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Sammo

E46 330ci Manual

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On 4/26/2020 at 12:33 PM, Sammo said:

So far, so good, got the Vanos seals, oil line and oil filter housing gasket all done. 

Not too hard at all really, even I didn't cock it up!

Hardest thing was actually getting the old seals out from the vanos pistons without scratching the edges up, but would have been easier with a scalpel. I smoothed out a couple of scratches with 2000grit. 

Difference in 'tightness' in the cylinders with old vs new seals wasn't as massively different as I expected? 

Car feels strong, guess I'll take a while to break in the seals with the lockdown in place - definately easier to take off smoothly with less throttle input. 

Want to say it pulls a little cleaner from down low (placebo?) but car never felt weak with the 3.38 diff. 

Next step will be fuel filter and a fresh tank of 98 ? (had been using 95 up until now as I have a Z fuel card but have since given it to the wife). 

Pulleys and tensioners seem to be on the way out as well so another FCP order coming up ? hopefully that helps with an ugly howl I get under load at times. 

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You can usually get a bit more life out of the pulleys if you pry off the bearing covers and pack them with grease. That one sounds well passed it though.

I definitely noticed an improvement doing the vanos seals with low end torque. Wouldn’t need to change up a gear anymore cruising up the harbour bridge at 80ish km/h.

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On 5/5/2020 at 2:04 PM, BreakMyWindow said:

You can usually get a bit more life out of the pulleys if you pry off the bearing covers and pack them with grease. That one sounds well passed it though.

I definitely noticed an improvement doing the vanos seals with low end torque. Wouldn’t need to change up a gear anymore cruising up the harbour bridge at 80ish km/h.

Two new tensioners and pulleys and new idler pulley arrived yesterday - couldn't beleive how much smoother and damped they are - will put on in the weekend.

Car definately feels better with the Vanos seals, just smoother and a bit stronger - particulary taking off from stop, almost feels like the clutch engagement point improved - never was able to take off without a fair amount of thottle before - its smooth as now.

 

Edited by Sammo
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1 hour ago, BreakMyWindow said:

Fuel filters getting blocked i think is another internet myth. There’s a filter on the end of the pump to catch any larger particles, then there’s a fine media filter inside the fuel filter. Old fuel filters you’ll see black dirty fuel pouring out from the inlet side and clean fuel on the outlet side towards the injectors. 
 

You’d have much more pronounced symptoms if either of the filters were blocked. 
 

Still a good idea to change them though.

Mates 328i e36 was having missing and hesitation problems, and we swapped out the fuel filter and problem solved.

It was really hard to blow through the old filter.

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3 minutes ago, zero said:

Mates 328i e36 was having missing and hesitation problems, and we swapped out the fuel filter and problem solved.

It was really hard to blow through the old filter.

Didn't notice a significant change when I replaced it but at $50 and given its age certainly won't have hurt! 

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Yea, its a service item. And replacing an old partially clogged one will put less strain on the rest of the fuel system.

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Replaced my AC and drive belt tensioners and pulleys and idler pulley today - really easy little job. Old pulleys were toast and the E46 mechanical tensioners come all-together hence doing them all.

 

 

Edited by Sammo

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I've been wanting to do something with my intake for a while to give me some more induction noise to tide me over until I get to the exhaust.

Originally planned on doing a long tube CAI but no room with the Xenon ballast in the way and seemed like a pain to relocate, so decided on the dirty old short ram with a heat shield to stop it being a Hot air intake.

Was going to try building my own with aluminium sheets but saw a cheap E46 for sale on Facebook that happened to have a nice intake on it that I had seen online but wasn't about to pay $600 odd all up to get shipped to NZ.

Its the Cosmo racing one pictured below but not the carbon fibre finish. Got a deal done with the guy and swapped for my stock airbox plus a few $$.

I like this design as its fibreglass, really nicely moulded, utilises the factory air  scoop and actually blocks off the expansion tank as well (most don't).

I also had some really good 10mm foil backed foam insulation I bought a few years ago to insulate my home brewing kettle - a very effective product as brewing, I'm boiling for 90 minutes and this retains heat and is cool to the touch while 35 litres of 100c beer bounces around inside - very sticky too, has lasted 4 years plus on the brewing set up.

I used this on the outside of the heatshield to get a much better thermal barrier than 3mm of fibreglass and then finished with aluminium tape to finish - should be very effective at reflecting / blocking engine bay heat.

So it looks pretty good, sounds great and shouldn't be losing any ponies - quick test with my dual probe smoking thermometer showed about 9-10c differential in the air compartment vs engine bay after a 5 minute ideal - worst case heat soak scenario really.

Next step is a new coupler for the filter pipe (one with it is shot) , new 'boot seal' for the top to get a better seal with underside of the bonnet and might also run some 3" flexible ducting up from the brake duct.

 

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This afternoon also installed an Ireland Engineering poly Steering coupler. 

Had to drill out the rivets in the factory one and bolt this bad boy in place. 

