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Found 15 results

  1. I have a full e28 M30 manual conversion which will be available in about 4-6 weeks. Included are the following parts: E34 M30B35 Getrag 260/6 gearbox - does not have holes for the e28 sensors, the but the spaces in the casing are there, the holes just need to be drilled. Includes crossmember for mounting and mounts. E28 manual pedal box with master cylinder, bottle, clutch line. Single mass flywheel with almost new clutch. Matching driveshaft for E28 fitment. This is a full manual conversion kit for E28s, if I missed any parts in the list they will be included, or specified otherwise. This setup was in my car and running without issue. One lady owner, never thrashed. $2200 or make me an offer. I may sell parts individually depending on interest and what is offered. This will all be available in about 4-6 weeks time. More detailed photos will come around then if a sale is not confirmed. Pickup from Onehunga. Can post if buyer arranged shipping.
  2. Inherited some NOS filters. I can use the air filters but not the oil filters, so they're for sale. Perfect if you want genuine West German parts. 11421256402 x2 Fits older M30s (e12, e23, etc) $20 each or $15 each for both ($30) 11421731635 Fits e32 750i(L) Includes washers and O-ring $20
  3. My e28 is soon to be getting a M30B35. As most of you will have seen, I got a donor e34 with a good M30 and manual gearbox that's done 170,000 kms which will be going in. Engine, gearbox etc came out of the e34 over the weekend. Have been collecting parts over the last couple of weeks including Mtech rear spoiler, arches, and parts to repair some damage on the front from getting hit (working with the guy's insurance to sort it). Also just installed AP springs about a week ago. The car as it is now: Some of the damage: I'm pretty rubbish at build threads but I'll do my best to update as I go for those interested. Hoping to have the swap done by the end of April.
  4. got this listed here if anyone is interested call me 021433600 https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1417893652&ed=true
  5. I am parting out a 1982 E28 528i manual with black cloth seats and interior. I need the whole shell/body, manual parts, suspension (for now so I can move it around). The following parts are for sale: M30B28 motor - Running condition, drove it for over an hour and it didn't overheat. Comes with loom, ecu, manifolds, alternator, powersteering pump etc- $600 M30 radiator - Good condition, no leaks - $80 Black cloth seats and matching door cards - $350 Black carpet - Faded but not bad condition. Best to be seen. - $80 or make an offer Black interior dash parts - Ask for what you want Non AC heater box - $80 or make an offer Non AC center console (2 available, both black) - $80 each Ask for other parts. Have miscellaneous other E28 parts so just ask for what you need.
  6. Hi All, Have some spare M30 exhuast flanges sitting around from my build. The ports are slightly off by about 1-2mm on on side due to design change (company side) and wasn't worked out till 2nd set was made. Totally fine for stock or light turbo as runners could be put on outside. They cost me around $100 each at time but ill sell them for $50 each, Ask questions as have a lot of respect for the users on this forum and don't want to screw anyone over or around. x1 = 14mm mild steel x1 = 10mm stainless
  7. Hi All, I know this has been discussed before awhile back but i have hit a road block with my turbo manifold and wanted peoples opinion before i go and start spending $$$ So i managed to semi build myself an turbo manifold with individual runners but have run into issues on the collector end as i don't really have space for the wastegate unless i mount it on top of collector (which with my welder blowing a gas bottle, i need a new regulator + gas so that's about 350-400 i can put on that or someone else finishing my exhuast off) So check out pics attached and let me know your thoughts (Note i have a twin scroll turbo) 1. Go back to log style manifold (more space but likely wont support my power numbers i want) 2. Keep as is with bottom mount and have someone finish off the manifold 3. Keep same style but change to top mount (only issue is getting 2.5" outlet into two pipes, which i confirmed will just fit between last runner & firewall and 6/5) 4. Buy this and just get a 50mm flange installed - http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M30-T4-Turbo-Manifold-E30-E32-E34-E28-E24-E23-E9-/131806544376 5. Or go with this guys idea (pictures at top and bottom of page) and make down pipes fit - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=285809 I am personally leaning towards options 3/4/5 but i do like option 5 as i could probably do with materials i currently have and just tac together and get someone to finish off but noticed there is no wastegate (so don't know if space is there) So let me know what you think and if need be we will do a poll and go for it + anyone know any good fabricators in manwatu/welly region as i would prefer local rather than sending the car somewhere else in the country. Note: Topcat , BMWorld and other members have been awesome so far with info and i will be representing bimmersport once this is up and running (dreams)
  8. Hi e28 fanatics So I am attempting to remove the 325psi crank nut to replace the timing chain and guides etc on an M30. Engine is on a stand so yeah, great fun. I have locked the flywheel up with a chain and given the breaker bar + longest tube sitting around the garage a go but it is not moving at all. So I turned to google for options (Last time I removed one I could not remember it being this difficult) and what I found was that BMW made a special crank holder tool, which doesn't look to hard to replicate. Has anyone had a go at making this or a similar tool for the job? I am going to give it a try, would anyone be interested in the cad files after I have completed it? Would look to have it water or plasma cut.
