e46 330ci Clubsport SSG

[Eagle 1662]

Front end finished up with poor man camber\caster plates aka E36 M3 Evo strut mounts.

Certainly nothing new about these for E36's, not much info about using them on E46's apart from being the same fitment.
Unfortunately the OE and OEM brands now appear to be NLA, so its either a genuine set at around $600 or one of the numerous aftermarket Taiwanese brands for around the <$200. I went with these B&E ones from Amazon and Rockauto. Doesn't appear to be much different between them apart from the bearing design and i think the prices reflects this. They are probably all made in the same factory.

These mounts are firmer with less rubber isolation and you feel it over certain bumps. Height wise are 5-10mm lower than my previous Lemforder mounts so more inline with the original OE design i think. The studs are also obviously longer which is good if you are installing a strut brace. I did have some slight rubbing of the spring on RH strut tower, the spring was rubbing seam sealer when the wheel was turned in a certain spot, but that has cleared up after some use. E36's appear to have a bit more room in the towers when comparing with my Ti.

I originally had them swapped left to right (more camber over castor) but ended up with too much camber for street usage, was something around -3-3.5° total according to my diy gauge. Installing them normally yielded an additional  around ~-0.8° of camber and ~2.5° of castor.

I had the Z4M FCAB's still installed so ended up with 8.4° of castor. Not worth going into too much detail on it, but the weight jacking along with the vastly increased steering effort was dangerous in certain corners and at high speeds. I swapped back to Meyle HD bushings to bring it back down to degrees 7.5°. Having tried all the castor ranges from 5-8° this feels to the best in my setup (the M3 runs 6.5-7.5 i believe). No obvious extra steering input needed and combined with the extra camber for front turn in\grip, the car is now very close to neutral in the tighter corners.  I picked up at least an extra 10kph on my test corners and around about with very little understeer compared to my previous settings. I dont know it would be like without the other mods ive done, but its a massive different in grip\turn in for very low cost.

               

 

The camber settings below are maxed out front and rear on Eibach's. You should be able add back ~+0.7 front camber via strut slots, which puts you around -1.0 degrees depending on your spring choice. I don't see any real disadvantage of running this amount for improved handling if your toe is around 0. Tyre choice and how you drive the car will probably dictate whether you should run it these or not.

 

CMP Monoballs - I've done over 100km on all sorts of crappy NZ B-roads and these are exactly as advertised. Rear end now much more stable\planted\composed, it does not jitter around noticeably and bump steer is reduced on all road surfaces. With my current setup i can now counter steer mid corner without the feeling like its loosing grip. On smooth seal at high speeds its a similar feeling. The extra camber, castor and chassis braces have probably helped to a degree but i think its mostly the new RTAB's at work here. They certainly are controlling the rear alignment like they claim to do. Even quite noticeable under normal road road driving, much more relaxing with less steering wheel movement. Long service life and much easier to bolt up the trailing arm bracket with no preload or alignment make these i must have IMO. They are expensive for what they are but you are getting good benefits for a few hundred. Makes me wonder why BMW didnt use them in the CSL.            

Only disadvantage which is widely reported is driving over sharp bumps - square seal patch edges, reflectors, sharp curbs etc produces a rear end whack\thump similar to stiff bushings. May not be the best mod if you driving a lot on crappy roads or want max comfort\quiet, but the benefits easily outweigh that.

[Sammo 2544]

This thing is getting so dialled in!

[Eagle 1662]

Yeah once the solid subframe mounts are in its done in suspension dept. Besides better dampers, i can't think any other tweaks that will yield much of an increase without deviating too much from the factory ride and needing certs. Custom springs & dampers to dial it in to suit would be great, but the cost wouldn't be worth it for a car like this. TRW's perform decent on these springs and are that cheap that you can replace them every 50,000km.

[Harper 547]

I've been thinking of doing both solid subframe mounts and monoball rtabs as well next time I drop the subframe, glad to know they are worth while. I'll go with CMP for both since I'm lowered and have camber plates.

Love the colour of this, wish there were estoril m3s in nz.

