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Mtech 1 steering wheel. Fine spline, bigger diameter version. Leather has some wear period correct patina. Stitching has separated above right spoke but the rest is fine. Overall in decent condition I would say. Look down upon other base model E28/E30 drivers with their peasant spec steering devices while you cruise along with your hands comforted by this ergonomically pleasant, motorsport inspired steering wheel. All for the measly sum of $100. A mere bargain, really. Pickup from Panmure.

http://stores.ebay.com/WoofersEtc/_i.html?_nkw=Morel&submit=Search&_sid=709899467 ive brought speakers via these guys and they are good to deal with (woofersetc) the space behind the door card and door metal is the limiting factor for some of the choices. If you will to cut an opening then more of the morel range will fit. sail area is better location for tweeters than m3 door location. Makes the distance between right tweeter and midbass more equal to the right ear. Consider going active on your speaker by getting two 4 channel amps. 4 channel upfront ( just use amp high and low pass filters) use another 4 channel in tri mode .2 channels for rear fill and two channels bridged for sub. Put a y rca lead in so the sub gets its rca feed from the front speaker amp. That will keep volume in check. back to the morels. So check the morel car series prices with the individual drivers available parts-express.com.By buying from parts express you may find you can go the range for a similar price by dropping the crossovers. eg tweeter http://www.parts-express.com/morel-mdt-12-1-1-8-neodymium-tweeter--277-060 mid bass if these can be made to fit ( see Zeros door build) note, one of these look to be the drivers in NZ image speakers http://www.parts-express.com/cat/midrange-midbass-drivers-full-range-speakers/16?N=21631+4294967118+4294965095+4294965077+4294964893+4294964980&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()%2Frecord[endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_PortalID"%2C"1")+and+endeca%3Amatches(.%2C"P_Searchable"%2C"1")]&PortalID=1 sub wise I'm guessing a hidden box . There is a new 8 inch sub on the market that might fit the bill. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um8-22-8-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-508 Speaker wiring. looking at wds the midbass wiring is 1.5mm2 or roughly 15 gauge. You can run new wiring via the door connector but u found this to be a high labour low reward experience. BMWs tyco / amp connector is licensed hence you don't see many aftermarket looms. i did come across this guy who mad the amplifier connector from scratch. He offers a range of plug in harnesses for BMW audio https://technicpnp.com/shop/

Ron, unless you were confusing Ducati for Harley, I wouldn't say the big dukes run out of breath. If they do, the same can be said for most engines as power drops off between peak and the rev limiter. A quick google search of dyno charts show the 1299s consistently drop off peak power about 500rpm before the cut out. My 1098 looks at tho it flat lines all the way to its 10750 rpm cut out. I've had it not much more than 260kmh and can't say its ever ran out of breath, but drag starts to take its toll from 260+ so 6th gear to the limiter may expose that. I've spent a but of time on the latest Multistrada DVT with panniers and she pulls strong up to 220k. I didn't try a top speed run in 6th but there was no signs of running out of breath. Ill take you up on the 1000cc BMW beating the Ducati on the road. Put simply you cant beat the effortless torque the big twins offer. For point to point speed the litre bikes need to be worked in comparison. Perhaps I'm spoilt spending the last five years on a 1098. Definitely have to rev the multis to achieve the same amount of pace up SH16 or over the para paras etc. it becomes tiresome if not in the mood. How would the 1000cc manufacturers go at increasing the capacity by nearly 30% while retaining reliability, emissions same power per litre outpit? A complete redesign? Bigger block, stronger, bigger internals?... issues with NVH due to the unbalanced nature of the I4? Just throwing ideas out there I'm no engineer and I don't have time to sit and read like I did when working 40 hour weeks but I don't think increasing capacity by 30% while retaining the attributes of the 1000cc engine is as easy as that. I see where you're getting at with kw/litre. Can't say I agree on you opinion of the LS motors, and others not meeting a specific power per litre out put. IMO in the age of component sharing, fuel efficiency and guilt fuelled emission control, enjoy it while it lasts. Soon the 'performance' vehicle to have will be some wank factor double cab ute on 20 inch rims, sticker pack and some macho small cock syndrome sounding name.

Just some quick updated photos of the interior.

Firstly, I like the way they look on the car. Only been some slow driving to and from work, but I like the feel so far. Sharp, but not as jerky as the OEM pads that I felt in the BM Workshop loan cars, these are easy to modulate. Feel might change once I burn through the bed-in layer. So far I like them, but need to test with some hard driving still. I've heard slotted rotors can make a noise from air passing through the slots. I notice a slight 'helicopter' like sound when cruising in a quiet street with the windows down, I doubt everyone would notice though. Perfectly quiet braking action so far, no squeak at all. Also I've got my old rotors and pads. Plenty left on the pads. No idea how usable the rotors are still. Can't figure out what brands they are. Will figure out what to do with them. Are worn rotors any use?

So was 12k now 17k, that better appreciation than the Auckland housing market.

124kw at the rear wheels wheels with just a pod filter

Yeh less than ideal, will dyno it before and after. No f**king around with M50 manifolds. Thanks for reminding me of the cost haha, just dont tell my other half as we will end up with a bigger shoe collection. Cert penciled in for January, exhaust manifold purchased and will install after cert.