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Took the car out for a drive and decided to take some photos last night before dropping it off to get the speed stripes fixed today.

Thanks all. I picked up some plastics an indicator and a new boot liner from a friendly enthusiast who is parting a car in christchurch. Then got a couple of secondhand tyres to throw on in the meantime. I cleaned the interior and discovered one grill under the driver's seat (which I had broken, pulling on it before I figured out how to raise the seats) I've done the soldering fixes on the cluster and the climate control unit and checked faults and cleared the srs light (already fixed drivers setbelt tensioner) for the faults I used an OBD1 to OBD2 adapter and the Xtool anyscan A30M. It was my first time using it and I was a bit worried because I'd bought it from aliexpress and it wasn't cheap but a couple of hundred cheaper than other places I had seen them. Anyway it seems pretty good. I found the back nut on the intake manifold was finger tight and the vaccuum line to the fuel pressure regulator has fallen off so the engine is running better. Next are the transmission issues, wish me luck.

All good for sure, I just read it as helpful advise 👍 I'm just going to split the difference and use a set value for all then can adjust from there if things look weird ... just ordered everything I need from RS (including new LED's so can try to not reuse) and will get the boards ordered this week.

Sorry didn’t mean that to come across as short - was making dinner and looking after little one at the same time and just read it back to myself!!

Looking at your thread on the electronics forum - voltage either side of the resistor won’t tell you anything as LEDs have a fixed voltage drop (approx 1.8v in this case), voltage drop across the resistors will therefore be fixed. V=IR therefore means, in this case, that with fixed voltage drop across resistors and varying resistance, the current will vary through each LED, which in turn will influence brightness (although not enough to be able to tell it would seem) so 🤷‍♂️

Aids. Makes me realise how lucky I've been street parking my car. There are a couple of little scratches, but nothing like what you've had to put up with. Sorry dude.

I think you are referring to the example in Cosmos or Cirrus blue. Toy shop purchased it off a guy called Coventry who purchased it off Turners car auctions in the early 00’s. It was a nice car but suffered from being a UK car- it was rusty. It got semi- restored with a new paint job and had the all important timing chain replaced. It had about 120,000 miles and never got driven much after - and was always available for sale at the right price. To be fair, these are now 37-38 years old. They have been driven. There are like 3 examples with less than 125,000 km’s on the clock ( NZ new). The rest have all done -160-240,000 kms. There is one in the WBOP that has done like 320,000 kms! Hard to get get a really fresh example - and the low k examples have not been available for sale for 25 years plus. The M635csi’s were my first love- and selling my old example (number 312 /524) in Polaris silver was one of the saddest days in my life. I have a register of all the right hand cars made and am aware of most of the examples in NZ. If you want to track one one down, or need some info on a car in the future- please reach out!

Seems someone has seen this and has listed their ‘regular’ auto beige 635csi for $78k 🤔

Spent some time doing basic audio crossover points and relative loudness settings by ear on the F80's audio system. Hardest area seems to be tuning the understeat woofers for to get them to blend with sub and door midbass. Focal door speakers need running in so will run it for 20 hours of so and then tune with calibrated mic. WIll be interesting t see the difference between tuning by ear verse mic. Hopefully I'm not far off.

It’s alive!!! Fired up straight away, but with a dead no.4 cylinder. got the rear wheels on and went for a spin round the yard and seems to drive alright. After “machining” down a socket to fit down the spark plug well, it didn’t appear to be getting any fuel, so suspect a dodgey injector. Will track one of those down and swap that over and see what happens and get a scanner onto it to see what else is going on.

Speaking of damage to the car, someone has decided they dont like my car very much and thought it would be a good idea to key it. Not only one side, but both. Absolutely gutted, spend so much time and money on this car just for someone to walk past and decide to f**k it up. Clearly intentional, done both sides, on of which repeatedly with some serious aggression. Occurred on the same culdesac as the previous damage to the front bumper/fender. Honestly don't know why someone would do this, they gain nothing from it. Car is going to the panelbeater on monday, not looking forward to the bill, being a fulltime student money isnt exactly something i have lots of. Spoke to all the neighbors, nobody has a camera or saw anything, and insurance is only 3rd party so will be paying for it myself. Pretty upset and not exactly very encouraging, when people continually find ways to destroy your hard work. Originally the plan was to start racing the car, but that might have to wait a bit now.