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Secniv

Picking up the baton: ‘94 E36 M3

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Woah! Thats scary.... they were those  two prong things, about 1.5-2 years old I think... :(

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Ive heard talk of the Y5DDC plugs coming apart, but never seen it happen. Very curious how it came loose, is the crush washer on the plug crushed?

There is an NGK alternative, but i dont recall the PN. It was also damn near impossible to find in NZ without being a horrific price, so i went with the Bosch too.

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Spark plugs should be good for 30k or more depending on use.

Looking at cylinder 5’s plug it is scored on the porcelain suggesting blow-past and no doubt causing the failure imho. All the others were ok although the 2 other that were loose had a soot build up around the threads.

I fished around as much as possible with a small magnet and pulled out black soot that was attracted to it but nothing solid. Maybe the prongs have been pounded to pieces and with a new plug this residue should burn-off ?

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I believe it is NGK’s PKR7K’s but as you say they appear to be pretty rare so I have ordered another set of Bosch at $40 each (arrive Friday) and will torque them down. I’m just happy it wasn’t the coils at US$110 each plus shipping! Although they look original and I’ll probably have to replace them at some stage.

Checked the crush washers with the calipers they all appear uniform in width so idk.

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17 hours ago, mzhu031 said:

Woah! Thats scary.... they were those  two prong things, about 1.5-2 years old I think... :(

The penny dropped last night and the last person to touch the plugs was the mechanic who carried out the compression test. I’ll be contacting them to find out what happened and recovering the cost.

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So I replaced all the plugs this morning and engine is running sweet again.. phew.

A friend of mine reckons he had a loose washer go through his intake and out the other side with no ill effects.

Replaced glovebox as it was sagging and the internal plastic tray had cracked around the catch.

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Got a pick-a-part box in good working order but cover was coming off.

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So used the heat gun and scraper to take the old adhesive off.

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and applying new adhesive using a strong panel glue and glue gun.

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Viola! Also fitted replacement light as clip on original had broken.

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Oh and look what turned up :)

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Edited by Secniv
Grammar and spelling
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Very nice Vincent!  A true enthusiast, great work and I hope the Alpina steering wheel is doing you well!

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41 minutes ago, Creaver said:

Very nice Vincent!  A true enthusiast, great work and I hope the Alpina steering wheel is doing you well!

Thanks Ian. You know every time I get in the E30 that steering wheel makes the experience that bit more special :) 

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Holy wow, that's the most unsaggy glovebox lid i think i have ever seen ?

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2 minutes ago, KwS said:

Holy wow, that's the most unsaggy glovebox lid i think i have ever seen ?

It's a great photo angle and I know it was on your list to do ;) 

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It was a enjoyable and productive weekend with the M3.

Wife and I had a nice drive out to Raglan for some beach time and a drink at George’s (Good George APA nice). Love the extra power of the M3 and it’s sweet sounds when the vanos kicks in but still nice and torquey when you’re feeling lazy.

Today I did a few detail jobs around the car starting with the gutter trim as it was faded and had polish residue and marks on it. So masked it up..

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Rubbed it down with acetone then a couple of light coats of Trim&Bumper followed by a couple of heavier coats.

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Looks much better

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The headlights lenses had a lot of stone chips and pitting. So good condition pick-a-part replacements along with a cut and polish was the go.

I thought I would have to take the bumper off to get access but no..

remove front intake cover..

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Theres 6 metal screws and 2 blind rivets holding it down.

Then once removed there are 4 screws holding headlights in, 2 along the top and 1 either side of light and using a socket extension you can get to them.

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These are also used to align the lights so be sure to hold the larger plastic aligning placeholder when undoing so you don’t lose the alignment.

The indicator is just clipped on to the side of the light and using a flathead I levered it back and it just slides off then just turn and pull the bulb holder.

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The lenses are just held on by 3 clips top and 2 bottom and using the flathead easily detached. Replacement is the reverse.

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A lot cleaner and according to Realoem interchangeable between models.

 

 

Edited by Secniv
Grammar and delete surplus photos
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Replaced the rear springs with the H&R OE Sports. The 25 year old spring pads were definitely at the end of their usefulness.

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Released the anti-roll bar hangers in order to allow the lower control arm maximum drop and using a lever easily removed old springs/pads and installed the new.