Edited January 9, 2023 by Harper

[Eagle 1662]

Yeah CMP are the cheapest on market too. Hopefully they back in stock when you want them.

[Vass 830]

Messaged CMP a couple of weeks ago, Cayn told me the subframe bushes should be back in stock early Jan so hopefully not too far off now. 

[Eagle 1662]

Got the cover panel installed. Went to Mosen's here in Hamilton and Kerry let me cut it out. Wasn't easy getting a cutting it out with a clean cut, there are spot and mig welds along the edge and tools weren't the best for job. I also had to cut it in half and joint in when welding it in. I thought id try one of those air nibblers which are good as they don't distort the metal, not the most precise\neat things for trimming edges so i messed up cut too much off in some spots.

When it's seam sealed and hidden it's not a big deal given its only a cosmetic panel. Sedan\touring have strenthening? indentations on the ends, coupe panels dont.

If i had to do it all again i dont think id bother with the rear brace, im not convinced the benefit is worth the labour for this car. The front brace and the rear chassis legs are much less invasive to prep and install and fix the issue especially weaker fronts.

 

You do see evidence of the front brace from the boot (trim raised due to spare) but if you have the liner then its basically hidden

  

[Eagle 1662]

Foam in the RHS lower bolster was starting to cave in at the top.  Many SR seats use the same piece and its easily available from the Capital Seating in the UK for ~$160. Very little effort and straight forward to replace so why not. The SR3 seems to be getting more comfortable so im sticking with it for now. Will try it again on some 1hr+ drives.

[Eagle 1662]

Aliexpress USB charging. Cheapest mod yet at $10. Not something you need often but handy when you do. Dremeled out the cig lighter hole and filled down the + terminal so i can use the OE plug. Nice and stealth and can be switched off and on. 

 

ATE handbrake shoes and hardware. Heard a slight drag on L\R when the boot rim was off when the wheel rotates to a certain spot. Could be the the disc but thought id replace them first since they are cheap. Will have to bed them in at some point and recheck the noise. 

[Vass 830]

7 hours ago, Eagle said:

Aliexpress USB charging. Cheapest mod yet at $10. Not something you need often but handy when you do. Dremeled out the cig lighter hole and filled down the + terminal so i can use the OE plug. Nice and stealth and can be switched off and on.

Quite like the look of that. I charge my phone pretty often but would be good to be able to close the lid when not in use too, unlike when using a plug in charger.

Does it turn itself back on every time you start the car though?

[Eagle 1662]

No. Haven't started the car but given the cig lighter is constant 12V it stays on or off regardless of ignition key position, just like a normal toggle switch.

[Eagle 1662]

IRP solid subframe mounts installed. Froze them over night and they went in very easy.

While i had to had the subframe mount i decided to check some spot welds in areas that CMP mentioned. Found a couple of failed ones i had missed as they are covered in seam sealer. 

Also got messy with a wire wheel and angle grinder to shave my mess i had previous made with the seam sealer. Much tidier now.

Left the car out in the rain for 24hrs during that wild weather we had a couple of weeks ago and it did not like it. It had previously had a very small strip of clear coat failure near the front of the bonnet but now its really fubar. Can only assume water has got under into it combined with the heavy rain\ wind caused it to sh*t itself. Never seen anything like it and to fail so quick. I regret not leaving it in the garage now as it makes the stone chips look pleasant.

I predict at least a front end respray in my very near future.  

 

 

[hunter 408]

Thats Toyota Corolla's level of clear coat failure. Maybe it has had a respray in the past? 

[Eagle 1662]

Yeah suspect it may of given the roof and front end and roof are slightly different shade of Estoril 

[Eagle 1662]

Finally got it back together and driving. I had an assistant helping me put the subframe in and it got it caught on one of the front studs and bent it slightly. I had undo it from the body to release the threads were caught inside the mount (These aftermarket alloy parts seem much softer than BMW bits). Ordered some brand new studs. lock nuts and bolts and did it by myself the second time with more patience, it went it fairly easy with some raw hide hammer persuasion.

