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Mad_Max last won the day on November 17

Mad_Max had the most liked content!

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About Mad_Max

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    2nd Gear

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  • Car
    E36 328i Motorsport Coupe
  • Mods List
    To be done - M50 manifold, custom remap, custom headers, exhaust mod, cams, CAI, BBTB, injectors, custom crank, custom pistons, shaved head, lowered, leather interior, manual conversion
  • Car 2
    E36 316Ti Manual
  • Car 3
    1996 E36 328i (R.I.P.)

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  1. Try this link: might take a bit to scroll through but may also let you know what they are.
  2. Thanks Brent, will keep them in mind for future issues. I will get some and send them through as soon as possible, will probably be tomorrow. And I'll pm you to grab your details as well so we can get it up to you asap.
  3. Not sure if it's an aftermarket key or not, that little black thing is definitely not inside his key. Cool, thanks heaps man, how much are you looking at for the key? I will put it to him, I can remove his EWS module and get it up to you easy.
  4. Assuming you've removed the liner completely from the car, remove all the material from the fibreglass backing. You'll see lots of orange foam on the fibreglass, this needs to be removed completely (or else it absorbs any glue you spray on and can leave the new material with lumps under it). I found using rubber dishwashing gloves to be the easiest - they really stick to the glue so pop a glove on and rub hard. You will destroy the gloves and make a big mess.... Once that's done I found it easier to start with the front section as it's got the most corners/surface angles etc. Then just work backwards from there doing it in sections so you can stretch it both backwards and sideways. It's not a fun job but looks a hell of a lot better once done.
  5. Guy in town here has an E46 325i that won't start due to a missing transponder chip.... long story short, he was changing the batteries in the key in a Mitre 10 carpark and thought the chip was a wasted piece of plastic that had broken off, so it has gone missing. So the question becomes, does anyone know the easiest/most cost effective way of replacing the chip? Or who is the best to do it? Obviously it will need to be coded to the car before being sent out. If anyone can point me in the right direction, or if any forum members can do it, it would be greatly appreciated. TIA
  6. That's the exact point right there, chipping (for what the TA wants) is the cheapest option. Lol you've just confirmed the fact I stated, they are the same block in terms of design. Both blocks are cast iron. The only difference is in most markets, nikasil was added to the cylinder liners on the M52BXX motors..... both use the same iron compound. Both are dimensionally the same. Both run the same bearings, oil and water journals, sumps etc etc etc. The only difference is the nikasil. And yep confirmed wrong by someone else. Yeah try telling that to everyone that's put an M50 manifold onto an M52B28...... massive change in the engine characteristics. Torque curve moves to the right, hp is up, motor revs more freely. Thousands of people have done and will continue to do this swap because it's cheap and damn effective. Yet you claim it's a total disaster..... I'll bet there's forum members here who will completely argue that so called "fact" because of the change to performance in their car. And trust me, I've done this conversion, not just on my 328i but also on a rally car, and the difference is night and day...... do I need to explain to you the basics of how engines work and how to get the best performance from them?? I think you need to go back and check some facts. There is conclusive proof on the net that the M50 manifold swap is the best bang-for-buck modification you can do to an M52B28. Dyno graphs don't lie when they are done back to back with the same car, same day, same dyno etc etc. Again, I'm not arguing about a decent exhaust system helping, that goes without saying with any modifications you do. Yes there's plenty around pushing 200kw, and I would just about bet my left testicle that more than half at that hp rating are running the M50 manifold. Yep Turners can claim what they want, after all they've been in the business of supplying aftermarket parts for BMW's since 1993.... so 24 years.... yeah I think they'd know a thing or two and would be pretty conservative with their claims given the likelihood they would get sued left, right and centre, if their claims couldn't be proven. Again, go back to the TA's original question. Yes chips exist. Yes still cheaper than the engine swap you told him to do.... or the custom exhaust.... I'm happy to continue this debate via pm, I think this thread has been hijacked enough and the TA probably still hasn't gotten the clear answer to his question.
  7. Actually, factually incorrect. M50 and M52 motors both share the same common identification codes, being 206S and 256S, therefore are the same blocks. Argue this all you want, I have the paperwork in front of me to prove those ID codes, it's all readily available information. The M50B20 and B25 both have a larger intake cam, however, as the TA's car is a 1995, it will most likely have an M50B25TU motor, the first of the Vanos ones, which has basically the same cams as the M52B28. So wrong again on that fact in relation to the TA's car. No arguments at all regarding the exhaust, it can use a lot of improvement over factory regardless of what engine you have. However, keep in mind that runner lengths, shape and size, as well as design, can be used to change the engine's dynamics. The M52B28 has 5mm more stroke, hence why it has more torque. I don't think there's any reason I need to explain why 5mm difference in crank stroke makes a difference to both torque and ho, do I? So the question becomes, if the M52 is so much better designed, why then do you get a good result from throwing the M50 manifold onto it? Why does that make the air velocity "too slow" for the M50? In theory, the M52 is an overly square design (1:1) when you look at bore and stroke measurements, therefore it should not like high revs, will rev slower but will produce a higher