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Hi All, Long time since an update, but after some health issues that have stopped my life for last few years. Finally getting back on track with the car, Updated V5 or something of the manifold is a few weeks away from being all welded up. Once its back it home i will need to run the pipes down from the twin wastegates and finishing plumbing up the exhaust (downpipe for turbo already done)/ intercooler. Then re-pump fuel system for new surge tank .... and then the engine crusade will begin (glad things have got cheaper and more available in last few years)...

Hi All, So a long time ago i had a nose to tail accident (no frame damage) but the left front inner quarter panel and front left face have damage. I have done some work to get this worked out but without actual measurements from another E28 or a reference guide its not going to sit right with me as i don't want to do a bog job. I did find a few frame reference materials online but nothing that really helped or showed me parts of car i needed. Updated pictures, As you can see it is passenger side inner quater panel and took picture of middle as front face is damaged. Thanks for Posts Update: Thanks to people who responded next time i am in wellington you might get a hassle

Awesome, I actually might consider doing mine instead of swapping out for another type of seat.

Just saw the post. Brent at BM World has lot's of info/knowledge and quite a few others. I have done a lot of research into M30 B34/35 Turbo and currently building a High HP engine for my e28 and thanks to help from people on the forum made leaps but life has kept project on slow mo. From the research i have actually done the older M30 blocks are more resilient to boost (make of cast materials) vs later model ones, the difference is the heads are better as time goes on. When considering the B35 vs B25 and block size handling more boost, that all comes down to sleeve strength and size and other variables. My interest would be the weight difference as if you could net similar gains to an b35 in reference to displacement you may actually come out better off if they weigh less. Ultimately what i say it comes down to what you want to do, doing an M30B25 would be unique and done right would net you good gains boosted. Also if you go NA swap rather than boosted its about 300ish for a megasquirt that will run the car so no need for a BMW ECU and its tuneable without issue Good luck and PM me if you have any questions you think i could help with

Hi All, I'm based in lower north island and wondering if anyone has an old M30 cylinder head laying around (pref b35) Doesn't matter if its cracked or missing all pieces, needs to be flat and have exhaust side studs so i can get my custom manifold finished ASAP. Thanks

Hi All, I had no clue which thread to actually put this under, anyway long story short I have a 95 750il (M73B54) if i remember correctly, The engine decided to take a nose dive after ironically after i rebuilt the starter as the inside bushes had given out. After some checking of sensors manually, no matter what i did the car would go into "failsafe mode" and not keep running, So got myself a cable and found the INPA software. Now here is my problem, i am able to read the EWS and other installed devices but not the DME i get a communication fault. i have had a look around and found that there seems to be two versions of the DME installed in the cars DME404 (pre 1/95) and later DME (cant remember version). My problem now is i don't have any clue which version my INPA has and have been unable to source the older "ipo" file which i believe might be needed to read DME to check fuel sensors etc. Please correct me if im wrong, or have any suggestions. I have considered taking to a shop but no-one local has software to read it that i've found. I am based in Manawatu and its not worth my money to transport it to somewhere like Palmerston north to have it looked at. Thanks anyone who reads this and have a good day

Very nice, mines same color but not in that condition to much time in a messy garage, although stupidly i took off front bumper and it got taken as scrap You could always consider an late model m30 swap, very simple to do, but then again a 350 v8 small block drops right in, used to be one in wellington. Like everything its about how much you want to spend vs upgrade. As more power you want the more you will need to spend so the car can actually still handle.

Hi All, Figured i would post before i go out to buy any diagnostic tools etc, as i have heard the V12's need slightly different software to diagnose problems. What happened... Typically ran car every few weeks off my Ute battery with no problems, until one day it started misfiring. So decided to check Rotor and caps to which i found quite dirty and one of back internal covers was broken (figured that was misfire) so cleaned them up. (would love new ones but not in my realm of budget due to some health issues after a knock on the head but that's life) then on first start the "starter" decided to take a dump , i rebuilt it myself. Car now turns over great, but burbles soon as it sparks and stops...or i get a engine fail safe mode warning on dash. My thinking is a sensor has taken a dump but would like thoughts before i purchase any diagnostic tools or waste money i don't have. Thanks for any responses....also located in Levin (if anyone around has the tools and wants some gas money or beers) always down for new connections

