Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 6, 2018 Day 2 part 2 Sump off. Quiet odd, bolt torques were allover the place, some were hand tight others very tight. May have been oil interfering with the factory thread locker? The drain back tube from the CCV system would be a total mare to remove without the quick disconnect tool (1/2"). Its very tight and in a very tight spot. Id place money on the fact they all seem to leak at the same spot, lowest aft corner, is that that is also the location where the gasket steel frame is also joined.. German engineering! Will put it back together with a thin smear of sealant. I was hoping to pull the windage tray off too have more of a looksee at the innards but it requires disturbing the oil pick up into the pump, and id rather not bust an o ring and cause it to starve. Bloody hard to get a decent picture of block innards... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 7, 2018 Day.. Tuesday. Sump cleaned up, oil level sensor seal changed. Sump gasket and the sensor seal were very brittle. Surprising it didnt leak more to be honest. Getting the sump back in and lined up is a bit of a dexterity test... But once in its in! Would be so much easier to do in a hoist and with the subframe totally out of the picture. Torquing it all back down is time consuming but straight forward - 8Nm +90 degrees. Engine mounts are simple, problem is the top of them isnt keyed to the engine, so need to be tightened with the lower section already in the lower key.. Access to the top nut is a bit of pig with the lowers tight however! The old mounts have noticeably more movement in them than the new, no sign of rubber cracking but I assume the fluid filled lower section is dead. Lining the subframe up and bolting it back down is a bit like wrestling a mechanical octopus... Could do just the sump gasket in 2 days pretty easily. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 10, 2018 Oh theres a scratch. Oh theres another dent. Oh theres another stone chip. There is a reason people pay other people to do this stuff :D 2 Hours per panel.. but shes looking pretty shiney! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) A few more days of wet and dry sanding, compounding, polishing, realising missed a spot, OCDing, starting again, and its getting there. It also goes now Matt black rear valance looks pretty good (plastidipped), stands out less than the silver/grey standard colour. Engine is actually noticeably smoother with the new engine mounts, I guess they dont last 250,000k. Still have the roof to clean up, was too tall on the jack stands, and then its ceramic coating followed by a few beers. Edited August 13, 2018 by Jacko 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 849 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 Nice work. Is it just the photo, or does the old engine oil look dodgy? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 1,848 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 awesome work, Chris! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 8 hours ago, zero said: Nice work. Is it just the photo, or does the old engine oil look dodgy? There isnt really a pic of the old oil, (other than the windage plate?) inside of the sump is funny looking full of ripples from when they press it, and it reflects light strangely. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 15, 2018 Done. Beer time. Figure out what Ive busted on the front PDC sensors tomorrow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted August 20, 2018 I need to sort out insurance for this thing next week, the agreed value keeps dropping each year and Id never be able to replace it for what its currently insured at. Any input on whats a realistic figure? I roughly know what Ive spent on it in total, way over 20, but I figure I could semi-replace it for 17ish ? 2006 (Dec 05) 130i, NZ new (1 of 15) Full service history, until the start of this thread .. 246k on the clock (but looks better, even on the inside, than most sub 100k cars) Birds B1 kit, Quaife diff and the other stuff in this thread 19x8.5" ACS Type IV (genuine) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted December 15, 2018 Bit of an update, the PU bushes that came with the eibach sway bars started creaking, coupla thousand ks post install, they have some sorta cloth embedded into the internal surface and used some flavour of white grease. Dropped the bars, cleaned all the white goo out and replaced with the clear goo that came with the Superpro PU bushes (that are on everything else, and dont squeek/creek). All working good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 303 Report post Posted December 15, 2018 Anti-seize has been my go to for all poly bushings for a long time. Nicer to apply and lasts much longer than anything ive had supplied ie lithium based stuff 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 763 Report post Posted December 15, 2018 Wurth Copper Slip is the best product to use in these applications 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///M 1 Report post Posted January 7 Awesome project Jacko! I love the attention to detail and parts used. What’s your updated thoughts on the UUC front carrier and TMS rear shifter bushing? I’m thinking of going down this route myself. Have you noticed and increase in NVH- particularly gear whine? Also, has the shift effort increased? I like the idea of having a more defined shifter that effortlessly clicks into place 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 381 Report post Posted January 8 6 hours ago, ///M said: Awesome project Jacko! I love the attention to detail and parts used. What’s your updated thoughts on the UUC front carrier and TMS rear shifter bushing? I’m thinking of going down this route myself. Have you noticed and increase in NVH- particularly gear whine? Also, has the shift effort increased? I like the idea of having a more defined shifter that effortlessly clicks into place NVH - No not really, the SMF caused way more (my guess anyway, I did it all at once ,but changing box fluid flavour stopped any gearlash chatter when the fluid got warm) Shift effort is the same, but its very very direct, nearly feels gated. I drove another manual car last month, and realised how much better the 130 shift is now. Definitely a good upgrade and its easy to do. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
