Getrag 220g 5 speed clutch kit needing

[Senpai 2]

i need help looking for a clutch kit for my e36 it is manual swaped getrag 220g 5 speed idk how to find the clutch for one looking for a cheap -200-$300 or like a@cheap stage 1 from ebay idk wat fits into a getrag 220 and i need help finding out if they are solid fly wheels or duo i got a qutoe of $1500 for clutch replacement if its reusable fly wheel if not $2500 for the kit plus gtst i thouht it was stupid thats to much for a clutch replacemnt so im doing it my self just need a clutch any help ?

[nick496 268]

It really depends on what was used for the 220 manual swap

The E36 flywheels are dual mass, however you can use either 
-The 318 flywheel
-The 32x flywheel.

If you don't know what you currently have as a starting point, that will be difficult to recommend.

 

[NZ00Z3 187]

I did a clutch job on my 2.0L E36/7 (Z3) a couple of years ago.  Went with the LUK dual mass fly wheel and clutch kit.  Around $2,000 for the parts only.

You are in the world of unknowns:

- What engine has the E36 got?  2.5L or less and the 228mm clutch is good.  > than 2.5L or forced induction/performance tune,  240mm clutch is the one you want.  Both fit in the 220g bell housing.

- Where did the transmission come from?  E36 and early E46 have the same number of splines on the transmission input shaft.  Late model E46's have a different number.  This impacts on the clutch kit you purchase.

- Duel Mass Flywheels are expensive, but they work well.  Some single mass flywheels have chatter in neutral, others don't.  Others will have experience here and can tell you what works.

Suggest you remove the transmission and have a look before you purchase parts.

Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.  These can be used 1.5 times on average.  They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block.  Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times.  Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change.  This leaves you in a world of pain.  Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place.  Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access.

Edit

If you have a dual mass flywheel, you need to check it carefully.  While the surface may look OK, you need to check the condition of the rubber between the 2 mases.  I think the spec for the dual mass fly wheel is 10 degree of rotation between masses. Count the teeth on the starter ring and work out how many = 10 degrees. Grab the clutch and see how much rotational slop there is before the engine turns. Count the teeth that move past a fixed reference point and see if it's more than 10 degrees.  If it is, then don't reuse the dual mass flywheel.

Edited September 8, 2021 by NZ00Z3

[Senpai 2]

The transmission is from a e36 1.9L 318i 

How do ik how much spines it has ?my e36 is a 2L 320i also thank u so much that really helped out been asking around no one really knows I really appreciate it thank u 

[NZ00Z3 187]

With that new information, I would forget about the number of splines.  Just buy a clutch kit to fit a manual 320i E36.  Check out www.RealOEM.com for some BMW part numbers.  Then you can go shopping for direct replacement parts or single mass flywheel equivalents.

[Olaf 3318]

2 hours ago, NZ00Z3 said:

Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.  These can be used 1.5 times on average.  They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block.  Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times.  Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change.  This leaves you in a world of pain.  Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place.  Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access.

This is complete gold Murray @NZ00Z3, banking that one away for (near) future reference!

[Senpai 2]

@NZ00Z3 idk how to use that link u gave me sorry could u explain it abit more ? Where can I buy the parts from ? And wat must I check so that I don’t buy the wrong one ?

[NZ00Z3 187]

RealOEM gives part numbers only.

With the part number, you can do your internet shopping in places like:

• Pelican Parts
• FCP Euro
• ECS Tuning
• Lots of other places.
• Even on E-Bay, there will be a list of equivalent part numbers in the details.  You just have to look and read ALL the listing carefully.  Just search for "BMW {the part number you want}"

 

 

[Senpai 2]

How do I find the part number ?sorry I’m like real new to this 

[NZ00Z3 187]

1 hour ago, Senpai said:

How do I find the part number ?sorry I’m like real new to this 

 

Really??

 

Go to www.RealOEM.com.  You have two choices:

• Enter the last 7 digits of your VIN number into the search tool and press enter.  It will list in the boxes the spec of your car. Click on the "Browse Parts" button below the boxes and off you go, looking for part numbers specific to your car.
• Use the search boxes to find your car.  Clue- the E36 is in the "Classic" catalog.  Once you have clicked in the boxes your car's spec, the "Browse Parts" button will show and you can click on it and go looking for part numbers.

 

But first of all:

• Make sure the modem is turned on and it's made the squawking noise.
• The glass milk bottles and tokens are at the front gate ready for the milkman
• And you have a fresh pot of tea with the tea cozy on it to keep it warm. 

You may be on the internet for a while.

[Senpai 2]

Just curious will the clutch on there fit a getrag 220g tho ? Cs mine is manual swapped but it still says auto on the system ?

[*Glenn* 854]

The only way to determine what you will need is by taking the gearbox out and to visibly inspect and identify the parts that have previously been used. From some of your questions I would suggest that this might be a little outside your abilities. You may prove me wrong. I’m wrong quite often.

