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http://www.nitrobahn.com/index.php/feature...ure-collection/ worth a look nearly meets show room standards haha

Thats about right, i still havnt put my rears on dont have the cash for the Rotors yet, trying to get it to wof standard first and really have no issues stopping now besides trying not to lock my brakes as i dont have ABS anymore. removed due to Failure haha bit more fun tho

Ok Guys - question even tho its proberly being answered before what sort of mission is it to swap suspension for eg. e30 into a E28 as looking on the internet i see all the top camber plates seem to be universal for the both, so my thought is that is only the bottom the mount that would cause the issue. - ive looked at realoem fronts e28 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=31&fg=10 e30http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1412&mospid=47283&btnr=31_0112&hg=31&fg=10 rears e28 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=33&fg=45 e30 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=33&fg=45 they do look diffrent but how hard would it be to modify and pass a wof or do you reakon you could do it without as i know parts for e30's are widly avalable but if this is not possible then sweet as it was just a thourghts on this were

I think this is awsome work if only my e28 looked that good, failure for my m8 losing his job so no cheap paint jobs

Thanks Brent see the options available and i now you can make close to 3.7l like marty did which is good, but still comes down to would really like to know how you change a crankshaft by griding etc makes no sense and would be soo keen for a 4 ltr M30 turbo think it would be something new its the cost of the custom crank quoted around 3.5k US im sure itl be arround the same in nz - is the power gain worth the $$$ or do i just put that cash into making the build slighltly more engineered

OK Guys, Maybe not right place to ask, but i can always move it if needed i am thinking about stroking my M30 - now i know the available options some of which arnt going to happen cause or rareity of parts but i just wanted to know, how you change a crank shaft to increase stroke on a engine i read some stuff on the net but i am actually lost and throught someone might bout to put it in english haha eg. say i want to increase the stroke on the m30 to 94mm which would increase the capacity to around 4 litres. could you do this using 3.5l crank modified etc - im prob sure that i would need a custom crank for something like this $$$$ but what are the possiblitys or just a explaination - how grinding etc a crank shaft would increase stroke Cheers kym

depending on what you are doing keep it stock, or get it chiped i would ultiamtly say give Gavin in Auk's a ring and ask him about options cause at least hell point you in the right direction and if you running a stock car no point, in changing ecu - if your having timming have you checked all or sensors or tried another ecu found that with my e28 had to swap out the ECU with anther one to get it to work properly as there is a risistor in the ecu's that can give out causing timming failures

I agree with that and no noticable change unless you re-wire the lights

what model and year car do you have. closet thing i can think off - something to do with your sound system and amplifier maybe

Very Well done is all i can say - ups to gavin and Brent

have you tried NZEFI or DCH Motorsport in christchurch

Hi Guys thanks for Thourghts on what to do, if i was going to get them cut i would get it done porfesional as im not going to take any risk on a car that my son goes in dont have a big budget at all - its all getting saved up to pay off debt and do turbo conversion and fix my 4g63t engine for the misus lolz, its really only rubbing on the front im runnig 245/60 or 65/R17 so i figure simple option seen i need to get new tyres before a wof lolz is to get something like 230 or 235s so i have some more clearance which i reakon should be ample i could just go back to my stock 15" low profiles that came with the car or my 15" standards off my old e28 they just all passed last wof haha but its a few burnouts later. I like Brents Idea of New Roll Bars front and rear with new Brushes an the options from H&R are very limited for the E28's same everywhere but think im going custom K Sport Coil overs for $2300nz shipped to nz when i get the cash..... maybe next year haha have seen what local shops offer and its the same price for standard suspension setups that ive being quoted unless people in welly rippn us off

Hi Guys Dont know the name as i forgot to take a pic its the Fuse on the Bottom Right - eg does Tach, Dash, few other things i have a alarm installed in the system - wired up my Tachometer and re-did my gauges - with everything pluged in and the dash off worked fine -- until i screwed dash etc back in now i keep blowing the fuse soon as i turn the ignition to ON and Disable my Alarm (uniden VS5000 Top model) - seems to do it also if i disable my alarm and dont turn ignition all i get on DASH is Battery light - Im thinking i knocked Ignition wire when putting steering cover back on. but if someone could let me know what Wires that fuse does as i figure the entire dash etc coming back off to trace all the wires. i did test removing all 2ndary wires eg. tach wire etc P.S this all eventuated after i removed the start reley from the car, still worked to i screwed everything up and then bang everytime went through 8 fuses - Thats Karma for you seen it worked and ran fine to i did everything up

