M3AN 4016 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 I use 98. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 I do 75-80km per day commuting between Titirangi and East Tamaki, across Auckland. Pretty much always fill with Gull 98. The amount of traffic obviously has a big impact on how bad the economy is, I think worst I've had is 11.5 L/100km, and during the last level 3 lockdown I managed 9.2. Last week driving back from Whangamata it averaged 8.8 L/100km but I was driving pretty sedately. For those with the oil temp gauge, how hot do yours get? Mine will never get above 80°C unless I'm really going for it. I've heard talk of "efficiency" modes where it should be running hotter than that, and it makes me wonder whether mine ever does this. Maybe it's worth resetting adaptations, especially given all the bits I've just changed?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 9 minutes ago, Matt said: For those with the oil temp gauge, how hot do yours get? Mine will never get above 80°C unless I'm really going for it. I've heard talk of "efficiency" modes where it should be running hotter than that, and it makes me wonder whether mine ever does this. Maybe it's worth resetting adaptations, especially given all the bits I've just changed?? Yeah, it's bizarre mine also rarely goes past 80. It is something to do with efficiency, I read about it fairly recently, apparently the slower you're going the warmer it's meant to get? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 Mine will hit 100dC when crawling in traffic and get down to 80-90dC if cruising along. n52b25 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZ_InFerno 371 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 28 minutes ago, Matt said: For those with the oil temp gauge, how hot do yours get? Mine will never get above 80°C unless I'm really going for it. I've heard talk of "efficiency" modes where it should be running hotter than that, and it makes me wonder whether mine ever does this. Maybe it's worth resetting adaptations, especially given all the bits I've just changed?? Both of mine used to take a few mins to get to 85-90 and then sat there no matter how I drove them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 (edited) I only run 98, and reset adaptations with it in the tank, putting 95 in it results in it throwing cat sensor errors in about 100km On coolant temps, not oil, they run 80-90 in "getting thrashed mode" where the waterpump goes full beans, 90-100 in normal mode, and 100-115 in super dooper eco mode. If its not throwing errors its working, as its closed loop. DME looks at how much of a muppet you're driving like, then asks water pump and themostat to hold a temp, if it doesnt hold that temp it throws an error. Edited October 4, 2020 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 4, 2020 29 minutes ago, M3AN said: Yeah, it's bizarre mine also rarely goes past 80. It is something to do with efficiency, I read about it fairly recently, apparently the slower you're going the warmer it's meant to get? Might be your DME flash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 I'm having a bad run trying to get rid of an annoying vibration I can feel at motorway speeds. Getting near to having replaced pretty much everything I think it could be and it's not helping, especially not my wallet! SO yeah, for the last while there has been an annoying vibration, which I can only really feel through the seat rather than the steering wheel. I only really notice it in 4th, 5th and 6th gear at above 80 km/h. When I am just cruising / not accelerating I don't notice it, then when I accelerate the vibration kicks in, as soon as I back off it goes away. Engine mounts were replaced last year, before this started. After it started I had the driveshaft flex discs/donuts replaced because they were cracked and that didn't fix it. Today I just had the driveshaft hanger bearing, diff mounts, and gearbox mounts replaced in case one of them was causing it, and now the vibration is even worse! Now I can feel extra vibration even at idle, especially when I don't have the clutch depressed, and the vibration at speed is much more noticeable. The gearbox mounts I used are E46 M3 ones which are stiffer, so not surprising they will be transferring more vibration. So the only thing I can think of now is that the Dual Mass Flywheel must be getting bad? Does this sound right, any other suggestions of what it could be, before I go out and buy a new flywheel and clutch kit? I asked this on the 130i fb group too, any suggestions would be much appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Was the driveshaft pulled apart and not put back together balanced? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Is there a way to check? I didn’t do it myself, it was done by P&S auto in East Tamaki, and they’re generally pretty good with their BMW stuff! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 4 minutes ago, Matt said: Is there a way to check? I didn’t do it myself, it was done by P&S auto in East Tamaki, and they’re generally pretty good with their BMW stuff! Yeah Id expect they wouldve put it back together properly. Just read it again, and it does it in idle and in neutral?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Yep it does now, or at least I hadn’t noticed it before the work done today but very noticeable now. At idle in neutral with clutch in I can’t notice so much then let the clutch out and a vibration comes in. kinda surprised the new gearbox mounts etc could make this much difference... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Can really only be the clutch or flywheel if its doing it when car is stationary ? The valeo SMF kit is good... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Yeah very keen to pick your brain on that. Been looking at prices, and can get the Luk DMF and clutch kit slightly cheaper than the valet SMF kit, from rockauto. When I say cheaper though, theyre near enough that they might as well be considered the same price. From what I understand, the bite point should be nicer on the SMF but at the expense of some smoothness?? Given it trying to eliminate a vibration I’m tempted to stick the to the DMF. I’ve been pretty deliberate in the rest of the build to use rubber bushings over poly for the same reason, only getting stiffer if there’s a rubber version available, like the e46 M3 gearbox mounts. One of the reasons I hear people saying to get the SMF kit is to save cost, but at the same price would you still go that route? I suppose it will help a lot next time you go to do the clutch though. Would you recommend doing the rear crankshaft seal at the same time too? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Front end? Harmonic balancer? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 (edited) With the right box fluid you really cant tell the difference, its definitely not harsh. When the stock box fluid is hot you get gear chatter running a SMF, other than it it's not really any different. I went SMF to give options in the future, like getting it lightened etc, and running different clutch plates. Feel free to hit me up and compare it to the DMF, Im down in conifer grove. Rear crank seal is a big job, requires specialist sealant and tools. I look at doing mine then fell back to - If it aint broken dont fix it Edited October 7, 2020 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 7, 2020 Been doing a bit of reading, and although the Valeo SMF sounds like a good option, I think I'll stick with the DMF and keep the factory feel. I've actually always quite liked the clutch feel in this, especially once I removed the CDV, and keen to keep the factory refinement. I will be getting P&S to do this work too, so I assume they'd have the right tools for the rear crank seal. In saying that if it is still a pretty big job I don't want to pay too much extra if I don't have to! The part itself is cheap, so I might buy it in case it is leaking, but tell them not to bother fitting it if it isn't. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 9, 2020 Well, new LuK DMF, clutch kit and new flywheel bolts have been ordered. Bit of luck should have them by the end of next week and can get them fitted the week after! Is there anything else I should be doing at the same time? Fingers crossed this will be the end of the bad vibrations! In other news, I've just booked in for a driver training track day at Hampton Downs at the end of November. Details here, if anyone else is interested: https://fb.me/e/8hLtB2xTX I haven't done a track day before so I've selected the beginner group and requested some instructor time as well. Can't wait! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZ_InFerno 371 Report post Posted October 9, 2020 Is that a complete OEM replacement for the clutch then? Got links? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 9, 2020 It says "Kit Contents: Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Release Fork, Release Bearing, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted October 9, 2020 No new DMF ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZ_InFerno 371 Report post Posted October 9, 2020 38 minutes ago, Matt said: It says "Kit Contents: Cover Assembly, Clutch Disc, Release Fork, Release Bearing, all Necessary Pilots, Accessory Pack" Sorry meant the whole lot, kit and dmf and bolts. That's everything right? Where did you buy from? I'd like to save the info so I know when mine needs doing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 10, 2020 1 hour ago, B.M.W Ltd said: No new DMF ? Yes, got that as well, of course! LuK brand too. 1 hour ago, NZ_InFerno said: Sorry meant the whole lot, kit and dmf and bolts. That's everything right? Where did you buy from? I'd like to save the info so I know when mine needs doing. Oh right, sorry! I’ve got them from RockAuto, it is way cheaper than the usual suspects like FCP etc. $1210 NZD all up including GST and shipping. They didn’t stock the flywheel bolts though so have just ordered them through BMW East Auckland at $55 for 6. I’ll post the exact links/kit numbers later when I get the chance. Bought heaps from rock auto before though, they’re awesome. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted October 10, 2020 That is really cheap for a DMF kit! I often look at Rockauto but for some reason the parts prices I look at dont appear to be much cheaper if any than FCP etc Im not sure if P&S will have the gear to do the N52 rear crank seal or not? Its probably worth asking them first just incase, they were really good when I visited them, but I dont think there are many workshops in NZ who actually pull apart N52B30s (because they dont break ? ) The procedure to do it is up on newtis.info, but it looks like the sites been closed down!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt 124 Report post Posted October 10, 2020 @NZ_InFerno Rockauto is a terrible website for sharing links haha, but you can search easily by part numbers. The DMF is "DMF082" and the clutch kit is "03-059" Such a shame BMW is starting to shutdown these websites. First the VIN decoder sites, now newtis.info. Really hope they don't start going after the ETK websites like realoem next. These sites are such a big reason why I love owning BMW! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