  9. Hey Everyone, As some people know i have started doing an e28 turbo project (running gt42), i have run into some serious problem with space on exhaust manifold side due to size of turbo 1. Engine mount gets in way of manifold i had designed (turbo was going to be side mounted on right hand side in battery box area otherwise hits the hood if top mounted) Anyway this is a question about modifying the chassis to make it all fit easier or i have to do some serious thinking on how to do it. Question: Pic 1 - Would i get away with cutting this out and re-boxing (which would give a lot of extra space and figure if done right would be just as strong) or is this to much in the way of modifications that it would have to be re-certified or done by a professional (which i don't have cash to do) Any ideas are welcome but the e28 chassis has no space compared to other models
  10. As per the title. Mainly intersted in the block, crank and Pistons. Thanks.
  11. Story: So i purchased my 2nd E28 around 10 years ago now and had the plan to turbo the car but life got in the way and i had to move oversea's for last 6/7 years...So it sat in the garage next to my alfa 33 (w 1.7ltr sud engine) Now im back in NZ i have decided that i am going to dedicate myself to doing up the e28 over the next year or so then possibly sell the car but who knows (sure ill make a loss). I am trying to do as much myself, and on the cheapish Current: M30b35 from E32 (Stock) 5 Speed Manual Transmission Crap ratio rear diff ( ex auto car so great for burnouts in 1st . 2nd) Biggest stock bmw brakes i could fit under 15" rims (believe 735i & 540) Stock Suspension Exhaust - 2" twin pipe or 3" Straight off old e28 ECU - MS2 + Air temp sensor + o2 The plan: Engine - 55 lbs Injectors / FPR / MLS or Cooper Ring Head Gasket / Block (Stock for now) / Head (Stock for now) Engine Mount - Right side custom (dependant on space required) Suspension - JRZ Coilovers (or similar) , Sway bars Intake - Now Either ITB setup from M5 or Custom 2JZ Exhaust - Custom 2 x 2" - 2.5" full exhaust Driveline - LSD 3.97 (dependent on power output) / Balanced drive shaft Bushings - New all around Cage - Half / Full cage Paint - Touch up / undercarriage repaint (have a custom color in mind but $$$ dependent & access to booth) Induction - T3 Twin Scroll - HSR40RS (lightened compressor wheel) Insides - Seats refurbished / New carpet (due to leaky battery one of my family members put in there while i was oversea's) I'm in the manawatu area, so just giving a shout out as im sure i will need help down the track as im not superman haha. I will update this as i go through the build. Update 4.0: So not much has gone on since august due to issues with parts, but fuel system images below and manifold is now ready to be finalised. There is going to be another delay once completed due to having to sell another project to re-finance this one
  12. Hi guys. I'm making a hybrid m30. A m30b34 block with a b35 head on it. I'm not sure what head gasket to buy though. The 1.72mm or 2.07mm one. I've tried searching, but I've only been able to find turbo applications (this is stock NA). Thanks
  13. I need an instrument cluster with normal rev counter, NOT the eta one. Need to for my M30 swap. All gauges working. Who's got one to sell me?
  14. Hi Guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out with what the best way to go about this is. Long story short - M30 engine loses banjo bolt. Cam bites the dust. Engine has 210k km's on it Okay, so the cams not totally toast but I think it's had a good 5-7000 km's on it with no lubrication and as a result is pretty worn, only at the front though with Cylinders 1-2 being the worst. The back end seems ok but it really needs to be fixed. The PO said the head gasket was done some 4-5 years ago so I'm debating what to do. Option 1 - I like doing things well, if you're going to do a job, do it well or don't bother. So if I take the cam off I might as well rebuild the whole head, only barrier there is cost & current wear. Cost - is it prohibitively expensive to buy a rebuild kit (and where from) and wear, is the rest actually worn (which brings me to option 2) Option 2 - Well the cam is worn, so are eccentrics but the head gasket got done recently, so it makes sense to me that the techs doing it would have looked over the head when it was off and noted anything that needed replacing soon or was wearing and done it, things like valves, valve guides etc. Thus if everything still has good life in it, why waste money replacing it. No need to take the head off, just pull the cam out, regrind it and put it back in with new eccentrics.. Only barrier there how to get the cam out without the head coming off. What do you guys think is best for a car with 210k on the clock, I'm not after performance on a 7 series, economy if anything. I can do the work myself, although I have no access to a workshop and this would be the first time doing the head on this particular engine. Like with all things money is a barrier but I figure $500 to keep it in good shape is better than a new 2nd hand car (which I still have to maintain anyway) If I go the cam only route, where is good for a re grind? I couldn't find any stock M30 cams, only performance options. Expensive and money wasted because it's just my daily driver. I don't even know if you can get the cam out without taking the head off. Thanks for any thoughts on this! Much appreciated!
  15. Starting to plan my m30 rebuild and need a few pointers ..... Does anyone know the safe max degrees a m30 camshaft can be with out getting aftermarket valves/springs? ( eg regrind) Would the m30 benefit at all from cam/head work or would it just be best to rebuild it to stock spec? (going in an e30) Any common problems with crank or bearings on a high km block? (245miles) cheers ace