Job wa a bit more niggly than expected but got it all sorted. 

Only got out for a quick test around the block and felt tight and direct, not harsh at all - steering was a little spongy before at times so hoping this comes into its own on the open road. 

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Do you notice any improvement from the intake?

Its nice to see someone take heatsoak seriously.

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11 hours ago, zero said:

Do you notice any improvement from the intake?

Its nice to see someone take heatsoak seriously.

It's hard to say to be honest, placebo and all... It definately sounds faster! 

I was also able to get the back out a touch on a hard 1st to 2nd shift in the dry whereas before it would only chirp the tyres. 

Main idea was get some sound without making the car slower ?

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So... today the 330ci got some overdue love and attention. I've been getting gloss withdrawals due to the Auckland water shortage but decided to buy some rinse-less wash and give it all ago.

So gave the car a wash, dry, light hand polish, IPA wipe down, trim restorer then a fresh coat of sealant. Went to town on the interior glass too and got rid of the last hardest to reach glue remains from tint I removed as well.

Had to take a few snaps of course to justify the effort

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Edited by Sammo
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Mint.

I also bought some 'ONR' due to the water restrictions. But haven't had a chance to use it. Now i've gone so deep I'm worried it's too dirty. But just watched a video claiming it's all good on a really dirty car. 

FYI I see washworld in Greenlane is open.  But the one on Quay St has been looted and it closed/trashed [sad]. My idea was to blast everything off and then ONR. 

What is your review on the rinse-less wash? Comfortable that it's 'safe'?

 

PS - yellow 'city lights' - I've tried, not sure about it ??!?!?

Edited by m325i
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3 minutes ago, m325i said:

Mint.

I also bought some 'ONR' due to the water restrictions. Bit haven't had a chance to use it. Now i've gone so deep I'm worried it;'s to dirty. But just watched a video claiming it's all good. 

FYI i see washworld in Greenlane in open.  But the one on Quay St has been looted and it closed/trashed [sad]. My icea was to blast everything off and then ONR. 

What is your review on the rinse-less wash? Comfortable that it's 'safe'?

 

PS - yellow 'city lights' - I've tried, not sure about it ??!?!?

Yup, I got Car Pro ECH2O and used multiple micorfibre towels - went well but I did give it a quick blast at wash world first because it had loads of road grime and in the wheels. 

Went well, think it will be fine for a maintenence wash  (i.e so long as the car isn't genuinely dirty). 

BTW that was just the light on but ignition off setting, usually  when car is on the xenons (bluish) are the normal lights but though this looked better with the gold interior ?

 

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Put some Euro Plates on today - a nice finishing touch IMO, although did have to drill and screw due to the raised mounting points on the rear.

Some white head screws will look better.

All going to plan will be installing new shocks springs this weekend with fresh mounts / reinforcement plates / bumpstops and CABs.

 

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Edited by Sammo
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Why not get europlate holders? No drilling required

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49 minutes ago, Gaz said:

Why not get europlate holders? No drilling required

Didn't realise there was such a thing - only the surrounds?  may have got a little excited when they arrived earlier than expected this morning...

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All been there! Just rock up to your local dealer, they give them away if you don't mind their name on them

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1 hour ago, Sammo said:

Didn't realise there was such a thing - only the surrounds?  may have got a little excited when they arrived earlier than expected this morning...

Or even better, use 3m tape. 

 

Edited by m325i
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1 hour ago, Sammo said:

Didn't realise there was such a thing - only the surrounds?  may have got a little excited when they arrived earlier than expected this morning...

i might have a spare if you need it i'll have a look. can bring it to next meet. will most likely be black but easy enough to paint with a colour matched spray can

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19 hours ago, qube said:

i might have a spare if you need it i'll have a look. can bring it to next meet. will most likely be black but easy enough to paint with a colour matched spray can

Thanks man - all good though ?

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On 7/27/2020 at 7:03 PM, m325i said:

Or even better, use 3m tape. 

 

Did you tape your rear? Mine has the two circular mounting holes that are raised from the panel a good 5+mm?

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the best method I found is to use a euro plate mount but if you dont feel like paying for that or prefer a plate only clean look, you can use some thick double sided 3m tape with a few layers on top and bottom without the sticker peeled to provide a kind of spacer and use some more tape with it peeled to get it "over" the little circular bumps.

Its all good to do it this way until you have to remove the plates for whatever reason then you end up bending the aluminium trying to get the tape off

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@qube thanks - think I prefer the plate only look so it doesn't get too cluttered, so may look into the thick tape method

 Rear plate currently sits too high (i.e. closer to the boot handle than I would like) due to the location of those holes and me being in a rush to slap them on...

I am loving the euro plate look though.

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B8F734B5-264E-4FA3-9797-BCE7550C8439.jpeg
 

i used the mounting holes too on this but drilled the plates a bit higher than centre so the plate sits “right”

Edited by qube
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I think I may have pulled the grommets out from memory ? 

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