keen

Hey can someone here link me to a "m42 replacing a m40" conversion in a e30 and if I'm lucky a link that has the DASC fitted?

A light on my wifes car has started to come on and go off in its own time. The car is 2000 e46 318 and the light is orange and is on the left hand side of the display panel and it is in the shape of an engine with what looks like a hat on top of it. Is it something to do with the cat converter or the oxygen sensor?

How are you getting on? I'm interested to see how you sorted it. or what you intend doing.

The base models like the 318 e30 had a single horn that made a beep noise ( your not manly sound) some jap import 318 and other BMW 320 323 325 had dual horns a barp sound (the manly sound) you can get the dual horns and fit them in the same place as the single horn with a bracket that holds both horns run their wires together red to red and black to black and fit them to your existing horn outlet. those colors may not be the same as the horn wires but the same principle applies to the colors from the horns that you get,there are plenty of BMW wreckers that you can get the horns from. I got mine off the INTERNET for $15 so shop around first. good luck

This sounds like a good conversion did you have any problems with the sump hitting the steering or the suspension.I understood that the sumps were at different ends of the 2 cars. I have also heard that you need the loom from the e36 Does that mean the an alternative computer such as a Hawk or a link cannot get the car running? Also is there not just one more sensor on the m42 and that being the knock sensor. I stand to be corrected but an uneducated guess is that if the e36 computer was fitted to your e36 position and a separate wire for the knock sensor run to the position in the new computer that has that output that the problem would be overcome? I hope you get this running, that is a good little engine and in your car will have a marked improvement. Keep us posted and any photos would be nice

No it is not an s14 I saw the motor being built and he said he was looking at around the200hp mark and that even surprised me as I am in the early stages of a m42 build and thought that would be good hp for me too but once the m10 was in the car they dynoed it and it came up 220. the car is being raced in the inter marq series at manfield. I'm not sure of the driver but I don't think he is in the top bracket but I understand he was right there with the e30 m3 of warren. Not sure of his surname. but that car is new this season too.

Try to get in touch with Ian at eurotech in Palmerston North. I know that he got 220 hp out of one that is on his shop floor at the moment. that was dynoed at that. and no turbo. I don't think it was fuel injected either. But he would help with the details if you contacted him I sure.

Thank you for all the help it is the car I was looking at. The sales firm I asked for their price and they have not told me. Just said it was still for sale. It sounds good but out of my price range if it is over $50000.That would have to be a lot for a converted RH drive would it not?Is there supposed to be a performance drop due to the original exhaust having to be removed to take the steering box on the right? Looks like I will never own one of these. Sad.

Does anyone know about this car BackBMW M3 E30 1987 POA Auckland 6,811 views I'm trying to load the site address but cannot can someone give me some help here?

Thank you for the advice The cable was absolutely ........ and the mounting plastic on the window slide was broken in half, of course that was the reason the cable came loose. So for the $220 for a new one I was quoted it hardly seems worthwhile repairing. But being the stubborn ...... that I am I have tried to repair it and will try to get some new cables during the week to finish the job. if I don't think that it is strong enough after completion I'll ditch it.

I got the cover through "Turners" it is the "standard" policy of QBE international ltd.

have got a mechanical warranty and did not read the details throughly the electric window on the right rear side has spat the dummy. And it is not covered. So will have to fix it myself Not having a how to manual does any one have an exploded view and any help details on the repair of the offending part and what problems that I'm likely to run in to on the way? the car is a 2000 318 Am I correct in thinking that this is a regular problem with these cars and that the drivers one making a noise now will fail also?

My wife has a 2000 e46 ex Japan 318 her car does the clunking bit too but it is intermittent and a "star" comes up beside the indicator on the dash when its playing up. I would like to take it to Botany motor works but its a little to far away for me. is there a resolution to this yet?

OK but was that AM or FM as the AM was never very good here anyway I used to get over the Bombay's and the AM was gone but the FM stayed right down to Hamilton.But just around town would there be a difference? I don't think it would be too difficult to isolate the hinges and the boot catch.

I went to the dealer today and they tell me that they can't get the bits for them now as the parts have dried up. Anyone able to help?

Hells bells what did I do wrong I've got 5 squares there hope I haven't offended anyone.

This might sound stupid but as I'm not good with computers can someone explain to me what the 2 squares near the top of my I.D are and what does the warn% and squares mean? Have I done something wrong here.

Yes it is the no.9 in the diagram. it is rubber I think but it has gone hard and cracked and the pieces have come off but thanks for that I will try the dealer for a new one.Have you tried using the boot lid as the aerial?

The aerial mount into the body of the car e30 has split and broken off in pieces.Leaving a large hole for water to get into the boot question 1 does anyone have a suggestion to replace it? Can you still get them? 2 has anyone seen the metal BMW one with a seal under it? I saw one in a BMW forum in the states and the purchaser was boasting how he had got it from a wreckers yard. 3 can you get them here? 4 has anyone tried to isolate the boot lid and use that. (of course have the aerial hole filled and repainted)

That sounds really great what does pm mean? Put my address here or somewhere else?

It fired up 1st turn of the key, ran a little rough for a second then settled back to a normal idle and full oil pressure straight away.Thankyou for all your help. It would have been the perfect job except for the engine rear water/heater outlet.The housing had corrosion in it and there was a hole half way back from the end. I thought that I could fit the hose on far enough up the pipe to cover it but the water leaked passed.So I will have to get another housing from somewhere and replace it. But otherwise all was perfect.The two tools one for locking the flywheel, the other for locking the camshaft were just fantastic, and they were easy to make too. Ive no doubt that these help make the job easier and faster.I was a little concerned about the specified advice with the head gasket, in setting the head bolts in 1st 30nm then two sets of 90 degrees.there was some bolts that were definitely tighter than others,I would rather set these to a specified torque value next time. I'm not sure that I should check these again later or not.but otherwise the whole job of new head gasket and cam belt went of without a hitch after finding out the correct information from you thankyou Ken

thanks on to it tomorrow

OK Ive got only a step in the molding in which the plastic covers come up to .Is this the mark that we are talking about it is about the 12 O'Clock position. there are no other marks that I can see. The 2 cam lobes are 11 O'Clock and 1 O'Clock a putting the valves closed. the rear ones are down I assume they are open or opening?