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Finally got some foglights to complete the front end. Also have another little addition in the pipework courtesy of Jake Simpson.

Good idea but after all the work i’ve done on these seats I am 100% over it.

After completing a total rebuild of the suspension this year on my E30 convertible I thought I'd create a long overdue project thread to document the work in one place and add in some of the work completed previously... Purchased in Jan 2014 as my daily driver it has been getting attention in fits and starts over the years as time has allowed, and for the past few years was relegated to weekend driver with the purchase of a sturdy Toyota TownAce 60HP diesel (now gone) My main goals with the car are to ensure everything works exactly as it should, keeping it looking original, with mild upgrades (it's a convertible after all) & modernisation as things are given attention. Plans (I'll make a post for each in this thread): -Refresh cooling system/timing belt replacement - Completed May 2014 -Replace convertible roof fabric/seals - Completed Apr 2015 -Fix electro-mechanical folding mechanism - Completed Dec 2016 -Replace all suspension/bushing components - Completed Apr-May 2019 (Special thanks to Nathan (zero)) -Rebuild diff (+mild upgrade - Z3 torsen... while you're in there eh?) - May 2019 (Kayne Barrie Motorsport) -Rebuild head - TBC, planned Jan 2020 (slow oil leak from head gasket down block... a case of while your in there - no coolant mixing/ loss or compression issues) -Convert AC to R134a - TBC (all parts sourced) -Audio upgrade - TBC (CD43 - E36 CD player for something tasteful in the dash, small inline Alpine amp + Bluetooth adapter sourced) -Install new alarm system - TBC (and tidy loom behind dash from butchered install of old ?Dynatron system) (Above 3 to happen concurrently with dash out) -??? Re-dye leather (keeping original patina) - TBC -??? E46 rack swap - TBC (purple tag sourced - still pondering whether I want to make this change, considering certification requirements) -??? Respray (same colour) - TBC The car was had many small issues when I got it - see post: Original build sheet (pretty well spec'd, NZ new, 'special request' is the high-stop on the boot):

Refresh cooling system & replace timing belt - April 2014, 165,000km I didn't have any overheating issues, but everything was original and looking a bit sad. Was the first project on the car after I purchased it, and I really just wanted to pull it apart and have a good look & get some preventative maintenance done Parts: -All new hoses -New radiator (upgrade to 'hot climate' width) -Brackets & shroud for above -Thermostat housing -Blue & brown sensors -Fan clutch -Water pump (GRAF) -Timing belt & tensioner -Auxiliary belts -Temperature resistor for aux. fan -BMW coolant Got everything out, also removed the intake manifold, cleaned up the exterior of the head, sent the injectors out to be reconditioned, inspected & adjusted valve clearances. Replaced cambelt & tensioner (cover had been misfitted, with the tensioner rubbing!)

Certs are $650 now days and no it’s more than a tick the box exercise now far more extensive as the onus falls on the certifier to make sure it is done correctly and if you have a smash he’s not up for manslaughter charger. It now takes a good 3hours or more to certify a vehicle with moderate modification properly. Every single nut and bolt is photographed and documented by the certifier (the good ones at least) and anything that is not up to standard get written on a list of “remedials” I have been getting certs for years and know the rules like the back of my hand and even on my latest cert I got a list of remedials and the length I had to go to prove removal of side airbags were dandy and the remainder of the system was still functioning ect made me realise how difficult certification has become. You also used to be able to convert the likes of trailing arm systems into full coilovers, now you’d struggle without proper documentation to back up that the arm can handle the load, the bolt system is sound and the suspension geometry doesn’t change through the full travel. So no it’s not a tick the box exercise. You should see the paperwork certifiers have to fill out! It’s no wonder some are going to the electronic system now on an iPad to do it all.