Would be good to let people know what version, as i know that some are illegal well will soon be illegal and whats the point in having a $500 radar and loosing your licence and having it confiscated - Very Great radar tho

Think White Leather all the way i know it sounds Lame - but a Flash Car BMW, MERC etc look great with White Leather Going to replace my with white leather once im done

Thats Mint and it OWNS up

They have diffrent part numbers so dont really want to take any risk seen i spent 50 bux on new bulbs for them so they are bright again, so might hit up BMW and see what they cost as im not paying 250 or something crazy for brand new 1's lolz

Hi Guys Just wanitng to get peoples Opinion on how to decrease the Body Roll and Maybe lower the E28. Honestly i dont have much money and ill prob n the long run buy a new shell and upgrade Suspension to Coil overs and Get new Sway bars but as a cheaper option i need a Drop of about 30mm to look good on my current 17's and something to decrease the roll maybe new brushes but dont know. Also i know my Tyres are rubbing on the Bottom Suspension mounts - being advised to just grind a few mill off and paint it bit weary to do that.

Yea i will admit i never really used my boot except to store all my tools in and my subs i will admit i just dont seem to have the time these days to get anything done, as i can only see my cars on w.e's and my son hassles me way to much and when hes asleep the misus hassles me i have worked out that if i can get things for her to do eg painting on simple tasks that wont involve her getting shocked she does come in handy But Anyways will love to see Pics of the setup and if i do my duel amp, 12" amp setup i will let you guys know

Hi Guys I have being working on my cars for years, and having to deal with putting the registration on hold etc, and driving/testing with NO WOF/Rego great fun that has being. Until recently my cousin who has being doing it for years let me in on a secret details below Exempt Class A Exempt Class A vehicles are not exempt from registration and licensing but are exempt from registration fees and the vehicle licence portion of the licensing fee. You still have to pay for other fees and levies included in the total licensing fee – for example, you still have to pay for the appropriate ACC levy, registration plates and labels. Exempt Class A vehicles are: * vehicles used on a road that is not a public highway, vehicles used on public highways only for inspection, servicing, repair or for a practical driving test. (Please note that you can only drive vehicles without a WoF or CoF on the road for the purpose of bringing the vehicle into compliance, and it must be safe to be operated for that purpose) * pedestrian-controlled goods services vehicles * fully tracked vehicles * vehicles used in a declared road construction zone * vehicles crossing or proceeding along a section of a road when authorisation has been given by a local roading authority under certain conditions * all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) used on a public highway, in moving from the owner's residence to a road that isn't a public highway, where the distance travelled doesn't exceed three kilometres, or in connection with the inspection, servicing or repair of the vehicle. This Actually is great 2 Cars registered for a year cost me $41 and then you can still go get your WOF but makes good fun if your WOF is expired and you get pulled over - "im just on my way to the garage" and with this registration its cheap and i know you can do that on a normally rego if the cops being nice - but to have my car fully registered for the price of nothing and can be used for testing on the road without getting in to much trouble Hope you Guys like it

That would actually be a really good way to do it and if you do the setup correctly - with a ported Sealed Box youll have bass up the Wazzo my only thing would be make sure you mount the Sub lower than the boot or if you put something in there youll destroy the sub And Actually Thourt that a spare wheel was required for a Wof - illl check that one out - reason i havnt modded my boot out for my subs etc over the years - just left the giant fusion box

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=63&fg=15 Part number 3 - just the cover that sits over the lights - im sure i can get them brand new proberly 30ish dollars but wundered if any one had ne they want to sell cheap as only thing external that makes the car look like failure besides busted bumber

Like any car - would depend on what tools you have at your disposal most cars you can just lift the engine and drop the gearbox down to replace the mounts best to do at same time maybe couple of hours if you had a engine hoist etc maybe less if you know your way round the car

Ok Guys Basically what i was getting - FrantiC has explained what Wasted Spark Does, Completly understand. but i was asking What Direct Spark is?? - i figure this is One coil per cylinder and it only fires (dependant on how you have set it up) on each cylinder and what the advantages and dis advantages of both were. wasted spark is easy to setup ( you still have the wasted spark on exhaust stroke), would direct spark give me off a Bang per say and would it be better for a turbo setup - due to each coil could be tunned to fire exactly when needed. or am i on a total tangent and if i am tell me so and well leave it at that.

Thanks FrantiC now does anyone have the advantages of direct spark???