Silver Fox

I see Mr Mosen from Mosen's in Hamilton's bought them. Don't you hate it when something goes so quick with the buynow?

FACTORY RHD, sorry, all evidence to date suggests and points to the fact that there are no FACTORY RHD cars. All registries I've seen specifically state that all production was LHD. Doesn't stop it from being an exceptional car IMHO tho.

Yeah, quite tight is a matter of opinion I guess. Over tightening is not good either. Like I said, all the people who should know have told me the 90 degree thing is the best way if you don't have the correct BMW tensioner. Hope it helped.

Depends on the condition of the bottom end. I did two head rebuilds on M40's and ended up with run bearings from the extra compression with both. you might only be getting the head back in spec, but the bottom end won't be in spec with 150k on it. Cheap insurance at this stage I would have thought to at least redo the bearings?

OK, so I've got another life actually. You need to lock the cam in the right position, tighten the toothed cam cog on the front with the tension tight on the right side as you look at it from the front, and then lever the tensioning cog out till the belt will twist to 90 degrees with your fingers. Tighten up the nut on the tesioner at this point, you should be left with around 10mm of slack in the longest run on the belt. Quite easy really.

Yeah, you're right from memory, prefacelift needs sensor IIRC? Someone will tell you.

Cost, anywhere from $500 to $1000, depending on luck? Yes to all the rest. ie. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...1036472.htm?p=1

Just do it. Have got, includes the two rectangular plugs to lights and 2 sets of connectors for the numberplate lights. Can cut where it leaves the boot if that suits. Cheers, David.

Would suggest you start looking, Quick.

One piece case, so need a big hacksaw and welder.

Yes, it is the 240, but be carefull, the 320 also has a 240 box, and it doesn't fit. The box you need must come from a M40 car.

SHhhhhhhhhhhh

My effort this afternoon

Interested in E28 at that price?

HB Dan, be good to meet you there.

You can find another 15mm clearance for the inside if you go back to solid brake disks and calipers, instead of the vented, stops the inside of the spokes hitting the calipers, makes little difference to the average driver.

Very easy Jimmy, they just slide in and out.

get in the car and remove the handbrake surround, then undo the 2 x 10mm nuts that hold the cables in the handbrake, one each side, and pull thru from under the car. They stay with the subframe.

No, that won't fit will it? must be large case as you said.

Large case or Medium? Should fit your E30, just need to swap the back plate and output shafts. Diffs from E28, E24, E23 and E30 are all the same fitting and interchangeable, just need to swap the above to get to fit.

Open the boot and remove the side covers, right in front of you, 2 x 13mm nuts each side. I've done three rear subframe rebushes now and have found it relatively easy to press the bushes out in a small hydraulic press. Trick is not to rush it, let the press push the rubber out slowly, stops you from ripping the centre of the bush out.

You are right, it is for fine tuning, due to changes in timing when you get the head planed etc, also possible slight variations in belt length and wear in the engine. I was told by a wise man that if you lock the cam in place and tension the belt on the right side as you look at it from the front, using the play in the sprocket, then tension the other side using the tensioner, and lock it up you should be right. Am I close Rusty Nuts?

To do it properly there is a tool to fit over the square section on the cam just in front of the first lobe. This locks the cam in position. Then you put a pin in the block at the bottom back on the passengers side into the flywheel which locks the crank in TDC. I've made up a tool myself, but I believe that if you do as above you can do it successfully.

OK, it shouldn't move on it's own, but to be safe, set the front crank pulley to TDC, there's an arrow on the block at about 1 o'clock about 15mm from the pulley, rotate the pulley untill the tooth with the small notch on it lines with the arrow, this tooth is the 6th one past the missing teeth on the pulley. The cam sprocket has an arrow also, as well as a notch near the teeth. This should line with the notch in the top of the cam cover housing. If it's pointing to the bottom, rotate the motor thru 360 to get it to the top. At this stage you should find that the square part on the front of the cam just inside the head should be flat across the top, and if you put a straight edge across it and measure down to the side of the head on each side it should be the same. Make sense?

Choice, that's a real road trip.