Solid bushings. These have certainly modernized the car as claimed. Rear end wag\disconnect between front and rear is reduced and car is more composed with more grip in all driving, will be even better with the alignment redone. Driveline slop is reduced also when shifting and accel\decel. Id imagine with a high end dampers and springs would really do it justice with all the other supporting mods.

Only downside (for me at least) is the added NVH\knocking from diff backlash etc. Its much more pronounced due to no rubber isolation and i can also hear more rumble and a whine from the diff at certain speeds\frequencies, especially around 110-120kph (bearings arent the best). I will have to look into putting my helical into my old diff to try and reduce it as i dont think i could live with it long term.

ZF detents. Decided to do these while the box was out. Special thanks to @Vass for the tool loan. Mine weren't bad as such but doing all the detents has improved the shift quality more than i expected. I can see how these boxes get blamed for vague shifting. With all new bushings, detents and E60 shifter its the best stock'ish config BMW manual box ive driven. 

E36 M3 flywheel\clutch. Wanted to try the last M5X BMW to use a dual mass flywheel with conventional clutch. The M54 etc SAC pressure plate isn't the worse but has a stiff travel with little feel. The E36 M3 pedal effort is noticeable reduced and you can feel the engagement point off the floor far better. Makes it easier to drive in general combine with all the other related things.   

At this point i think its already at the OE+ type build (give or take). I drove a guys typical E46 the other day and this feels like a different car, for better or for worse.       

[Eagle 1662]

Picked up a single Recaro SP-JC seat on fb for fairly cheap to replace the SR3. The SR3 is clearly superior for sprinted driving, but with the solid subframe mounts the body roll is much reduced so something a bit more livable makes sense more of the time.

Its certainly a nicer and well featured seat compared to the average Recaro whilst still being light. The bolstering\support isn't very aggressive, slightly improved over stock sport seats i reckon with added shoulder support but slightly flatter base bolstering, basically a SR7-F.  Feels so much nicer to sit in though, definitely got VW\Audi style Recaro vibe to it. Fits in the E46 better with good clearance for bolsters and airbag tensioner. Unfortunately like the SR3 it still sits about 1 inch to low for me, but its a small issue.

Features include - electric recline, cooling and heating function on the remote and a manually inflatable lumber bladder with thigh support on bottom. Manually folds forward too which is a must for me in a coupe and you dont have to hold it forward like the SR3.

Also matches the passenger seat better than i expected despite the Recaro branding and red stitiching

[Sammo 2544]

Seat looks right at home - this thing must be driving so good now!

[Eagle 1662]

14 hours ago, Sammo said:

this thing must be driving so good now!

It is but honestly i find my 318ti auto is still more enjoyable to drive with the same purple tag rack, classic case of newer=better but less enjoyable. Something im sure you can understand when you 'downgraded' from your E46 to the E30. 4 cylinders having lighter front just adds to E30\Ti experience. I dont think its much slower if at all in the tighter corners despite being mostly stock.

[Sammo 2544]

2 hours ago, Eagle said:

It is but honestly i find my 318ti auto is still more enjoyable to drive with the same purple tag rack, classic case of newer=better but less enjoyable. Something im sure you can understand when you 'downgraded' from your E46 to the E30. 4 cylinders having lighter front just adds to E30\Ti experience. I dont think its much slower if at all in the tighter corners despite being mostly stock.

Interesting - E30 is definately more 'fun' but E46 is fun as well and more well rounded.

I am tossing up putting a purple tag in the E30 at some point, although not dying to go through the cert process.

Stock rack is obviously slow but mines a little vague around centre too - maybe a rebuild would help?

Edited April 2, 2023 by Sammo

[Eagle 1662]

54 minutes ago, Sammo said:

Interesting - E30 is definately more 'fun' but E46 is fun as well and more well rounded.

I am tossing up putting a purple tag in the E30 at some point, although not dying to go through the cert process.

Stock rack is obviously slow but mines a little vague around centre too - maybe a rebuild would help?

Yeah i agree that E46 certainly ain't boring and is far more well rounded for sure, but the semi trailing arm is just more lively, the car weights 200-300kg less, better weighted steering, mechanical throttle etc. 

