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Ace Of Spades

E30 M30 swap no start

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Morning Team.

Having a nightmare trying to figure out why this lady will not start..

1991 e30 with an 89 e34 535i m30.

I finished the swap about a month ago and got it started for 1-2 mins before my buddie played with the throttle to try and get it to idle lower... In doing so we heard a fairly loud plastic tick/crack and the motor died.. After we could not get it to start and put it down to a broken tps...

From there I have done a 3 wire tps swap (auto to manual) and setup all the other wires as needed. I have run a multi meter across the tps and am getting the correct voltage and continuity between the pins as per the Bentley manual...

I have pulled the plugs and have spark on all cylinders as well as fuel for all. Crank sensor is within 540 + - oms.

I tried carby cleaner in the intake and got a cough but nothing else..

 

Ideas? Am I missing something simple?

If anyone is keen on some cash/beers/joy rides once finished and is willing to come round and lend a hand, would be greatly apricated!

I'm in east auckland.

Cheers

 

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When I did my M30 swap I once swapped the wiring loom then all of a sudden it wouldn't start no matter what I did including putting the old loom on, ecu swap etc etc. Took me months to figure it out. Turns out one of the wires at one of the factory grounds had 12v and was shorting. The coil would heat up like mad with ignition on. Check if your coil is hot and PM me if you want to discuss, might be able to help you sort it out.

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TPS won't stop it from running. Seems like a coincidence. As Glenn said check distributor. 

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Cheers guys, I have checked distributor/rotor and it looks intact and no small pieces were to be found while pulling it apart. It is fairly worn but still looks to be in working order. I am going back through the Bentley to re check all fuses and relays needed for starting...

Any other ideas?

 

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Can you put a timing light on it and confirm timing is correct? 

Check compression if you have access to a tester.

 Remove oil cap and see if valve train is rotating in case it dropped the cam chain. 

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No timing light unfortunately, however Valve train is rotating and compression is above 120 on all cylinders. 

It was running when pulled from the donor car and I have not changed/removed anything off the block either. 

If it does have fuel, spark and compression, what else is needed to start? could it be a bad DME?

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How did you check for fuel? It may not be enough if pump is failing. 

 

Fuel, air, spark and compression is all that's needed. As long as valve timing and spark timing are correct. 120 psi seems low, but should at least run at that.

 

Have come across failing crank sensors that were still operational but all over the place, causing ignition timing to all over the place.  Timing light would confirm that though. 

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Does it crank and not fire? Starter won't engage...etc

I've done an M30 swap, had plenty of issues I eventually overcame. I'm east too so could check it out? Free Thursday/Friday if keen

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Troy:  First pulled the hose off the hard line and it was gushing, and then pulled a spark plug which was dripping with fuel, so I am assuming its got plenty. Re checked the crank sensor and its also showing as per the book. 

I'm heading to BnT tomorrow to pick up a timing light.

Lucan: Yeah cranks fine and could spin the rear wheels with the starter. If you are around it looks like Thursday I will be pulling it all back apart.

 

Updates: 

Re-did the compression test again tonight (without assistance) and there is no compression on any cylinders which makes me think there was also no compression yesterday. There is also now a huge amount of blow by coming back out of the intake. 

Bent valve and it's timing out is now what I think maybe the cause for not starting, will start pulling it apart Thursday after I check with a timing light...

 

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Remove valve cover and check chain is intact, camshaft timing is correct and check for broken rockers. Or even a broken camshaft.

 

Assuming you checked compresion with throttle wide open?

 

If no compression i wouldn't even bother with the timing light at this point but would be removing the valve cover.

Edited by polley

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