[Senpai 2]

I’ll do my best I can do it but I’m waiting on a sunny day even tho I’m young and don’t have all the tools and always busy with work I’m still keen to give it a try 

[*Glenn* 854]

How are you going to get your vehicle to a safe working height and maintain that height in a safe manner while you work under the vehicle? You will need to have it raised in the font and rear. You will also need a friend to help with some of the work.

[Senpai 2]

I’m going to raise the front put it on stands then raise the back and put them on some wheels I get hella space and it’ll be safe I got no one to do it with so I’ll be doing it my self just as how I always do things 

[*Glenn* 854]

I respect your enthusiasm, tools to do the job will be a financial cost you are not equating into the repair and there a lot you probably or most likely not have. Jack it up and have good look. I’ll also add, you’ll have to rotate the drive shaft when removing and refitting, so wheels under the rear wheels are not really an option.

[NZ00Z3 187]

• Do not work under a car supported by jacks, multiple blocks of wood or wheels laying on their sides!!   You will probably not know that the car has fallen off as you'll be dead!
• The car needs to be supported by 4 (four) good quality jack stands.  I use 3 ton 4WD jack stands. 
• The car needs to be quiet high off the ground so you can get the transmission out.  Measure the height of the transmission at the bellhousing to engine join.  If the car is not have more than that measurement off the ground, then the transmission will not come out.  You will want to clean inside the bell housing and maybe replace seals and pivot pins.  Best done with the transmission out away from the car.  The less time you spend under the car the less the risk of it falling on you.
• You need a good quality 2 ton floor/hydraulic jack, so you can support the transmission when you take it out by yourself and carefully lower it to the ground.  You'll need the same jack to lift the transmission up to re-install it.  A 2 ton jack has the lifting height to do the job.  Make a cradle to hold the transmission on the jack.  No jack and you are trying to lift a very heavy transmission while lying on your back.  One slip and your are off to A&E due to the injuries' of dropping the transmission on yourself.  Or if you actually manage to lift the transmission up to the engine, it will hang there supported by only the input shaft sitting in the piolet bearing.  It's going to slip out, just when you have your head arm or body under the transmission as you try to fit some bolts.  Not nice.

Am I over dramatising this.   No I am Not!!

Been there, done the foolish silly things 30+ years ago and been to hospital to heal with lots of time to reflect on my mistakes.  I replace clutches by my self these days, but I have the right gear, take it slow and spend a lot of time working out the heavy lifts to minimise hazards.

Do not get nominated for the Darwin Awards.

[Senpai 2]

Thank u for the heads up I appreciate it I’ll make sure to keep a look out on it I will buy some tools just gotta wait till lock down is over to buy some tools but thank u so much I appreciate the advice I’m only 17 so just tryna learn things but it’s hard cs it’s just me usually always gotta do things my self but I’ve watched a lot of videos to have some sort of idea on how it works once again thank u guys so much really appreciate it 

[KwS 2425]

57 minutes ago, Senpai said:

Thank u for the heads up I appreciate it I’ll make sure to keep a look out on it I will buy some tools just gotta wait till lock down is over to buy some tools but thank u so much I appreciate the advice I’m only 17 so just tryna learn things but it’s hard cs it’s just me usually always gotta do things my self but I’ve watched a lot of videos to have some sort of idea on how it works once again thank u guys so much really appreciate it 

If you're going to do it, at least gets a couple of mates around to help. Its going to be a sh*t job in the first place, the last thing you want is to be stuck under the car with the trans lying on you and no way out.

[dirtydoogle 383]

A lot of over thanking going on here. 

Basically check what flywheel you have before buying bits, unless you plan on replacing the flywheel too 

Buy some decent quality E-torx sockets and some long 1/2" extensions

Borrow a 1/4 or 3/8 torque wrench for the clutch cover bolts (buy 6 new m8x16 cap head screws, 22-24nm for a grade 8.8 fastener, with a drop of loctite)

Get the car on stands 

Disconnect battery

Remove the exhaust 

Remove driveshaft and heatsheild (If it was put back on during conversion)

Remove slave cylinder and cable tie out of the way

Disconnect shifter linkage 

Unbolt the starter (m50 cars are bolt and nut, so get a friend to help from the top to bold the nuts on the starter side, unless you have small hands like me) 

Unbolt bellhousing bolts and cross member bolts 

Do not miss the little fellas on the dust shield around the bottom 

Remove gearbox. They're very light, you can lift them with one arm in to position while lying down. 

If replacing flywheel, please replace the bolts with the correct ones, and this will depend on what flywheel you have, these are torqued to 105nm, a drop of loctite doesn't hurt (use very sparingly) 

Buy and install a new pilot bearing, 6002-2RS is the number and available off the shelf at Repco, BNT etc. 

Removing the pilot bearing, Google how. Many methods, I like to use wet white bread if I don't have my tool with me

 

Once you've done one or two of these you can comfortably do a clutch and flywheel change by yourself under an hour on the ground. It's not as daunting as people make out