torque figure for the available hp. The M50, on the other hand, is a 1.77:1 rod/stroke ratio, which means it will be happier revving harder, however will produce less torque. Still produces almost the same hp as the M52 though. “Minor mods” to the M52 usually start with putting the M50 manifold on, to increase air flow into the motor. After that is exhaust, tuning, cold air intake etc. So if the M50 manifold is such a poor design, with runners that are too large, why is it so effective on the M52? Can’t be the camshaft lift and duration when compared to the M50, only the intake cam is larger. And that’s only with the non Vanos motors. I do agree a properly designed set of headers will do a lot of good, yes equal length (if possible) is definitely the way to go. There’s a lot more factors that come into it, depending on what you want to achieve, such as primary diameters, overlap with exhaust ports, etc. etc. Going back to what the TA originally asked, he wants a “lil bit more power” and is looking at a chip, I am guessing it’s because he doesn’t want to spend a s**tload in swapping motors, certs, fancy custom made exhausts, cam grinding, and so on…… all of which everyone else is telling him to do. Chips bought ex USA from Turners are around $350 (and I’m positive there are other well known tuners that you could get cheaper chips from). I want to know where I can buy an M52B28 for $700 (the price of two chips as you stated) and get it installed in a car without any extra costs, no certs, nothing. On and FYI, Turners chip? 20hp and 13Nm torque increase….. a bigger increase than you predicted after spending $600 or more on an custom exhaust. The chip is still the better “bang for buck” mod.
  8. No argument there, the two are different animals to drive and yes I will always pick an M52B28 over any M5X25 or M50BX motor. However, bang for buck for the original question, swapping motors ain't worth the cash it will cost to have similar rated hp from factory but just more torque. To do it legally, you're talking $1k or more. Money is better spent elsewhere to pick up basic performance. For example, swapping the stock exhaust manifolds to M52B28 exhaust manifolds will see a small increase in torque, due to their design. A decent chip will give more top end. There's more that can be done to the intake and exhaust side of things to pick a little up here and little up there and so on, again dependant on the budget. If the OP wants ultimate performance and has no budget for motor, driveline, cert etc, then yes, go for a motor swap, drop an S52 or better in there. All comes down to what is wanted in the end and what will fit in someone's budget.
  9. Sorry but I have to disagree with that. Yes M52B28 has more torque, both are rated to nearly the same hp from factory. Same block casting. Same bore. M50B25NV has a smaller combustion chamber and larger lift/longer duration cams. If you've seen the prices people ask for a good, running M52B28 ($500 - $900 usually), then a couple of chips at say $150 each is cheaper and easier.... and no need for a cert (which technically is required for the swap), which saves another $450 - $500. And you also don't need to change engine looms, DME, EWS etc etc etc, saving a lot of time and labour. Chipping is cheaper. Do you get the same gains as the swap? No, no arguments there. But it ain't so easy just to dump another motor in there unfortunately.
  10. Simple thing first. Where you tightened the earth strap on the body, remove that and clean it right up with sandpaper, and try that. There is a good chance that that earth isn't allowing enough volts through to start the car. Seen it a couple of times before with the exact symptoms you describe, a good clean of the connection fixed the issues. Try that and if that doesn't work, start looking elsewhere.
  11. Whatever the parts cost plus fuel. Might pay to have a hunt for an occupancy sensor, unfortunately they are different to the ones I have available. As for rear pads, just need to know if we're dealing with a broken wire/sensor, or the pads themselves are really low. New pads at a guess would be $75-$90 depending on where you buy them, and a new sensor around $65, so may be better to grab both then just repair what's needed on the day, return whatever's left over and get your money back on that. Just let me know if you want to go this way and I'll free up some time for ya. Yes understand completely where you're coming from and why, some of us do have knowledge and skills - first job was as a mechanic for a Euro specialist in Melbourne, and since then I've spent the last 3 years or so playing with all sorts of things. I wouldn't have offered to help if I wasn't confident I could do it. At the end of the day, it may cost him for parts and fuel to travel, my labour is free, so not a huge outlay - and not an idiot repairer either lol. So worst case -
  12. Lol taking my time and doing it nicely on someone else's car...... one of mine? A lot faster to do hahaha. AFAIK the occupancy sensor can trigger the airbag light, as it is part of the SRS system - one sensor fails and it will throw the light on so you get it checked out. So it may be the occupancy sensor or the seatbelt sensor that's throwing the airbag light, either one shouldn't be hard to fix. Rear wheel pads may just be sensor wire not connected, or your rear pads are too low and need changed, easily fixed. Fuel level sensor won't have anything to do with the airbag light. As for the timing, well stranger things have happened but I really don't think changing the battery has caused a single one of these issues to develop. As mentioned above, more than happy to get my hands dirty if you want.
  13. That's pretty steep..... depending on the car, sensor might take an hour to change tops, and the rear pads I can swap on the floor of my garage within an hour. If you feel like a trip south (or get down to Invercargill often) gimme a yell. I've got basic BMW software and a cable here, if the car is an E36 will also have occupancy sensors. Let us know what make, model and year your car is as problems like these can be specific to certain models.
  14. Anything like these ones on TradeMe?
  15. Lol that's a definite no no...... an electrical contact cleaner is best, a few bucks for a can that'll last years. Use throttle body cleaner for the throttle body and everything else.