I always thought that was creme lol. I'm going to be swapping out mine soon enough, still have a good set of what i would call grey, example below if anyone is interested. weirdly enough my drivers seat is that colour as came out of 525e. Good luck anyway

Hi All, Should be a simple one, the internal dizzy cap cover broke (probably why misfired) Ideas on how to get the rotor holder out, Eg off end of cam so I can put replacement cover on. Centre bolt removed and wd40 + Some penetration oil seems to have pushed alot of crap out but still won't budge and can't afford to break it. Have considered standard size gear puller but means I need to take radiator out for enough room safely. Thoughts??? Will post picture when I get to a pc later. Thanks

Hi Guys, Hopefully in right sort of place, After ideas on replacing my E38 Dizzy caps as they are completed stuffed and i thought i had an ignition sync problem....I do its missing firing 3/4 cyclinders. Now i understand you can use the ones of E28's and a few other models. Does anyone have a good used pair or know where i can get for cheap. Its a only a burnout machine for now until as its de-reged...so any help is appreciated

Hi All, So the weekend was depressing as the timing case broke on my UTE just before the rebuild (more wasted money and hard to find part)...So in my searches on the interweb i came across a local who had a gem sitting in his driveway ready to be refresh or re-purposed. Its an 95 750il w 162k on the clock, its missing a few items but nothing that i am sure i would be able to find here or from our sponsors. Its currently de-registered, so that's where i am un-decided, so thoughts would be awesome as when my engineer finds out about me spending more money on other things i may need somewhere to hide Plan:???

Hi All, Have some spare M30 exhuast flanges sitting around from my build. The ports are slightly off by about 1-2mm on on side due to design change (company side) and wasn't worked out till 2nd set was made. Totally fine for stock or light turbo as runners could be put on outside. They cost me around $100 each at time but ill sell them for $50 each, Ask questions as have a lot of respect for the users on this forum and don't want to screw anyone over or around. x1 = 14mm mild steel x1 = 10mm stainless

I have no idea where my spec sheet went with the details and exact part number 63mm/67mm .85 A/R (Sounds about right) Think HX40 with a bit of magic added from Steve Merc. I believe the ATJ Drijt (D1 NZ) boys are running them in there cars and at the moment using hx35 for mock up

Hi Team, I know this has been discussed in another thread by me but as time has progressed and turbo setup has changed i had to make some extra space and wanted to see if people think this will pass or if i am better just making a new one Orginal: e28 Mount attached to block via 6mm plate (wasn't space friendly) Current: M5 Mount + 10MM Steel Plate attached to e32 block ( i have put threads in the plate so it threads all way through) Or Do i use the spare 10mm steel i have and just create one (welded or just heat up plate and bend then tread) basically be reserve of M5 mount

Hi Everyone, Figured i would put a quick post up to let people know that i will be getting some parts from Vac motorsport in the states for my e28 turbo build. (IF the world doesn't fall apart cause of donald trump) I should be about a month away from doing the purchase, so touch base with me if you want to add anything. - Only extra cost will be shipping from Manawatu area to you and depending on part (maybe some customs cost)

Quick Update: Manifold has been completely re-designed due to changing turbo setup - Now be running Holset HX40R split pulse T3(when it arrives), Two Manifolds are being built with equal length runners x2 40mm wastegates - Just waiting on parts to arrive before getting it mocked up and Tig welded together by a local guy who has helped out big time and convincing some of the local guys to work on for me that wanted nothing to do with it. - Then will be going for HPC Coating along with some other engine parts - Will post pics hopefully next week as we get it mocked up Fuel system parts arrived - Just need to purchase injectors and some more braided hose.