The stock E30 and E36 racks just feel rubbish compared to purple tag when you drive them back to back. Its just how they are id say rather than wear so long as there is no play in it. 

[Eagle 1662]

For those interested - BMW alignment with the E36 M3 strut mounts at max positive camber. Ends up basically the same figure as stock mounts\springs with max factory negative camber, but with the nice bump in caster.  Front does appear to have less grip in certain corners with less camber, but it tracks better at high speeds on rutted roads with a proper alignment. For <$250 it does alot for the money.

[Eagle 1662]

I was getting increasing on center vagueness when driving and slop when rocking steering wheel with engine off. Moving the shaft at the firewall produced excessive movement  Removed the column and traced the play to plastic bushing in the lower steering column behind the steering angle sensor. Checked out a couple local E46's and @Vass send me a video of his, both had much less movement than mine.  Got a replacement low k one from E46 M3 Nick Weitz is wrecking. Steering is significantly improved, now precise and a nice weight to it now. Feels like my E36 with the same setup.  

No before video but here is the new one. Still some movement but i think that is mainly due to poor\cost cutting design, not very well supported down low + plastic bushings. No parts listed to rebuild so probably one of those issues will start to occur more frequently as E46's age. IIRC @Sammo had a similar issue with his E46, presumably obvious noises would occur once the wear is great enough.

[Eagle 1662]

I was getting sick of the diff noises so i swapped the mfactory helical back into my original diff. Decided to do it myself to avoid the shipping hassle and buy the shim kit with new output shaft bearings from difflabs.au. Since i had 4x original shims from both diffs including thinner shim i could build up, figured i could make most sizes without needing to get them machined down. 

After a bit of fiddling around with different sized shims i got the backlash and gear pattern looking like it was originally. Backlash @ 0.09mm down from 0.14mm so clunking\knocking mostly gone or much quieter. Unfortunately still have a similar gear whine when cruising ~110kph. Both diffs have wear to some extent, but i can only guess based on the previous diff being ok before the solid subframe mounts and\or meyle front diff bushings that they are allowing more noise to be transmitted.

The plan now is to convert most of the suspension back to 'OE' spec, chuck in a replacement open diff and sell it when economic outlook is better. I did plan on keeping this but i find i don't really desire to drive the car after converting my Ti to manual. Given the state of the average road these days its very harsh (compared to that) and only really enjoyable when driving fast\hard on decent condition ones. The 80's BMW ethos is what drew me to them nearly 2 decades ago and why i had E30 for 8 years.

 

 

Edited September 9, 2023 by Eagle

[Eagle 1662]

Tried a couple more diff's since the last post but results were similar to the above. Im current running a 3.15 ratio from a 325i which provides a little more pep with no real noticeable downsides (unless you care about 0-100 times as it taps out at around 98kph in 2nd gear). I think ill end up taking it to KBM at some point and get him to check it out, decide whats in the best condition and maybe swap the helical over if it checks out. 

I had a weird surge at low rpm when the engine was cold so decided to check the fuel system first. I discovered it was loosing pressure fairly quickly after shutdown(10mins it would be at 20psi) so decided to replace it with another VDO unit(after checking the fpr and injectors). Pressure now holds ~47 psi for at least 15mins and surge is gone too. Unfortunately the pump is much louder than the original VDO one, you can hear it whining as you step out of the vehicle or have the idle down at idle. Guess ill have to live with it for the time being and monitor it. 

Decided to try the CMP solid steering coupler. I hate the look of chrome plated bolts and nylock nuts and like OE look so OE bolts and new locknuts instead (did need a little extra filling to fit). Painted it in high temp silver paint to match. I had to disassemble it because i forgot to mark it and the BMW parts diagram showed the wrong clocking of the 2 halves. Wasnt expecting a massive improvement given i had new OE unit but its certainly reduced the vagueness and it feels much more like my E36 now. I did strip, clean and re-grease the steering rack too but upset the pinion seal in the process and created a leak. Ive ordered a used unit LPSR in Australia this time. They double the price($600) but at least they are inspected and tested, much better than wasting my time\money traveling around gambling. Ordered a seal kit from them too so i can repair my old for backup.

