hotwire

It is almost a straight swap, the pre-facelift and face-lifts use different engine management systems, your 87 uses jetronic, and the 90 uses motronic.

You need to make sure that when you pick up the new motor you need to pick up the complete loom with it.

Its as simple as removing the old motor complete with the old loom, and installing the new motor with its own loom attached, push the new plug through the firewall, plug in the ecu and your away.

There is one small thing you need to modify with the rev counter but its not a big job.

Old motor out,

New motor in,

Drive.

A little more than that, the vehicle - engine loom is also a different plug set up so one or other needs splicing in.

Also - make sure you also get the Motronic ECU.

Snapped!!!

Yep, Pheonix Yellow - Love the colour - suits the E46, hard to imagine on the bigger cars though

How can you tow it if it won't move in neutral?

If it doesn't move in neutral - even by pushing - then either the insides of the gearbox have seized or its not really in neutral and you have an engine problem. You need to troubleshoot more.

In addition to that, you sound like you have an electrical problem.

Wait - is it auto or manual gearbox?

Yea fair call - my slip up. Contradicted myself somewhat

Cant remember if Ljet M20 has a bleed screw in the thermostat housing, the later Motronic does.

If it does - bleed through that.

If not - I normally 1/2 -2/3 fill the system, heater on & get engine up to temperature allowing air to bleed out - then fill up as required.

They can be a prick for airlocks.

Unlikely though if the cooling system hasn't been touched.

Is it using water? - Could be thermostat

They are common for head gaskets when they have been overheated -have you checked the oil for water in it?

If using water - could also be consumming via combustion & not into oil.

Also - M20 engines are belt driven (& interference) so make sure belt is replaced as per schedule

if i was close to a big city, and last time i took a mechanic it cost me 200 and they couldnt tell me more than i knew was wrong with the car, and in the end took the cylinder head off (and ohh there was water in the block) which i had figured it was

but now back to my problem at hand, it was working fine then just stoped so thats what confuses me

and if i take it to a mechanic two options

Tow the car in netural for 20kms with no power steering or brakes

or get a car trailer and still have to mega mish it with that

soo yea, ive done everything else on this car myself and just dont have big buks to be wating on a m30 2.8 - when i could put my m30 3.5 in and test the gearbox while im doing the engine swap

With respect - as already said - take it to a mechanic - & obviously a better one than last time:-

Your fault description is rather vague & it sounds as if you will be stabbing in the dark in trying to diagnose it.

If no trailer option then tow it carefully

One thing to check first though - is the engine siezed?

thanks for that i am a bit confused is the main radio tuner in the boot and not at the front end?

Yes, behind the bulge as stated. The monitor in the front is just a dumby - all the control units are in the boot area

+1

While we are on that, I hate those who drive with their foglights on all the time too! Blinds other drivers. The LTSA website clearly says they can only be used in bad weather, and when NOT to blind other road users.

Can't understand why they changed the rules re the wiring - I can remember having spots on my old RX2 in the eighties, and having to wire them to dip with the cars dip switch.

Rant over

+2

Fog lights. As already stated - when set CORRECTLY they will NOT dazzle oncoming vehicles. They are a permanantly dipped light casting a flat horizontal beam & when set correctly the glare ouput on a beamsetter is no higher than dip headlight beam.

Problems arise when WOF's don't check setting properly or inconsiderate people fit driving/spot beams in these spoiler holes where they are an uncontrolled light output.

In all my years in the trade I have seen several fog light rule changes. Early eighties - when fog lights came on you had to lose all other headlights (dip included) but retain park lights.

Then after 87 & the mass flood of Jap imports fitted with factory fogs & operating independently of headlights - saw the powers that be change the rules to allow these cars to comply. However when retrofitting fog lights - the old rule still applied.

Nowdays a vehicle can have a pair of fog lights independently switchable, along with dip beam headlights & 4 high beam lights (this can be 2 factory H/B & two driving/spot) + 2 daytime running lights if desired

Their ruling does state fogs to be used only in adverse conditions - very grey area I reacon - what defines the cutoff for judgment of adverse conditions? Love to challenge that in court:-

Surely the more light visable the better (assuming non dazzling) - more concentration should be aimed at consistant enforcement of lamp types & correct setting of in the WOF inspections

Hey guys,

Just after some advice on where to take an E30 speedo for repairs. It stops working when you get to 70km/hr and drops to 0. We have had it out and one of the resisters looks a bit buggered, not sure if this is the only issue though. Is there anywhere in Auckland that someone can recommend? I know there is a place in Newton Gully that I will take it to if there are no other recommendations.

Cheers

At work - Have dealt with Robinsons Instrument Services with these dashes before

Interesing reading.

So Nick - what part did you come back & edit - the at least 75% of people will try & lick their elbow?