Hello, well I will give you the ins and outs. They are good blowers, Although the same size an eaton M90 (about 1.5L) but still older technology. I speak from experience as we developed the original roots blower kits for these m5x based BMWs and started using them. Best one saw 400HP from and s52 us m3 motor, that car went to become the first ever supercharged car in the event and won 3rd place in the american endurance races. Now usually the sc14 are good for 300HP unless you have a 5 speed manual or a modified auto to take the extra torque. What a lot of folks dont know is that this is originally an German blower, Licensed by Ogura from WANKEL AG, in Korb, Germany. There is a much larger version TX28 used for mining and that we are playing with. While I was in Germany last year (sponsored by ex Daimler PR), one evening while taking with the director of the former Mercedes Kompressor department, he said they originally chose these little guys instead of the M62 Eaton, the main reason being ogura clutch couldn't supply enough of them at the time to keep up (Toyota was using them). These are dual lobe dual rotor while the m62/m90's are tri lobe dual rotor and 15% more efficient. But at the end you only go so far with either one, still better than an M62 (1L). All roots blowers. That said whats your budget? And whats your HP Goals?? if you want to fabricate anything yourself, you will end up with a belt chewing headache if you go the full fabrication route and pay for it. Not to mention the hurdles you will come across will push the whole thing out of the comfort zone of "a budget setup". And for the love of god dont put a blow off valve in a closed system that has the MAF infront of it. But if you want to do it solo, you can download the installation guide here (HMW SC14 Installation Guide) and try to do it yourself but be warned, not a walk in the park. Finally your biggest issue on the OBD I M50 will be tuning, your best way to tune it will be using the Ostrich II Emulator, worth some $200 from the US. Its a piggyback system and works well. Here is what you are looking at..at 3 PSI it will see some 40HP Gain with a proper tune. (Dyno attached below) There should been a topic here in this section that had a lot more information as well. Around 6-8PSi you see most M54B30's around 300 at the wheels..depends on the tune. Now the SC14 with lets say the 80mm Pulley will see some 6.5PSI - 9PSI Max before you max out its efficiency as well as put your stock motor and trans into the red zone. Use this pulley. So if you want some real power and willing to build the motor a bit, grab yourself an GT500 Blower and use one of these setups, good for 15-25PSI or 500-600WHP. Hope this helps, all the best!? Dyno with 3PSI/Stock SC14 Pulley. Smaller pulley can push upto 8-9PSI.

$1325 nzd including shipping from demontweeks in Wales for koni yellows.

Na man, Barra the world is the new way, much more power and a lot more reliability for less work ????. Either way, good luck on your journeys, should be a fun project.

Last years cake. She couldnt find it in her to cut into the BMW at that moment..???

?nieces birthday

Finally chucked them on. Bbs rk 002s 18×8.5 et13 215/35s Front needs about a 12-15mm more lower...? Removed silicon from inner of rear guards-?.. rolled all 4.. Had to share

All cleaned up and fitted. Need to open up the drivers seat control box to fit a new bushing so i can put the recline/headrest button back on, and the switch covers for the thigh support on both seats are missing. Hopefully can find those in the e39 530i msport festering away at pickapart Mangere.

19 September 2019. 175yyykms 1. Headlight hazing treated. Wellingtonians should contact @Autoglym for this (professional) treatment. I'd refinished lamp lenses before, wanted this sorted and knew Barry could provide an excellent service. "before and after science" (spot the music reference - 5 pts to whomever names it without google etc) RH Before RH After LH Before LH After. Magic! With thanks to @Autoglym for the before and after photos! 2. Steering Wheel refurbished. Wellingtonians should contact Andrew at Fibrenew. My steering wheel was a little tired, needed more TLC than I could provide. It's come up feeling and looking superb! 3. WoF passed with no advisories. Another year secured. Now for a wash and polish, ahead of the Gentle Annie trip.

$22 for 3 clear coat cans & about 15 for sanding sheets, masking tape and some filler with +-8 hrs of work ...oh dont forget the help of a heat gun ..? ...start each clear coat with a new can for max pressure ???

Found this on my way home

Had a bad experience where the engineer rebuilt some shocks only to have them leak, and then they tried to charge to fix them.