Sump gasket started leaking more than i like that was changed out. Sump had no sludge as expected and just typical carbon staining. Was going to check the oil pump and nut but ran out of time, my poor man engine support was taking up lots of floor area making it hard to move around. Its a very rare failure for a normal car as far as im concerned.

With all this cold foggy weather about i decided to try a DMSO engine flush based on a E46 fanatic thread - here. Can't say i remember reading about DMSO flushes but its supposedly a common procedure Russian etc. Ive never really accurately monitored my oil consumption, but it does use some when you are on the Waikato autobahn with higher rpm and vacuum conditions. I didnt notice the oil carboned up\got dirty very quickly when i did an oil change awhile back. I know the vehicles history and have had the valve cover and sump off so no real sludge to worry about. Id say most used M54 engines could benefit from this treatment if nothing more than a preventive measure in helping oil rings out.  

Lots of variations of this procedure but I did it slightly different due to time constraints and circumstances. I used 20W-50 because it was the cheapest i could get, but i agree with another poster that DMSO doesn't noticeably thin the oil so any cheap 10W-40 or 15W-40 is likely fine. Its hard to avoid inhaling some of the nasty vapors when draining oil on the ground especially the first drain, you could probably use a respirator if you were concerned.  Fans coming off and on at various stages but coolant temp never went over 95 degrees. Having a refreshed cooling system is piece of mind and doing it in winter helps, i just periodically checked on it every 10mins. 

My Engine was already filled with fairly fresh oil and filter after sump gasket so wasn't going to waste it. It was quite darkened given id only done about 10km on it. 

• Drove car for ~15mins to warm up oil. Drained ~1L of oil and mixed with 400ml to DMSO and re-added to oil
• Idled for 50mins. Drained oil and replaced filter. Re-fill with 6.5L 20W-50.
• Idled for another 50mins. Increased revs to 1500rpm for a couple of mins every 10mins.
• Drained oil and replaced filter. Filled with 5W-40 and idled car for 5mins.
• The following day drove 20mins on the highway mostly in the 2.5-3k rpm range. Drained oil and replaced filter. Filled with 5W-40
• Drove same route as above with a some town driving, approx 20km. Inspected oil and filter (Minor carbon particles present in both) 

Light wouldn't penetrate the first jar it was so black with carbon. Filter is black with dissolved carbon and moderate carbon particles.

The second had much better looking oil with the filter being less black and noticeably less particles.

3
3rd and 4th were much the same with pretty clean oil and filter with some minor carbon particles still being caught

Oil now looks like new and i expect it to stay much cleaner with the filter catching the bulk of the remainder particles. No leaks and will monitor consumption from now on to get an idea. I'll do the second stage cylinder clean at next oil change - here 

 

[Eagle 1662]

BBS RG-R 18x8.5 ET38 on 245/40's

Been on the look out for a decent set of wheels for awhile. E36\E46 wheel selection is pretty rubbish in terms of availability you if want something different in reasonable offset\tyre size. Saw these on locally on facebook along with set of similar LM's. Looking at photos i decided the RG's would suit a newer car like the E46 better. They are forged wheels at just over 8kg compared to 10-11kg style 72's, very light even with the tyres. Originally they had silver centers which i would of preferred, but beggers cant do choosers and they have been freshly power coated. Tyres fill the front wells great but do touch the fender lining under full lock as expected. Will be swapping out for current ones then moving over to a 235/40 square at some point. Gold center caps to replace to red ones if i can find some at reasonable price, otherwise ill swap BMW ones onto them. 

 

Part 2 of the DMSO clean. Didnt get everything as hot as id like and things were cooling down to fast to do a real throughout job but it works (completely black before). Used a vacuum bleeder to suck the fluid out which worked great, engine fired up instantly after cleaning  Will do a another round in warmer weather to finish it off. Compression test after cleaning was 175-180 psi on all 6. Engine certainly feels stronger after doing these cleans, but be prepared for the exhaust to stink\smoke for ages if you do this part. 

Edited July 21 by Eagle