_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted September 20, 2011 The dipstick should have a plastic tip on it with a low and high mark on it...if it's missing you need a new dip stickid be more worried as to where the plastic bit went... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted September 20, 2011 id be more worried as to where the plastic bit went... Rattling around in the bottom of the sump, cant go far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
schnitzerboy 0 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 The dipstick should have a plastic tip on it with a low and high mark on it...if it's missing you need a new dip stick There is a plastic bit on it but it doesnt have any markings on it though. http://www.bavarian-board.co.uk/uploads/st...ry/dipstick.jpg If this picture is correct, then I just find it hard to know if I'm having too much oil or if my oil level is low. As unlike my previous Japanese cars, the gap between the maximum and the minimum in the bimmer is very small. So when the check engine oil level warning was on, i had a look and it was just in the middle. so I had no idea how much more I needed to add. Shall I try to fill it up until it reaches the maximum or is middle(like the picture) going to be good enough? Thanks heaps for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) The markings are the cut outs indicated as the minimum & maximum in the picture. Normaly 1/2 a litre between minimum & maximum. Dont fill over the maximum level. You may find you have a faulty oil level sensor though. Edited September 21, 2011 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted September 21, 2011 in for page 69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr. M 10 Report post Posted September 22, 2011 Two quickies: 1) Are E36 driveshafts similar to E30's in that the rear section (aft of the hanger bearing) is equal length across all auto & manual 'shafts, with the front section differing in length? 2) Do the starter motor looms for M50 & M20 match up? Ie. can you install a M20 starter with no mods to the wiring into a (E36) M50? If not, what changes are needed? Thanks for any help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted September 23, 2011 Two quickies: 1) Are E36 driveshafts similar to E30's in that the rear section (aft of the hanger bearing) is equal length across all auto & manual 'shafts, with the front section differing in length? 2) Do the starter motor looms for M50 & M20 match up? Ie. can you install a M20 starter with no mods to the wiring into a (E36) M50? If not, what changes are needed? Thanks for any help! 1) think so but not an expert 2) yes ive done that using a late model M20 starter. but you may and probably will run into issues if you are trying to mesh it with an M50 flywheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dr. M 10 Report post Posted September 23, 2011 1) think so but not an expert 2) yes ive done that using a late model M20 starter. but you may and probably will run into issues if you are trying to mesh it with an M50 flywheel. Thanks Andy, awesome. I'm using an M20 flywheel so no worries there. Anyone know for sure re: driveshafts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docile 64 Report post Posted September 24, 2011 laptop be broke so cant use diag tool. Car is having a bit of trouble starting. came out from foodtown yesterday and car keeps turning but wont start. ~battery is in good knick. ~there is fuel as it was backfiring and smells a bit of gas in exhaust and ~it feels like it wants to start and is almost there but loses it and keeps cranking. then by some miracle i got it started and drove it home. ~idles a bit rough when started but once past 1k rpm its smooth all the way. ~hesitates a bit when floored from idle as well. then I tried starting it this morning to no avail for 40 mins. my hunch is its probably the crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor. anyway to test them? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brockie123 31 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 where in chch can i get some transparent red spray for my tail light lenses on the e30? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonomayo 0 Report post Posted September 25, 2011 ^ Should be able to try a hobby shop, they sell tamiya model paint in spray cans the should be all good for that purpose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted September 27, 2011 all my little issues are sorted , but now when car is cold for first 5 mins revs go up and down and sometimes stalls? thoughts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted September 27, 2011 Cleaned the ICV yet? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted September 28, 2011 Cleaned the ICV yet? yup? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted September 28, 2011 Temp sender maybe Byron? Or, can you hear any hissing from the engine (could be a vacuum leak but I'd be suprised as the intake elbow is new)? Also, brake lights staying on could be the switch above the brake pedal gone slightly out of adjustment - give it a nudge away from the pedal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted September 28, 2011 will have a good look through in the weekend Max thanks no hissing sounds really this only happens on cold start warm shes warm no worries replaced the brake swiitch that worked fine all lights back to normal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sascha 17 Report post Posted November 22, 2011 Quick question - in the engine oil thread it says 325i/is (M50, E36) 1990-97 5w-40, 0w-30, 0w-40 Does it matter which of these grades I use? If it helps the engine has done ~155,000km. Also which brands would you recommend? Anyone got the part number for the correct oil filter handy aswell? Thanks for any help Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted November 22, 2011 (edited) Quick question - in the engine oil thread it says Does it matter which of these grades I use? If it helps the engine has done ~155,000km. Also which brands would you recommend? Anyone got the part number for the correct oil filter handy aswell? Thanks for any help I would use a 10w40 semi synthetic or 5w40 full synthetic....we use ELF products Oil filter is dependant on year or alloy top with bolt or plastic screw on top ?? Alloy top with bolt is 11 42 1 730 389 Black plastic screw top is 11 42 7 512 300 Edited November 22, 2011 by *Glenn* Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sascha 17 Report post Posted November 22, 2011 Thanks Glenn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted November 24, 2011 do all m50's have oil squirters? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted November 24, 2011 do all m50's have oil squirters?I have seen non vanos, vanos, and m52 blocks with oil squirters. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted November 29, 2011 my fuel gauge isn't working now , apparently if i put fuel in with key turned computer will lock or something like that should i disconnect battery ? what fuse number to check? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted November 30, 2011 my fuel gauge isn't working now , apparently if i put fuel in with key turned computer will lock or something like that should i disconnect battery ? what fuse number to check? have never found that, and ive filled my cars a few times with engine still running over the years. too many dicky batteries. maybe the late model stuff does, but not E30s Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjac001 0 Report post Posted November 30, 2011 laptop be broke so cant use diag tool. Car is having a bit of trouble starting. came out from foodtown yesterday and car keeps turning but wont start. ~battery is in good knick. ~there is fuel as it was backfiring and smells a bit of gas in exhaust and ~it feels like it wants to start and is almost there but loses it and keeps cranking. then by some miracle i got it started and drove it home. ~idles a bit rough when started but once past 1k rpm its smooth all the way. ~hesitates a bit when floored from idle as well. then I tried starting it this morning to no avail for 40 mins. my hunch is its probably the crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor. anyway to test them? sounds like a loose lead connecting to spark plug / a bad spark plug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted November 30, 2011 sounds like a loose lead connecting to spark plug / a bad spark plug Sorry your way off Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites