Mad_Max

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  • Content count

    110
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  • Last visited

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15 Good

About Mad_Max

  • Rank
    2nd Gear

Previous Fields

  • Name
    Geordie
  • Location
    Invercargill
  • Car
    E36 328i Motorsport Coupe
  • Mods List
    To be done - M50 manifold, custom remap, custom headers, exhaust mod, cams, CAI, BBTB, injectors, custom crank, custom pistons, shaved head, lowered, leather interior, manual conversion
  • Car 2
    E36 316Ti Manual
  • Car 3
    1996 E36 328i (R.I.P.)

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

610 profile views
  1. Lol that's a definite no no...... an electrical contact cleaner is best, a few bucks for a can that'll last years. Use throttle body cleaner for the throttle body and everything else.
  2. I'm betting it's your cam angle sensor, my 328i did the exact same thing until I repaired it. Peel back a bit of the main insulation at either end I'll bet you'll find the insulation around each individual wire is cracked and failing, it'll be shorting out intermittently. If you've got someone you can borrow a sensor from, pop it in and try it for a week, see if that fixes it.
  3. I've had a few dealings with 3 members on here recently. I couldn't see anywhere where you could give feedback or recommend people - there are a few comments made on some posts in the "For sale" section but thought I'd prefer to give feedback on all three because they were so good to deal with. @Scrambler - pedal box turned up today, thank you. Great communication from him regarding delays (hope you're feeling better now). @OP6 - have dealt with him both here and on TradeMe, both times were hassle free and great communication. @fizzychicken - another great one to deal with, super fast to pay, great communication. I would recommend all 3 of these guys with any dealings.
  4. Have you got anyone nearby who specialises in electronics? Most places that do electronics repairs will probably be able to at least diagnose it, if not fix any blown components. If you can ID the blown component I'd be happy to swap it out for you if no one else can. If not, I'm sure there will be spares somewhere.
  5. Just on a side note, if you're changing the heater core, the dashboard doesn't need to come out to do this, everything comes out the passenger side. Don't believe what the American websites say when they claim it's a day's work to get one out, I removed, flushed and refitted the one in my E36 coupe in about 3 1/2 hours.
  6. Input shaft bearings don't whine like an unpaid hooker when they are gone, they rattle badly but only when in neutral, foot off the clutch and engine idling. The rattle goes away once you hit the clutch pedal and are moving. That's just my experience, ex mechanic and having blown up several input shaft bearings says to me the whine is coming from somewhere else. I have no idea where you are, I'm in the deep south. If you're anywhere near me I'm more than happy to have a look at it for you and give a second opinion.
  7. No, it wouldn't. So the whine is coming from somewhere else, just a matter of finding out where now so you can fix it. Fingers crossed it isn't something bad causing the whine. If it's doing it in neutral while idling I'd suspect something driven by the belts causing it - most likely culprit is probably power steering pump low on fluid or on it's way out.
  8. Is it possible? http://rdtransmissions.co.uk/Category/63/getrag.aspx https://store.vacmotorsports.com/samsonas---dog-ring-gear-m50--s50-family-zf-transmission-p2698.aspx https://shop.quaife.co.uk/bmw-six-speed-heavy-duty-sequential-gearbox http://www.hackengineering.co.uk/product/samsonas-45-speed-dog-gear-set-zf-s5d-gearbox/ http://www.rwracing.nl/bmw/ Anything is possible with the right amount of money thrown at it. Is it likely? Well there's the real question. Can you confirm the whine is not from the diff or somewhere else? Is there any paperwork to back up this claim? Have you checked it's not a bearing in the box that is failing? Is it just straight cut gears or a dogbox? Any way of checking the box itself, such as draining the fluid and visually looking at the gears? I'm only asking this because the cost of straight cut gear sets here in NZ is horrendous, so unless it is some top competition car, or the previous owner got lucky buying a different box, the expense would most likely rule out anyone forking out thousands of $$ for a special gearbox for a daily driver. Whilst I am hoping you have struck the jackpot and found a straight cut box, I am thinking statistically the likelihood of this happening is slim to none. Would definitely be interested to know for sure if it has one.
  9. I'd just about bet my left testicle I have one spare sitting on my bench at home (just about bet because I don't trust my memory these days). Will be home by tomorrow lunchtime at latest so will have a look for you, make sure it's the right one.
  10. Also check the intake hose between the throttle body and the AFM, and the hoses either side of the ICV. Check all vacuum lines you can as well, a small air leak can cause the above symptoms as well as the parts Gabe79 mentioned.
  11. And so, the plot thickens..... If the car isn't in the rain/wet and is parked, it is safe to assume it is in a garage or under a carport, correct? That being the case, then my brain is thinking along a different path now.... Imagine for a second, you have had a water leak inside the car at some other stage, where moisture has never fully dried out. The temp of the boot rises, evaporating said moisture, whereupon it becomes a vapour. This vapour then hits the cooler underside of the boot lid/lip on the rear quarter, making the water condense back into liquid form and drip into the spots you're seeing. If the above is correct, then it explains why you're seeing water marks in one spot, with no apparent ingress of water possible. Which means you have had/do have a water leak somewhere else inside the boot. Somewhere that, if the car has been parked up, must be getting wet, even if it's just a corner of it. I'd be checking everywhere throughout the boot now, not just where the water marks are. Pass. side floor well, spare wheel well, every single little place that's down low, and see if you see any moisture. Moisture has gotten in there somehow, now it's just a process of elimination to find out where and what's causing the tea staining near your battery.
  12. I'd try drying out the boot as much as possible, then drown it with a water blaster one section at a time, see if you can find a leak anywhere. Jack the corner up and remove the wheel so you can blast into the wheel arch, as well as underneath the car. Go around the rear window, boot seal, tail lights etc. Check every few minutes for any sign of ingress, it has to be coming from somewhere. Or, even better, get yourself into the boot with a torch and have someone else using the blaster (make sure you pick someone you trust not to leave you in the boot......)
  13. Have you got a sunroof? If so, are the drain tubes blocked or clear? Is the rear wheel arch plastic pieces in place? Or missing? Does it leak only when parked? Only when driven? Both? Is the grommet for the battery drain tube in position?
  14. It may be the grommet through the well is missing and letting water splash up? Hard to tell from that pic sorry, it is a bit of a guess as to the water ingress.....
  15. That hose will have been connected to the original DIN battery, it's a drain of some sort for the battery itself and will run out through a grommet in the floor that's below your battery. It won't be doing anything now, no harm in removing or leaving there - either way, nothing to be concerned about.