Silver Fox

Hey bravo, I've got a 4.1 med case diff with a flange for the cv shaft, and the drive shaft with the cv joint on the diff end as well, 6 bolt circular plate. I was told it's out of a manual E30, the drive shaft measures up at 1540mm o/a from flange to flange, any idea what it's from. Will post pics later.

sh*t, where to start?

Yes, I think I can even find a shifter for this, leaving just some bushes to be replaced maybe.

Look under contacts on the site, www.bmwclub.org.nz

Hey Jimmy, minute amount of play in it, but seems ok, I'm prepared to put a 4 week warranty on it, parts only.

Hi Jimmy, I haven't had it in a car, but will check input shaft tomorrow and get back here. Cheers.

Hi Ollie. I have a big one in the Black car and a small one in the silver car. It doesn't seem to make any difference, we don't have overheating problems at all, if anything it's the other way, I'm just about to replace the thermo in the balck car to try to get it up to temp. I've just fitted water temp and oil pressure gauges to both cars to try to monitor it better. ps, the smaller radiator's a lot lighter

Be very careful, this is normally done when you get a leak in your heater, a cheap fix. Would keep an eye on water level or dampness in car?

Sorted, thanks anyway

OK, just taken it off, small melted area just above exhaust and 2 cracks, one bottom by left arch, and other by exhaust. Genuine BBS, made in Germany, needs a bit of welding, and a good clean and paint. Also 3 small screw holes where last owner had screwed on, needs someone with a bit of care to reinstall I guess. Any offers?

OMG please???

pics, needs tidy?

So, is this the 276hp version, or the 286hp one? I'm guessing it's not the 470hp tuned up one!

Just got a new E30 318 F/Lift, it has a part kit on. The back bumper skirt and a boxy thing under the door, passenger side only, drivers side has fallen off. Will post pics tomorrow, but any interest, box of beer or trade? Needs tidy up, it's plastic, not fibreglass.

Ah, what a way to spend a day off. Was also up to my elbows in grease preparing for Taupo and starting to strip my new car. Looks interesting Brent, lots more power?

I've got a selection of bottlecaps.

Thanks Gus, decided I needed a windscreen as well, so went and bought another car!

I wouldn't worry about the feedback, I had over 400 before I got my first red, some people haven't got a life, and honest people will see right thru it anyway. Not a lot you can do about it, but like I said, you'll soon see the funny side. You've done the right thing, blacklist them and let us know who they are, so we don't get caught. I'd red them as well, so others get the idea. I see you have, probably shouldn't have used the language, it only gives them something else to complain about?

$50 pm me if interested, boss only.

If you know a panelbeater, get them to chuck it on a chassis alignment machine and they'll be able to tell if it's not right very quickly. May have had a whack and put one of the towers out slightly?

Ok, well I've been doing the old google thing, and it seems that the general concensus is that the important bit is the distance from the collector to the first chamber, whether it is a straight thru resonator or a muffler? Seems to be between 8 and 24 inches depending on the motor, and that what you do after that does nothing as long as you don't restrict the gas again, and the outlet from the first chamber is larger than the inlet, as the gases think they have been set free if you do this. You can put a muffler on the end, so long as it flows at around the same rate as the engine, which is hp x 2.2, so if I have a 95 hp motor, if I'm lucky, I should make sure that the muffler flows at around 200 cfm? This is at variance with what I've been told by some people who should know, in that I was told that any old muffler will do. Interesting article here on this. http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engine...st/0505phr_exh/

Thanks for that, so what about 4 into 2 in a 318, will this give more peak power?

You should be able to pick up an aftermarket Luk or the like for under $300. Shop around.

Is it a flaw, or does it equalise the cylinder back pressure? Maybe it's a mistake to just try to remove the gasses as quickly as possible. I guess if you put uneqal back pressure on the pistons you would upset the engines balance? Does this make sense?

Ok, going down to my little 318, it also has twin pipes down to a collector under the car. Again, why? Would it make sense for me to run twin pipes all the way to the back, or not, and if not, why? Everyone has told me that the collector is the hardest part of the system to get right, so again, why have it? If it's a weight thing, I can live with it if I get increased performance. Any reasoning would be great, why mix all the exhaust gasses together with the resulting constriction that must occur? Thanks.