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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/04/24 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Reluctant sale of: Boris Please click on the link for full details, but the short of it is WoF and Registration until March 2025. 168,626KM and I have partial service history. Previous owner was the archetypal ‘lady owner’, wife of an old boy I play golf with. She owned the car for fifteen years, both privately and under her company name, always garaged and serviced on time. The condition of the car speaks to that, drives great and everything works as it should. I have driven it all over the North Island without issue and up until the arrival of our second child, commuted 100KM in it daily. Really nice spec’ with all the M Sport bits, Hellrot exterior, leather interior and Style 24 wheels. I bought an E53 when number two arrived and to be honest the only reason I am selling this is because it isn’t getting the use it should, and it won’t for the foreseeable. I could use the funds to set the X5 up for family camping. Plate ‘328 S’ included. Located North Shore, Auckland. It would be great to keep this one in the community, $9,000. Great buying in time for Summer! Please send me a message if you or someone you know is interested in discussing further and I will send you my contact details. Thank you, Josh
  2. 2 points
    Hi team. Hope everyone is safe and well. It is almost coming to the end of the year and I’m slowly updating my e30 and sadly my transmission started to play up. I have an intension of fully rebuilding it. But I was wondering if I can source a second hand one in meantime while I rebuild the current one. My E30 is 325i couple Mtech 2 and has a zf4hp22 EH. Have ordered a second hand one through trade supplier and unfortunately turned up with the zf4hp22 but for 4 cylinder one. (Bell housing is totally different so not going to work…) Is anyone have the transmission that I need that I can buy? Will check again with supplier for another one that’s right fit for my car, thought I’d try here. Please note: I have no intention of doing manual swap at this stage, yes it’s probably better but want to keep the car original no modifications. If you have seen my car in Chch you know what I mean… Part number is 24001216597. Thanks in advance.
  3. 1 point
    A project we pulled together over the Xmas break. `08 130 N52B30 Auto converted to N54 6 speed manual. 80000km 130 with a 70000km drivetrain. A bunch of mods from the parts bin to make something unique and a whole lotta fun to drive. Studie AG tuned N54 plus some of our own engine tweeks. AC Schnitzer Suspension package H&R Swaybars Quaife LSD 335i Brakes. Front rotors 335i /Rear rotors E46 M3
  4. 1 point
    Amazing thread. Joined the forum just for this! The level of work and varied nature of the jobs is highly respectable. Hi from the UK 👍
  5. 1 point
    Looking for one of these bad boys after my car failed warrant so in need of an OEM coupler to replace my solid one. Part number is 32306761571.
  6. 1 point
    Got one on the way now thanks to @Eagle
  7. 1 point
    Unless your PCV is shagged you can get away with replacing the valve cover gasket only on the LCI. I did this at around 100,000kms. It lasted 70,000kms without leaking. I then had to replace the PCV valve which is built into the cover. There are also options for this too. The PCV valve is a common reason why oil is being pushed past your gasket though. If it fails it will generally try to force oil out from everywhere. Especially the Valvetronic motor area. You can remove the cover, dremel the old valve off and replace the valve. I have a guide for this somewhere. And both a spare cover and new valve if you wanted to purchase. If just doing the gasket. Valve Cover Gasket Valvetronic motor gasket This seal thing (goes where the plug is on top at the front) - BMW # 11 12 7 528 242 But you get all that with this kit. https://spareto.com/products/febi-bilstein-cylinder-head-cover/103099 Job takes a few hours. Remove the cowling and aircon intake Unbolt the strut brace on the drivers side Unplug and move the loom out of the way Remove the coils and valvetronic motor Unbolt the cover You just need some good TORX sockets. Including bigger sized ones for the strut brace. You will also need to reset the valvetronic limitations. This can only be done via software. Some cheap BMW scanners can do this. Otherwise borrow a Bimmergeeks or Carly or similar.
  8. 1 point
    Old BMW's are a tough proposition unless you're doing all the work yourself. Even a cheap part like an oil pan gasket will cost 10x of the part itself to replace because of the sheer amount of labor involved. Generally, people that have deep enough pockets to pay to have their BMW's worked on move up to newer models anyway, so as the cars age they either end up with enthusiasts or at wreckers. Honestly, unless you plan on getting on the DIY bandwagon, you're probably best to move it on. Upshot is, the E87 platform belonged to one of the last BMW eras that were generally easy to work on and have heaps of documentation online for any type of job you could ever think to take on, so would be a great platform to start on. But yeah, if you're not that way inclined it's unlikely to make economic sense.
  9. 1 point
    i know the long time owner before this person its has so much more than what this guy has listed many upgrades and many many new parts etc many many $$$$ spent on it over 20 plus years etc call me if you want to know its full history 021433600
  10. 1 point
    Nice buy! I’m based on the shore and have seen that car around a few times in various places. Definitely a well kept original example, plate is very distinctive. I have a big box of cleaning / polishing products + a Dewalt polisher you can borrow if you need to start your detailing journey on the car. If I were you I’d aim to polish the car (depending on how swirly / oxidised the paint is you may want to do a light cut too), then ceramic coat the car + do some protecting work to the soft top. Interior, if it’s leather I would recommend moisturising it. With the top down it would be way more exposed to UV so I’m guessing it could be dry/cracked in places. Also get a wool wash mit, sponges are for wheels only!! I did a detail on my 540i a couple years ago, it’s due a light buff and re-ceramic coat soon, but came out pretty well for original paint that had travelled ~370,000km… much easier to keep the car looking nice once the paint is properly protected.
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