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Everything posted by Silver Fox
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OK, display is fine now, but still missing some emoticons, has description only, and when in a thread, the forum button above the bimmersport banner doesn't work?
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me too using latest firefox of course.
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Just sold my 95 740i for $12k, with half the k's and all the goodies, would guess the market for this at about 7 to 8 tops maybe, but it all depends on what someone's willing to pay at the end of the day, and how much you want to sell. Good luck with it.
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Guy's got imagination and the balls to go with it! Good on him.
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Couldn't you just run a custom pedalbox and hydraulic brakes, get rid of the E30 brake setup?
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Blood sweat and tears Andy, but back in, now just got to find a way to remount it as the flaps on each end had to come off to fit around the cage. Heater was a bugger tho, kept hanging up on everything. All OK now, seats are next, got them but have to alter fixing points, then get harnesses on Monday and off for warrent I guess.
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Hi Will. bad news is the 318 needs to be about 660mm to those points. Good news is that I've got one which does fit, so I think that's just about everything. I'll do some words and pics in a week or so when I get some time, more important stuff at the moment, like reinstalling the heater and dash etc. Thanks.
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Anyone after an E30 for the series, manual 320 87, 2.3 motor would need to be changed, but 5 speed, 2 door, no sunroof, could be a good buy http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...on-64802454.htm
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I've solved the dilema, just had to short the green/yellow from the gearbox (reversing lights) across to the green/black from the selector (which went to the relay behind glovebox, did the connection behind the glovebox as both wires are there) Turned key and off I go. Cheers.
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tried that Will, no go. Reconnected auto, car started, wires at auto selector are as follows. From selector light a gr/y, joined with a gr/y from the selector, and going to fuses in engine bay, and a bl/w, going from selector to same fuses. Also from selector a gr/bk splits, one goes to a yellow relay behind the glovebox, the other to motronic ecu. From the selector light, a brown going to the same relay behind glovebox. Other 2 wires are another brown, and a violet from the auto box and going to the ecu as well. What do I do with all of them?
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OK I've got my manual box in and have stripped the auto loom from the connection under the steering col which comes from the ecu I think, 3 wires, gr/bk, violet and brown, and 2 wires going back to passengers side, gr/bk and brown. I've joined the 2 connectors at the gearstick and have the reversing lights working. Car won't start, I need to bypass the auto inhibitor, can I do it by shorting wires I have exposed, or have I stuffed it and need to replace the auto loom for some reason. Thanks.
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Sorry, I don't have anything to compare it to, other than the shaft on it. The auto shaft is 645mm from the end of the spline to the outside face of the end plate which the rubber donut bolts to. According to my measurements I need it to be 190mm longer, ie. 835mm. Worked out by measuring the auto and manual boxes which are 190mm different. Bit mickey mouse, but should be right. If anyone has a manual shaft out of a 320 that they can measure it would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Make sure it's got rod holders and room for a fish bin.
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Thanks, tried a few wreckers, but no go, buggers are all holding on to their manuals for the race series, most of them are 4 doors tho, hope they get stuck with them. May try BMW, or go with the rebuild I guess, not much choice.
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Almost going, but still need my manual shaft. Been quoted about $450 to do lengthen and balance of my short shaft in East Tamaki, anyone out there sell me one cheaper, or can you point me somewhere cheaper to get it done.
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Cheers Conrod, I've got the proper manual kit now as well, probably go ahead and fit it I think. One less leak to worry about as well.
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Hi Gus, are you trying to sell it whole or in bits? Will the drive shaft in this fit a F/L manual M40?
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Hey, thanks for the input. It is my race car, I have the option of going either way at the moment, I've got both setups. It's a 318 so should be a bit lighter up front anyway. The 316's and some 318's came out with manual steering, so I guess I assumed they'd be OK like this, and I'd save a bit of weight as well. I could understand the 320's being a bit heavier up front being a problem. Kerry, I understands some of what you're saying, but if it's on bypass above idle, how will it help me with the changed geometry and heavier steering, or does it adapt to load? I thought that power steering had little influence on your steering above about 20 k's, I do remember most of my early cars didn't have it at all. Andrew, I don't intend to be paralell parking on the racetrack, but you never know do you?
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Thanks, reasons for and against?
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Would it work if you stripped all the power components off the rack, bunged all the holes, fitted a grease nipple in one of them and packed it with a good grease. Any reasons why it wouldn't?
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After manual E30 F/L steering knuckle up to steering column. I've found a manual rack, but doesn't have the fittings to take me up to the steering column. Still after a manual driveshaft for a F/L 318i E30 too, front half will do. Any help appreciated, thanks.
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That's your auto trans cooler, not engine oil.