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Hay Guys I realised the other day that the exhuast on the b35 wont go onto my b28 exaust without mods, can i just put the b28 one on and grind the inside to make it a bit bigger, and throurt if i flipped it up i mite be able to use it for my turbo when i get it can anyone let me know CHeers

Sounds like a long process yea im hoping to try get it to in 1 w.e with wiring and transplanting the new engine hope it all goes well so that i can actually drive around

Can someone let me know if this sounds about right for all the plugs cause i need to prob do this next w.e so need to get it sorted M30 b35 Motor Conversion(Electrics) Ok, even though this is from the E30 ETM, it should be the same. Let me know if any of the wire colors are not found or different, and I will try to dig up my E28 ETM. Please note that I am partially color blind so I have great difficulty telling the difference between Green and Brown. So some wires that might be Green I will call Brown and vise versa. The connectors that need to be taken into account are C101 and C103. C101 is the 17 pin connector that plugs into the fuse box. C103 is the connector that plugs into the motor wiring harness under the dash on the passenger side. There are anywhere from 5-3 wires in C103. The wires on the side of the body are colored, BK(to instrument cluster(tach speed drive)), BR(Ground), WH/BK(to instrument cluster(fuel economy gauge drive)), GN/RD(not used(goes to one side of the OBC relay)), GN/YL(not used(goes to the other side of the OBC relay)). Now first lets concentrate on this plug. On the E28, BK goes to BK/BL, BR goes to BR, and WH/BK goes to WH. On an E30, the 2 wires that are not used in the E28 are used, which I believe are also used on the E34. These 2 wires are what cuts the ignition control when the CODE function of the OBC is used. If you are wanting to wire these in, they should connect to the one GN/RD wire. Basically, you cut the GN/RD wire and run one side down one of the unused wires and back to the other side of the GN/RD wire. In the E28, though the OBC relay should control the no start function by cutting power to the main relay, so that is why your car runs now, so I would just leave the 2 wires that aren't connected, unconnected. Now onto the 17 pin plug on the side of the fuse box. C101. I believe that all of the connections for C101 and C103 in the E28 are contained in the E34 C101, so you will have to do some splicing up near the ECU to put in the other end of the E28 C103. The E28 plug has listed numbers I am going to refer to these number and the wire color that should come out of it on the E28 motor and what it does. Pin 1, BU goes to alternator. Goes to alternator "charge indicator" light in instrument cluster. Pin 2, BU/VI or BU/RD static oil level sender unit. Goes to static oil level light in the active check control unit. Pin 4, BR/WH Coolant temp sensor driver wire. Runs to coolant temp gauge in instrument cluster. Pin 6, GN/YL goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 6 and in the fuse box is colored GN/WH. Pin 7, GN/VI gets power from Pin 87 of Fuel Pump Relay and goes to fuse 1 in the fuse box. Pin 8, BK/YL Starter trigger wire comes from the ignition key. Pin 9, Not used Pin 10, WH/BK To Diagnostic connector Pin 6. Said to be "not used". Pin 12, GN Powers the coil from fuse 1 of fuse box Pin 13, BU/WH Dynamic oil level sender unit. Goes to oil level light in active check control unit. Pin 14, BR/GN Oil Pressure switch. Runs to oil pressure light in instrument cluster. Pin 15, WH/BU Service indicator to Diagnostic connector. Pin 16, GN Is the same as the GN wire in Pin 12 and is actually spliced together with the wire from Pin 12 at S127 Pin 17, GN/VI To Fuel pump relay through splice S128 The E34 uses a round style connector to plug into the fuse box. This has 20 pins so I will list what the wires in each of those do. Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box. Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light. Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge. Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light. Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL. Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN. Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach. Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103. Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light. Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor. Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light. Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11. Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster. Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays. Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used. Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector. Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit. I believe that the rest of the plugs aren't used. I believe that Pin 14 is also not needed to have the car run properly. I have yet to find out what propose it serves so I would say it doesn't need to be connected. And any of the E34 pins that I do not have connecting to a pin on the E28 harness means that it does not need to be connected, or there is no place for it to be connected. Now here is a list of which wires need to go where. C101 E34 to E28 Pin 1 Pin 1 Pin 2 Pin 2 Pin 4 Pin 4 Pin 6 Pin 6 Pin 13 Pin 7 Pin 18 Pin 8 Pin 16 Pin 10 Pin 7 Pin 12 Pin 10 Pin 13 Pin 5 Pin 14 Pin 11 Pin 15 Pin 7 Pin 16 Pin 13 Pin 17 C103 Pin 9 Pin 1 BK Pin 8 Pin 3 WH/BK I have spent now 7 hours on this, so I really hope it helps. Written by Rob Anderson '01

Thanks for that bravo yea your right its a e28 and lots of metal to polish but worth the mish, im getting rid of all the rust on the block at the same time Does any one know what good, sanding grits are best to use and then off course a buffer after, ive done a rough clean with a wirebrush brings out some shine but need to sand it with something finer to get it looking nicer Cheers

I just use dextron 3 for my auto and think used 15w-40 in my engine i think but yea ATF is ATF check what the bmw manual says and work from there

Hi Guys im abit of a novice when it comes to polishing and i was wundering if any one could give me any info on what to use i currently have a air compressor with lots of attachments and just wanted to know what i should be using im manily looking to make my engine shine and be polished so it looks good any help would be appreciated Cheers

