Leaderboard

Not going to lie, That comment along with your ones on the turners Facebook post honestly seem to be nothing but trying to scare people off so they don't bid against you... even if it fetched 20k (which is what I would say it will fetch roughly and wouldn't at all be surprised it it does), looking at what they have been listed for it would still be well worth it. Taking it for a $70 wheel alignment is not going to tell you much as it would greatly depend where (unlikely) it was bent. and the only way to do this *properly* is tramming it or getting a 3d chassis measure (needed as part for the repair certification process anyway). you can see pretty clearly, that the hit has gone all but straight in above the bumper and has just dragged the radiator supports back. the whole "write off" persona in this country is completely floored as a "write off" has nothing to do with what the actual damage is and is solely reliant on values. for someone who has a front clip floating about (seems to be alot floating around after seeing this) this is a dead easy repair. with the correct procedures in place (hence repair certification), even if you had to put a rail in it it is absolutely achievable and still worthwhile. In the situation of the above car, it likely isn't even a value issue. it's more likely an issue of available parts.... And before anyone jumps, We deal with repair certifiers on a daily basis putting insurance write offs back on the road. From small side swipes, to replacing complete chassis rails to chassis and body swaps TLDR.... if the new owner parts it out... they need their head checked

ive seen and probably owned more E30s than anyone still on this forum. Unless this car was your great grandmothers hand me down with non-economic value to you, this car will never see the road again. new owner should take it for a $70 wheel alightment at thier corner tyre dealer note the front caster values, that will tell you everything you need to know. its a banana.

End of the day it a safety issue to me. You dont need grip until you do and its very easy to buy on price with things like tyres. If you had do an evasive brake or maneuver in wet a good tyre is going to give a far better chance and enable stability control systems etc to work the best they can no avoid crashing. As above i bet tyres rarely get blamed for accidents even though they would probably prevent lots of them. I don't see any major manufacturers using any of these inferior brands and they always want to save money.

I've gone the other way, had triangles 20s on my 535wagon purely cost driven they were under 200 ea and when I finally changed, the noise at anything over 70km disappeared, it was shocking as I never realised it was the tyres that were doing it as they had been on when purchased, lasted well but were not good in the wet at all which I think is the issue with most of the cheapies, built for chinese concrete at low speeds as per their countrys experiences,I think the age thing is probably more apparant too with more plastics and possibly because they just last longer, A better tyre that lasts 30,000 k tops is hardly going to be old before its shot, yes they fill the rim low profile and look the part , some are alot better than others and you need to brand research and I would put them on my familys cars but I've reached a stage where i can afford and appreciate the difference now, up to a point that is, My current 4wheel drive commodore came factory spec with ps4 and its so good it would be criminal to even consider going lower spec.

When I bought my car in 2015 the auto-dimming mirror glass in the rear view mirror had already failed. For the last 8 years I've been driving the car around with no auto-dimming and a big bubble in the mirror. Because I like to address things promptly I recently ordered a replacement electrochromic mirror glass unit. There are a couple of vendors who specifically supply these, I believe that MirrorJohn is the most well known. My research also brought up some discussion that the unit that these vendors sell is the same thing as is available for significantly less from the likes of AliExpress. I decided to take a punt and ordered from AliExpress. A week or so later this showed up: It looked the part. I did notice that the two layers of the glass were slightly offset and initially thought this was due to poor assembly. In actual fact it is intentional and is how the positive and negative rails are exposed and attached. The last few days I have gotten around to doing the replacement. It's a fairly easy process so long as you are careful and take your time. I wrote a DIY guide for another forum that covers the entire process which you can find here: DIY Guide - E46 M3 - Interior - Replace Electrochromic Mirror Glass Removing the mirror from the car is easy, removing the front bezel less so. The bezel is held on with a series of little plastic clips. With the plastic having become fragile over time, and BMW not designing the unit to be taken apart, the clips have a tendency to break. With the unit disassembled it's then just a case of removing the PCB bracket from the old mirror glass: And then preparing it for affixing to the new mirror. The existing writeups on replacing the mirror glass are then very light on this next key step which is to affix the PCB bracket to the new mirror. It's important to get this right so that the forward facing light dependent resistor is aligned correctly. I solved this by essentially reassembling the unit with the PCB in place. I then clipped the bracket to the PCB and used the front bezel to help align the mirror. Then it was just back to reassembly. As I mentioned I broke some of the clips when disassembling (this seems as though it's pretty inevitable). MirrorJohn's advice is to glue the bezel back on, but I didn't like that suggestion as it would stop me from opening up the mirror again in the future. So I decided to come up with something better. I used some brass pins from a 2.54mm PCB header and heated them up and embedded them into the stubs of the broken clips. I then used Araldite to secure them in place. This worked beautifully and the bezel clips securely in place. Very happy with the end result. The rest of the mirror reassembly is straightforward and in no time I had it back in the car. The auto dimming feature is really cool - the AliExpress unit seems to work well (not that I can talk to longevity) - I'm glad I didn't fork out more than twice as much for what certainly appears to be the same thing!

just not a mazda diesel. M54 and N52 are both very good. but your little M47 is here waiting. I havent touched it for three weeks. we both know it will bump over first turn and take you all the way back to waipuk. something something devil you know.

I did consider that as an option but the condition of the bonnet and fenders is worse than mine so just gunna keep it as is. Plus I don't mind the pre facelift look kind of gotten used to it. I think I prefer to the prefacelift lights but prefer to the post facelift hood if that makes sense. My ideal choice would to be to swap the front end of a coupe to give it the M3 look, maybe chuck an S54 in it at the same time... Yeah have heard that the LF30's are a bit lighter. Unfortunately I think my LF20 has one foot in the grave so won't be able to test the difference unfortunately. My current rack has the yellow tag rack I think not sure how that compares to purple. Some threads seem to reckon yellow > purple then others purple > yellow so who knows. I could swap just the pump over first then see how that compares, then potentially do the purple later. Not sure if my rack is in the best condition either though and it looks like the purple tag in the parts car was swapped over at some point. One thing to note is that I have the CMP solid coupling in at the moment which helped quite a lot with my steering looseness, although it can be a bit harsh on longer drives I've found, (e.g Queenstown to Auckland...). That could also be because my power steering pump being a bit dodgy though. Parts car has finally been removed from the garage, just need to take that shadowline trim off, front passenger door and some other bits then I can try get rid of it. Also robbed it of the rear touring M-Sport springs so it's got some blocks of wood in there instead. EDIT Trimmed the numberplate as @Vass suggested, definitely looks way cleaner. Currently the numberplate is attached with a bunch of VHB tape but I will replace that some screws when I get back to Queenstown since there's a bunch of screws at work.

At that price it appears it might be going back on the Road . Hopefully it will be repaired, And... I've got front cuts and lots of other parts if anyone does buy it with the intention to repair