Hi All, I know this has been discussed before awhile back but i have hit a road block with my turbo manifold and wanted peoples opinion before i go and start spending $$$ So i managed to semi build myself an turbo manifold with individual runners but have run into issues on the collector end as i don't really have space for the wastegate unless i mount it on top of collector (which with my welder blowing a gas bottle, i need a new regulator + gas so that's about 350-400 i can put on that or someone else finishing my exhuast off) So check out pics attached and let me know your thoughts (Note i have a twin scroll turbo) 1. Go back to log style manifold (more space but likely wont support my power numbers i want) 2. Keep as is with bottom mount and have someone finish off the manifold 3. Keep same style but change to top mount (only issue is getting 2.5" outlet into two pipes, which i confirmed will just fit between last runner & firewall and 6/5) 4. Buy this and just get a 50mm flange installed - http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-M30-T4-Turbo-Manifold-E30-E32-E34-E28-E24-E23-E9-/131806544376 5. Or go with this guys idea (pictures at top and bottom of page) and make down pipes fit - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=285809 I am personally leaning towards options 3/4/5 but i do like option 5 as i could probably do with materials i currently have and just tac together and get someone to finish off but noticed there is no wastegate (so don't know if space is there) So let me know what you think and if need be we will do a poll and go for it + anyone know any good fabricators in manwatu/welly region as i would prefer local rather than sending the car somewhere else in the country. Note: Topcat , BMWorld and other members have been awesome so far with info and i will be representing bimmersport once this is up and running (dreams)

Firstly i would like to say a big thanks to Topcat and also BMworld for posting pics and also forum links (which i had spent time looking for to no avail) I do really appreciate the knowledge given the fact that you have done this all before I will be taking this all into account and will for sure be updating my project page soon with more details and seriously i can't thank you all enough

Thanks for quick response everyone. I was unaware that the pipe benders can crush and crimp without filling with sand but makes sense. I was only more inclined to use a pipe bender so i could make each individual extractor one clean pipe instead of welding a bunch of elbows and straight pipe (also given i have to put a pipe under the engine mount from turbo) figured a pipe bender was cheaper option in long run. As you can see i am limited on space, i am making adjustments to the two rear ones as they can come out further but sure you get idea.(3rd mock up so far - had to change from top to bottom mount turbo) So options are: (as already have 6m 1.5" sch40) 12T Pipe bender for $185 or $110 for 6 x 90* elbows + 6 x 45* elbows + another cutting disk as they don't survive long haha I would love both but don't have that cash at the moment, comments are welcome good or bad

Hi Guys, If anyone has a steel pipe bender (50mm) that i could borrow it would save me from buying one you would be a life saver. I can put down a deposit as i really only need it for about a day to finish my turbo headers. PM or update post

Hey Everyone, As some people know i have started doing an e28 turbo project (running gt42), i have run into some serious problem with space on exhaust manifold side due to size of turbo 1. Engine mount gets in way of manifold i had designed (turbo was going to be side mounted on right hand side in battery box area otherwise hits the hood if top mounted) Anyway this is a question about modifying the chassis to make it all fit easier or i have to do some serious thinking on how to do it. Question: Pic 1 - Would i get away with cutting this out and re-boxing (which would give a lot of extra space and figure if done right would be just as strong) or is this to much in the way of modifications that it would have to be re-certified or done by a professional (which i don't have cash to do) Any ideas are welcome but the e28 chassis has no space compared to other models

Hey Bud, My engine came out of an e32 originally, i had no issues just putting the engine in same place except for the right hand side engine mount which needed to be re-fabbed. The big difference i found between the 2 and can take pictures if i can find the old e28 one if it hasn't been used for scrap it. The front left hand side by where power steering pump is attached has a mounting bracket (that to me looked like engine mount - its not off course ) that sits down the side of the pan which takes up space and doesn't look that nice to be honest. Message me if you want a pic and ill see what i can do.

Hi All, Seen i have started my project i have decided that i should increase the size of my radiator. With some cutting / welding of non structual parts i have worked out a size i can fit in. I have space for 650mm wide x 440mm height x 50 deep. I have had a look around a few places and as usual i find i have to spend half my life trying to find spec details for radiators if im going to purchase offself as alot of companies go car model etc... we all know the story. So figured i would post here and see if anyone has any thourghts or have anyone they have used before. Thanks

Note i will be moving this to the project page shortly