Did you use a 'dual mass' flywheel?? yes used a dual mass never thort that it might fall apart, lolz Part of the pressure plate failed?? Seen that put a hole in a bell housing before!! Is the clutch release mechanism working fine?? clutch fork or centre release bearing may have collapsed?clutch seems to be putting pressure on the gearbox as slight movement between engine and gearbox Is the starter motor matched with the flywheel? armature not 'over' engaging and/or not retracting enough and jamming on flywheel? Same tooth count/pitch? Sticky solenoid? na would say solenoid fine cause it started easy each time except bit hard to start until warmed up Was it always manual? or have you just converted from Auto?? Just converted to manual and it was a bitch should of brought a e28 selector rod etc but least now i have two Altho it had a rough kinda clunking sound coming from timing chain when ideling but once reved was fine, well seems as im going to have to pull the car apart again lolz

and the mechanic i was talking about earlier was bmw dealer in wellington and they didnt even clean my car and all other work has being done by me and my dad no worries so yea its just random it was going fine then drama

Hi Guys Thanks for all the advise, yea its at home now so im going to try jack the back off the ground next w.e and see if i can get the wheels turn when its in gear and off the ground I have just finished putting the manual transmission in and cylinder head had just being redone, bleed the cooling system and then this is when it died after driving for about 5 mins making sure it shifts proberly and no dramas with engine besides small oil leak at the back of cylinder head. i had been up and down the road a few times fine, then the sound and engine cut out when i try to turn it over it shorts like when you have a auto in them and the flywheel jams cause you can hear the starter trying to turn the flywheel but wont give, but given its a manual only ting i can think is clutch or engine has given out The car moves fine in netural, but once in any gear wont even move at all even tried towing it and wouldnt move at all, theres no way that my flywheel could of jammed or broke would that cause the engine and car not to move at all??

if i was close to a big city, and last time i took a mechanic it cost me 200 and they couldnt tell me more than i knew was wrong with the car, and in the end took the cylinder head off (and ohh there was water in the block) which i had figured it was but now back to my problem at hand, it was working fine then just stoped so thats what confuses me and if i take it to a mechanic two options Tow the car in netural for 20kms with no power steering or brakes or get a car trailer and still have to mega mish it with that soo yea, ive done everything else on this car myself and just dont have big buks to be wating on a m30 2.8 - when i could put my m30 3.5 in and test the gearbox while im doing the engine swap

Hi Guys as some people know i have had lots off issues with my cylinder head etc, whihc was still leaking out the back but not really causing a problem but now after driving it for awhile, when i was driving along and heard a clunking/ticking sound come from engine bay the engine died while in gear - took it out of gear now it wont even move when its in gear even when we tried to tow it, also wont turn over just shorts anyone have any bright ideas before i pull the gearbox and engine out PLEASE HELP any questions and ill let you know what happened

Thanks for that ay, i would wunder if you could modify it tho, so maybe ill have to talk to a guy i know and see how much a firm can build one for me

Hi Guys Does anyone still have a manifold of the trubo 745i that i can use for my turbo project or does it not fit correctly

Hi Guys does anyone have a white/black leather interior that they want to part with cheap to put into my e28 project

Hay Guys Will any later turbo manifolds fit on my m30 engine sitting in a e28, cause ive had a look round and why are manifolds for newer bmws so cheap compaired to the ones for old cars or does anyone know someone that would make one cheap for has one laying round. otherwise might have to try make one myslef but wanted it to look good Cheers

10k think its bit less than that depends what sort of power you want ay, bout 5k for turbo installation depending on what you want, then just ecu common guys, this easy stuff and not that much modding most bmw's will handle around 600hp on stock internals honestly talk to Topcat or Damo about there turbo probjects they done on m30 engines but im sure newer engines even easier

Hi Guys saw this on the net and mite help someone out http://www.autotrader.co.nz/View/Used/BMW-...7c1&No=1350

Hi guys i just got some 540i fronts for my car and was wundering if any one has any rear vented disk brakes they want to part with so i dont put the 540's on the font and crash lolz other wise ill just go with e34 535 brakes unless you guys think ill be fine leaving my small e28's on the back

Hi Guys My mate is looking at buying a 1996 3 series, 318i with rims and was wundering if i could put the rims on my e28? and also if my stock 15" will fit over his brakes on the 3 series, please let me know Cheers kym

yea i think so but they seemed to go in easier this time, but im def going to upgrade to studs for my 3.5 engine so much less hastle

Managed to get it working after taking the head off twice and putting it back on as the first compression test came up with less than 100psi so re-did head and bolts now starts fine with abit a acceleration for air lolz

Hi Guys I have a strange one i have put a shitfter on from cant remeber what car, think from e32 or e30 and the shift rod is to short to put it into 1st, 3rd, 5th do you guys reakon just putting a longer shiter rod should recitfy this Im currentyl running a e28 with getrag 260/6 (i know should have gone with e28 one but hay) it just missus the gears if i hold it in place so do you reakon putting a shifter rod with bout 4cm more on it should work yes you can hassle me bout not using right shifter lolz

Hay Bro What sort of brakes do you have on the 535 that you are wreaking Cheers kym

Thanks for that i will def give that a try this w.e ill will take off and check then re tighten and do a compression test before anything, yea those settings were for engines after 87 thats why i tried to 60nm but ill go with what you say quicksilver im sure you got more experince than me with e28's

Ive read both the specs out off haynes and bently books, haynes states torque to 60 then 33 dregree angle turn then 33 degree angle turn once hot, But i followed instructions that came with arp bolts Torque to 30nm, 60nm - undo 90 degrees , tighten to 60nm then 33 degreee angle tighten and once hot angle tighten again Yep gasket was tight fit but fitted right and all went on ok, any ideas, do you reakon its not on enough and please dont say i stuffed it up