!'.

It's my understanding that unless you change the master cylinder or the frequency of the ABS sensors then "modern ABS" won't make a real-world difference unless the system was poorly calibrated in the first place.

Having said that I'm keen to understand more so if you do have further reading please share.

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Hit 100kmh today, which feels like an achievement after 5 weeks :D 

Really loving the storm motorworks V4 gearknob, with all the new/teflon bushes etc in mine the shift has always been really tight, but the big lump of stainless has done wonders for the weight behind the throw

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Car threw a CEL the other day for cat efficiency, which happens when the secondary O2 sensors (post cat) throw spaz numbers. Ive seen it before when I was stuck in the wops without a supply of 98, had to run 95 :( ,which near instantly threw the CEL.

Plugged bimmergeeks protools into it last week and coded out the cat check... and it appears to have worked... which now obviously means I need to remove the cats! ... be rude not to replace them with some equal length headers.

 

FWIW, Ive had Carista/Carly etc in the past, and Protools is yearrrrs better than both of them. Pricing structure is a one off, and its way more powerful, very recommended.

Edited by Jacko
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Gave it wash prior to WOF tomorrow. This is Fusso King of Gloss applied 7 weeks ago, and it was covered in mud prior to this evening. Stuff is really legit, behaves like a ceramic but way cheaper and easier to apply. 

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Bimmersport sticker lasted 5 years, fell off in last wash so got replaced. 

Just managed to snipe a set of mint lci door cards on tardme, so will swap em in with new blaupunkt speakers and subs, driven by a focal amp. Going to take some wiring to separate the factory sub wiring from the head unit.

 

 

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Well timed project of door card and stereo upgrade. Dont quite know where the amp is going to go yet, any advice? Its a small monoblock focal purely for the underseat subs. Debating installing it the factory position in the boot, close to the battery, and then running the RCAs back and forwards down the car, or moving the amp closer to the subs and having shorter RCAs and longer power leads?  I may end up amping the original subs just to see what happens initially! 

The blaupunkt BM1402CM4 door speakers look like a quality bit of kit, particularly as the price is pretty sharp. No idea what they sound like, but the engineering is solid and the whole frame in CNCd etc. Nice. 

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Door cards look to be in great shape, good score!

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