Silver Fox

Hi, if the silver plastic piece is still on, carefully prise it off, it's only held on by the 2 lugs, use a screwdriver or the like, cover the end with a rag, and slip it under from the side, not the top or bottom, and gently lift. It should come away, you can then fit your new one. Would suggest a small bit of sealant or the like under your new one to help it stay there.

hi, I'll swap you, pm'd. cheers

Can anyone tell me where this kind of wreck will come up for auction, just how do insurance co's dispose of claims? Auction or tender process? Thanks.

Sorry to see, will you rebuild? What makes you think it's locked?

Still looking for the manual drive shaft for a facelift 318i E30. can anyone do? Cheers.

OMG, Richard will be turning in his grave won't he? Wish I had one!

Std boot lid spoiler is allowed. Part number 51711945710.

Would asume the back's the same, but I haven't done one. Looks like it has a joiner in each bottom corner, ease these out and the insert should out as well then it's the same as the front.

Windscreen is easy as, it has an insert in the middle of the rubber which goes right around the window, this has a joiner where the 2 ends come together. Slide this one way until you can see an opening and using a small screwdriver lift the insert up and peel it out right around. Reach inside and gently push the screen out starting in the top corner on one side, should come free quite easily. Fitting new is reverse but push a length of light cord into the rubber, then start the new screen in one corner, as you push the screen in you pull the cord out, this lifts the edge of the rubber over the screen, kind of like tyre levers do when you change a bike tyre. Some people put a squirt of windscreen sealant in the rubber, especially if it's not new, be careful not to use too much. Finally refit the insert, should just push in, if tight you can wet with a little detergent. Good luck.

When you retension it, how tight is right?

Run the cleaning programs a couple more times, Lavasoft Adaware and Spybot-search and destroy, are the best. Make sure they are up to date with their definitions, they'll get it in the end normally. Good luck.

Hi, that's where your starter is, under that intake. It bollts into the gearbox bellhousing, tucked in beside the block, has three wires bolted onto the end of it. Chances are that one of those wires is loose, or the solenoid is failing, check the wires first, I've also known this to happen with a lose battery connection?

Not vid, but some better pics here http://www.z4um.com/viewtopic.php?t=20823 Not red bull, but Z4 coupe vid here http://media.autobild.de/video/D/4734381fc...bb6fc258d-1.wmv Official vid here http://www.z4coupeaddicts.com/z4mcoupe3.wmv

Went to Hydrogen1 for $12950.

I see LuK also sponsor the BMW 320 SI's in the WTCC, see on the WTCC site, also free video of races. http://www.fiawtcc.com/

The BMW E30 series is being set up by Original BMW Parts, and is for E30's, manual F/L 318's and all 320's only. At this stage it's being called the Original BMW Parts E30 Challenge. Sounds like Conrad has got wind of another class being set up as well, there was talk of running all ineligible cars in races at the same time as the E30's, under a staggered start system so you would have races within races..

Yeah, just got my kit from European parts in Ryan Plc, Manukau City, as above includes locating pin, $225 incl GST. Luk, made in South Africa, seems OK.

1st pic pass side behind glovebox, 2nd pic next to pedal box above brake, 3rd pic left side of steering col, 2 and 3 are below the battery box.

I've just stripped out my E30 for my Race car, and have found small isolated spots of rust in 2 or 3 places, letting water into the cab. Thought I'd let everyone know where. First one was passenger side front footwell, tucked up high behind the glovebox, caused thru blocked outlet from external compartment below the windscreen. On mine it had rusted thru into the wheel well and cabin, and could be seen with the wheel on full lock in the top corner behind the wheel. Next one was behind the rubber fitting which drains the same compartment below the windscreen, when I took the fitting off it was blocked solid, This is in the engine bay, drivers side on the firewall behind the head, right next to the battery, needs regular cleaning. The other was below the battery, the tray had the usual rust spots, some ended up being holes into the drivers footwell. Other than the battery tray the others are all behind sound deadening material, and real hard to see or find without removing it. Hope this helps someone, Cheers.

Got a pre F/L pedal box from Graeme on Saturday, and it slipped straight into my F/L 318. Inside is stripped which made it real easy, only difference was an extra bracket on the auto pedalbox, but it seems unneeded anyway.

Must admit the blue's much easier on the eyes, I'm on a 15.4 widescreen laptop.

Congrats on a job well done, :thumb:

Hi, you guys sure that manual and auto are different? I've just dropped the ring gear from my auto on top of the manual and they match perfectly, I've got both in pieces at the moment, in the middle of race car build, the teeth numbers and size are the same.

Hi, thanks to all who have helped with my conversion bits so far, only need the drive shaft now, can anyone help? Thanks.

Have my box now thanks to IPLEZA.