For the record - I did - try - that is

Yea came in on that this avo - big balls for him to be doing that - takes a lot of trust in the old man.

Vicki didn't do a bad job either:-

Love the colour! Suits it well. Good on you.

Absolutely awesome... no other words.

+1 End of story!

Welcome.

As has been confirmed. NZ cars were generally fairly sparse with electric goodies. Some later ones with TV & semi wired ready for nav

Typically Jap origin for these bells & leather & then convert radio (if necessary -if before 09/01build) & nav to run in NZ. I can help with this:-

As you say Jap motorsports don't often have leather or TV /Nav.

If you can get a low milage Jap one with a confirmed history then you can get good bang for your buck.

Always nice to have one with all the goodies & working. You can add Bluetooth, DVD system, Ipod & all intergrated into the vehicle system

TV can be programmed for "in motion" too. Though reception can be an issue in outer areas

If Jap - 01 onwards best - they are facelift, usually prewired for phone (where factory Bluetooth is more easily fitted & if late enough that year - will have world radio tuner fitted

Common problem!

Hey guys as some of you know e30 windows work when the doors are open, mine still do! But they are very temporary when the doors shut, sometimes they work, other times the lights on the switches fade or die, and the window will not work?

Could it be a connection in the switch??? Somehow i think its more as they work fine with doors open..? Help!

Have covered this before:

Do they only not work when the door is nearly shut - interior light turning off? Is this consistant?

Do the mirrors & fan not work either?

If so - the unloader relay is not working -K7 from memory.

Check for a loose /disconnected black wire (from memory) at the starter - this is the wire that earths the relay to allow those circuits to operate

More involved to put back together.

Cant start when not in car - starter mounts to bell housing.

Quick rundown:

Yes replace rings, big end bearings & maybe crankshaft bearings (depending on condition)

Need to check /measure bores for wear - no point of replacing rings if bores are worn.

Yes replace all gaskets

Check oil pump

Check water pump

Head should be checked/tested/ resurfaced/skimmed if necessary.

Valve stem seals replaced

Should replace head studs, rest ok

Replace any hose etc that are suspect

Loved the E30 as soon as I rode in and drove one, waited nearly 20 years to buy my 'vert as it was owned by friends and family from new :love: .

When the E36 came out, I much preferred it, more modern looks, better specs, more power, quicker, etc.

But now the E36 has been up-dated by later versions, I feel the E30 has now achieved a cult, classic status and the E36 is an in-betweener, it's not a classic and it's not the latest and greatest.

So it's E30 for me, even if you offered me a mint E36 325 (or even 328) convertible, with all the toys, I would not swap it for my E30.

But if it was an E36 or anything of equivalent market value, it would have to be the E36!

Yep, totally agree - the E36 when new was certainly breaking new ground over the E30 & arguably much better but now being an in between model has lost some appeal while the E30 has gained a cult status.

I can't really see the E36 doing such a thing -nor later models for that matter in years to come. I guess time will tell:-

Yep H1

Oh. I only heard it from the bentley manual, and thats a US publication I think.

hmm. Mines NZ new.

Bit rainy to check now.

Cheers for that

Some early 318/320s had sealed beams (NZ new inc)

Easy to tell, the front of a sealed beam is convex, the semi sealed is realitively flat.

In the semi - you can see the bulb inside - the sealed will have a filament.

In the sealed beam the wiring plug will connect directly to the terminals at the back of the lamp - the semi will connect to the bulb

Have driven plenty of of both E30's & E36's - both great cars I reacon & the 36 a natural progression in development.

That said - IMO - the E30 is a classic which I love (facelift tech 2 & M3 cars specifically), the E36 I think as comparibly boring in looks - no offense guys even though a good driving car.

Both, as all cars, have weak links - E30's - cracked dashes, broken sunroof & window winders, broken glove box latches to name a few - all common failures but equally E36's with hood lining down around the ears, door trims falling apart, heater controls failing are all common.

For me its E30 or an E46 which I reacon has regained style body wise

No idea about the speedo and indicator, but with regards to removing the gauge cluster, you do not need to remove the steering wheel. It takes a little bit of maneuvering but you can get it out, with the glass facing downwards.

Probably depends on steering wheel fitted - some do need removing - been there- done that

Dash problem - could be an earth fault to it, otherwise probably an internal fault.

Indicator - Does the switch feel sloppy or over sensitive in switching on that side?

Removing dash - easy - but you do need to remove the steering wheel.

In the 320i Allow an hours work max - whatever their rate is.

Firstly - problem wont be inside the car

Likely to be a bulb or connection to it for the headlight - Check the riveted wiring connections through the steel cap on the back of the lamp (common fault)

Park light - is the R/H rear going? If not - a fuse

Otherwise if it is - probably a bulb.

With respect though - if you are not sure what you are doing - best get an auto sparky to check it - a 5 min job (to diagnose anyway)