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Had planned to replace arb links but was struggling to slide the new one onto the bar (same part numbers). Will get some rubber grease and have another go..

Plan next is to drop the front subframe to install the engine mount reinforcement plates and replace front springs and pads.

Thinking while subframe is out I should

1. Have subframe stripped and powder coated.

and should I 

2.  Drop sump and wire the oil pump nut

3. Clean up the sump and install a baffle. I may do only the occasional track day so this maybe overkill.

Thoughts and anything else I should consider?

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If you haven't already, have a look at the Weekends With Moose series on the Speed Academy Youtube channel. They are doing an E36 M3 Euro project, and one of the episodes focuses on the sump. The standard sump looks to have good baffles anyway, but an upgrade to a 3.2 dual pickup pump and sump would be better if you were on the track.

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Upgrade to a 3.2 Evo sump / S54 sump and oil pump. Buy these beforehand and get the pump rebuilt. Don't bother with baffles as KwS says, the factory ones are more than enough. Focus on what causes oil nut failure - stretched and worn chain / sprocket. Failure on S50x parts aren't as common as the M50x pumps either.

Would also recommend bottom end bearings if you're going to be removing the subframe, and paying someone to install everything/ do the bearings at the same time. Have recently got a quote for a S50B32 bottom end refresh and it's come to $1700 incl GST total, that's parts and labour inclusive.

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16 hours ago, Toast said:

Would also recommend bottom end bearings if you're going to be removing the subframe, and paying someone to install everything/ do the bearings at the same time. Have recently got a quote for a S50B32 bottom end refresh and it's come to $1700 incl GST total, that's parts and labour inclusive.

When you say bottom end you mean con-rod bearings right?

Sourcing a S54 oil pump and sump may be short supply in NZ I guess but will start looking. 

Was going to do it myself but outsource wielding. But with bearings I'd probably get an expert involved as I really wouldn't want to screw that up.

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Big end breaings on the crank. Doing that is also covered in the same video series (and episode) I mentioned above. 

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So I finally got around to dropping the front subframe.

scored a 2nd hand engine support

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bit of a nasty find with the subframe tho

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can’t believe the complete  bodge job that was done complete with large washer tacked in.

is it salvageable with wielding in a new piece and with the reinforcement plates or should I be looking for a new subframe? 

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Subframe is M3 specific (although buggered if I can tell the difference between M and non-M) so you're unlikely to find a replacement without a lot of luck I'm afraid.

I'd weld a solid plate on one side, a reinforcing plate on the other side and then drill through the solid plate using the reinforcing plate as a guide. That should lock it up nice and tight.

 

 

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2 hours ago, M3AN said:

Subframe is M3 specific (although buggered if I can tell the difference between M and non-M) so you're unlikely to find a replacement without a lot of luck I'm afraid.

I'd weld a solid plate on one side, a reinforcing plate on the other side and then drill through the solid plate using the reinforcing plate as a guide. That should lock it up nice and tight.

 

 

Thanks Dave just the advice I was wanting cheers.

Any recommendations as who to use Auckland or Hamilton?

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is it possible this is a non M3 frame, bodged to give the mounting point? may be worth checking before you hook into it.  Very trick engine support.  Last time we used one, it was two bits of angle bolted together... volvo lyf.

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7 hours ago, Olaf said:

is it possible this is a non M3 frame, bodged to give the mounting point? may be worth checking before you hook into it.  Very trick engine support.  Last time we used one, it was two bits of angle bolted together... volvo lyf.

The repair I understand from the P.O. was carried out in P.North by a crowd no longer in business and was done in-situ because they were too lazy/cutting corners to drop it out and do it proper. That would suggest it’s original but as Dave says how do you tell the difference..

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is there a part number on it somewhere?

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No part number I can see but there is this M3 stamp. Taking it in to decent engineering firm here who does pre-cert work so hopefully it is salvageable.

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Does anyone know if you can replace the ball joints on a pfl M3 control arm? Seems to be varying opinions on other forums.

They feel good and seemed solid prior to removing but while I’ve got them out..

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Edited by Secniv
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Yep, use E30 ball joints, they're the same and were a separate part number on the E30, not available separately for the E36.

Edit: and M3 stamp on the front subframe means yes, it's an original M3 part.

 

Edited by M3AN
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