2010 116i Several Oil Leaks

[bimmerguy 6]

Hey everyone,

I got my car full service today with inspection for maintenance and here's what I got back from the workshop.

NOTES:

• Engine sump leaking oil
• Front and rear shocks are leaking oil
• Front bump stops need replacing
• Pollen filter needs replacing
• Recommend replacing the spark plugs as they are quite worn
• Diff is leaking oil
• Recommend a diff service

Here is the link to all the pictures of the above. Could some experts/experienced bimmers please have a look at the pictures and advise on what I should get fixed first.

Thank you,

~VD

[Jacko 2154]

In all honesty.. Itll cost you more than the car is worth to fix it unless you DIY and shop smart for parts. 

[balancerider 757]

Agree with @Jacko - if you want to keep the car long term I'd DIY it. A 4-cyl petrol 1 series is never going to be worth much. The N43/N46 engines are well known for leaking / stretching timing chains / blowing valve stem seals so that's likely to be the thing that kills the car.

[bimmerguy 6]

I don't think I'd be able to DIY due to my lack of experience. I bought this from a dealer a few months ago until I got an engine oil warning light lit up on my dashboard, after which I realized it's got all these issues. Do you reckon I should just get rid of it?

Edited July 12, 2023 by bimmerguy

[balancerider 757]

@bimmerguy that may be the least painful option in the long term. or alternatively keep filling it with oil and drive it til it dies

Edited July 12, 2023 by balancerider

[bimmerguy 6]

@balancerider, If I swap it for another one, which BMW hatchback would you reccommend in terms of reliability and maintenance provided the vehicle has no issues?

I have learnt a few things after having bought this car and do not want to repeat the same mistakes again. 

 

 

[Palazzo 477]

14 minutes ago, bimmerguy said:

I don't think I'd be able to DIY due to my lack of experience. I bought this from a dealer a few months ago until I got an engine oil warning light lit up on my dashboard, after which I realized it's got all these issues. Do you reckon I should just get rid of it?

If you bought it from a dealer only a few months ago, look up the Consumer Guarantees Act, understand it and then take it back to the dealer. The problems won’t have “just suddenly” developed. There’s also the MVDI disputes process, although I wouldn’t out too much faith in that.

[TonyT 48]

While driving it till it dies IS probably your only financially sensible option, you could prolong that for a while. 

1) Use a "stop leak" oil additive and keep the oil topped up.
2) find some second hand shocks and bumpstops from a lower mileage car. The labour fitting these is not huge.
3) Assuming you don't have allergies, ignore the pollen filter
4) Spark plugs are worth doing and should be fairly cheap with minimal labour
5) Ignore the diff leak, buy a drip tray for your garage floor,  and get the fluid topped up every oil service. 

[bimmerguy 6]

@Palazzo, I have flicked an email to the dealer and will ring him up tomorrow to see what he has to say. If he shows any sort of attitude or ignores, I'll start compiling all the evidence and will lodge a complaint via MVDI.

Meanwhile, I'll follow @TonyT's suggestions and continue driving it while I look for other temporary options.

 

 

Edited July 12, 2023 by bimmerguy

[Jacko 2154]

There really isnt a small economical 1 series that isnt going to get slaughtered at being small and economical compared to something like a Corolla/Mazda 3/Other Japanese/Korean generic small car etc..

Most reliable 1 series will be 130i of the E87 shape, still not without issues, but they are also worth fixing... where as a 116 really isnt unfortunately. Could be a solid argument made for a 120d/123d as well, as the diesel 4 pots are better than the petrols, but still have issues, and it depends hugely on how you drive (not happy at city driving for instance). 116 is really the worst of the lot  . F20 shape is more modern, but still have issues. 

 

As above, go throw the CGA at your dealer and tell him to fix it. 

 

[bimmerguy 6]

@Jacko, I agree since I had a Honda Fit before this one, however the drive experience is something that cannot be compared to the BMW's, especially the whooing sound it makes😅

Between, I just spoke to my dealer a few minutes ago and he's told me to drop off the car at his workshop early next week to get it checked by his mechanic. I have a question, since I already have the report of the issues, is it worth persuading the dealer to get it fixed directly at the BMW workshop or for now I just drop it at his workshop and let him deal with it as fit?

 

[Palazzo 477]

You have to give him the chance to put it right.

[bimmerguy 6]

@Palazzo, yes, will do. I also got a quote from the mechanic shown below. I have emailed the quote to my dealer as well for his reference.

Once I have all these or most of these issues fixed, I'll opt in for a 1-year mechanical breakdown insurance just to be on the safer side.

What are your thoughts on the below?

[Jacko 2154]

Thats a pretty cheap quote in fairness, parts and hours priced are low. 

[Palazzo 477]

You can get the shocks (Sachs), spark plugs and pollen filter for around $344 delivered. 

[Eagle 1662]

2 hours ago, bimmerguy said:

What are your thoughts on the below?

Parts prices are acceptable for NZ pricing if they are using genuine parts. Genuine shocks are always much more expensive than same brand aftermarket versions. As above you save a fair bit ordering overseas.

Labour per hour is very reasonable but hours look marked up to me. 4 hours for rear shocks is very excessive, no idea how they came up with that number . Diff service is usually done by sucking out the old oil via the fill plug, sounds like they quoting to remove the diff and drain the oil by removing the cover,  for a diff that doesnt have to long life due to crappy bearings its probably a waste of time. Not sure about 6 hours for a sump gasket either, never done one but id say its excessive also.

[Jacko 2154]

47 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Not sure about 6 hours for a sump gasket either, never done one but id say its excessive also.

Pig of a job, cradle engine, drop lower subframe, wrangle octopus and get some out and in. 6 hrs is about what it takes. 

[bimmerguy 6]

Thanks for the insights. Hopefully, I can get these issues resolved at the dealers expense. 

[KwS 2425]

On 7/13/2023 at 10:09 PM, bimmerguy said:

Thanks for the insights. Hopefully, I can get these issues resolved at the dealers expense. 

and then sell it...

[bimmerguy 6]

@KwS, sell it and then buy which?

Thought, If I make sure to maintain it via proper servicing once every 5K and stay on top it, it should be all right for the long haul. But I think that may not be the case here?

[M3AN 4016]

On 7/13/2023 at 4:11 PM, bimmerguy said:

What are your thoughts on the below?

They'd have to be genuine BMW branded parts for me to pay that. But then I'd probably never pay for BMW branded parts, they're a rip off.

And $100 for "freight"? lol, no, you wouldn't even pay that if you imported them from the US or Europe yourself... and, if they're BMW branded parts, they're getting them locally.

Edited July 17, 2023 by M3AN

[KwS 2425]

8 hours ago, bimmerguy said:

@KwS, sell it and then buy which?

Thought, If I make sure to maintain it via proper servicing once every 5K and stay on top it, it should be all right for the long haul. But I think that may not be the case here?

Anything but a 4 pot BMW. No one here is kidding when they say those engines are well known to be horrifically problematic, no matter how you look after them. BMW had some issues with engine design at that time.

[bimmerguy 6]

@KwS, got it, will upgrade in a few months' time. No wonder there are so many low KM's 116i's floating around in the market. 

Apparently, I had bought a mechanical breakdown warranty at the time of purchase, so my dealer told me he'll get all the issues fixed directly by BMW workshop.

[Jacko 2154]

Id consider that to be a win. If you like the noise of a 116, you will love a 130