Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
lbo99

E46 M3 ///M Clunk and Service

Recommended Posts

Experience clunk on my 2003.5 E46 M3 when i shift hard or when i let off the throttle on low revs. I later found out that one of my transmission mount is out, hence thinking of replacing my transmission and engine mounts together. I'm currently thinking of the UUC black package as replacements of my worn out ones (link attached). After doing some research, i found out that the clunk might also be caused by a worn driveshaft center mount. Should i replace it with a oe part of should i go for an aftermarket replacement that's better (oe part link attached). I'm not gonna worry about the bushings at the rear of the car at the moment as I will be replacing them when i reinforce my subframe later next year. I'm still doing my research on what bushing i should use, fixed my mind on installing CMP Auto Engineering Stage 1 underside reinforcement plate. 

Last question, my mechanic suggest me to use ELF 5W-50 race oil or should I just stick with Castrol 10W-60. Mind that my car will be driven on road most of the time but will be on track occasionally. 

UUC Engine Mounts + Transmission mount - http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/engine-mounts--transmission-mounts-package---oe-replacement-rubber-for-e36-e46-z3-z4-p1895.aspx
Driveshaft Center Mount - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/driveshaft-center-mount/26122282495/ 
CMP Stage 1 Reinforcement Plate - http://cmpautoengineering.com/product/cmp-ae-bmw-e46-3-series-subframe-mount-reinforcement-plates/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, lbo99 said:

Last question, my mechanic suggest me to use ELF 5W-50 race oil or should I just stick with Castrol 10W-60.

i hope hes not your mechanic any more.

stick with the correct castrol oil for the S54 engine.

  • Like 4
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, lbo99 said:

Last question, my mechanic suggest me to use ELF 5W-50 race oil or should I just stick with Castrol 10W-60. Mind that my car will be driven on road most of the time but will be on track occasionally. 

Come on Lester! You know you should talk to me about this stuff. 

Could be the centre mount, worth having a look at and inspecting it for play. Also worth checking the rubber donut for signs of wear and tear

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you haven't already, check the condition of the drive shaft giubo. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

S54 requires Xw-60 full synthetic.

3 hours ago, qube said:

i hope hes not your mechanic any more.

stick with the correct castrol Shell oil for the S54 engine.

FTFY. They only recommend Shell now, if you buy a used e46 M3 from a BMW dealer it will be full of Shell. If you take it to BMW for a service it will be filled with Shell.

Although of course we know it makes no difference so buy it (any good brand) from Repco or Supercheap when it's on special.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your're going to do RACP work, get the top beam kit too. 

It's now been shown that plates only shift the load and you will end up with more cracking in different locations. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, qube said:

 i hope hes not your mechanic any more.

stick with the correct castrol oil for the S54 engine.

Ye that's what I thought. According to my knowledge, the S54 should use the Castrol 10W-60 oil. I've also read on other forums that people in the states use liqui moly 10W-60 (buildjournal).

FYI the mechanic I went to was DCH motorsport in Christchurch, I only asked for a quote so nothing has been done to the car yet. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Gaz said:

Come on Lester! You know you should talk to me about this stuff. 

Could be the centre mount, worth having a look at and inspecting it for play. Also worth checking the rubber donut for signs of wear and tear

Sure thing! I'll pop in a few weeks to collect some of my parts, we can talk about it if you're free :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, m325i said:

If your're going to do RACP work, get the top beam kit too. 

It's now been shown that plates only shift the load and you will end up with more cracking in different locations. 

I just calculated the cost of buying the stage 1 and 2 kit, it's NZD 880 shipped (excluding tax). Just wondering around how much did it cost you for labour to do all that. Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did them ~5 years apart, would be way cheaper doing it at once of course. 

Work was done by Hell BM. (Auckland).

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...