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hotwire

Race Series Competitors
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Posts posted by hotwire


  1. shouldnt matter about windscreen washer fluid,But if it says "intensive clean" on the tank do your self a favour and put some in (can be bought from dealer)Some say the coolant should only be BMW blue but the most important thing is you put in an antifreeze at the recomended proportions and change it regularly(2 years max)

    Interestingly, recently on our E39 I had to replace the washer pump - once I found the B thing :angry:

    It was badly corroded & talking to the dealer - was told it is quite common on these - due to acidic nature of Bars Bugs - strange - I have always used this stuff on all my cars & never a problem.

    With the replacement pump he shouted a bottle of genuine cleaner :) so I guess i will be using that in future


  2. 700 sounds about right (as already said) It is predetermined by engine management system, a fault in the system would generally give a sporadic uneven idle.

    Even if you were able to slow it down - it would only be by 50 -100 rpm max - which would have an absolutely negligable effect on fuel consumption & at which time you would probably introduce other issues.


  3. Ok Its taken 2 Months to sort out my idle problems.

    Lots of people have looked at the Beast, put it one scanners, checks fault code blah blah blah.

    Finally took it to a company (Craig Gilberts) and a mechanic that specializes in Mustangs took a look at it played for 10 minutes and come up with "its the PCV valve" sure enough a part sent overnight from Christchurch and wahoo no more rough idle.

    I am thinking to my self "all these specialist people in this town and all the machines this car has been connected to and a 10 minute look from a guy with no training in BMW's finds the fault" Nothing like the help of a good mechanic.

    Just though I would mention this as all the places on the web I have been to and all the people I have talked to not one of them thought about the PCV valve. No disrespect for any of the guys here because you didn't see the car.

    Great that it's fixed & proves you can't ignore the basic operating principals of an engine. These don't change.

    BUT, with modern cars there are any number of possibilities to cause some problems & with a modern cars diagnostic abilities it is much better to simply hook up a scanner first to identify a possible already diagnosed fault/s.

    As Glen said - with the skope - you can also monitor live time operation of the engine management system.

    If it confirms a problem - great!

    With nothing confirmed wrong in these fields - it then becomes a "back to basics" diagnosis to confirm the fault.

    Believe me - this procedure can prevent a lot of headaches when diagnosing problems.

    And yes - these scanners/skopes are expensive - ours was about 16k & now with updates costing around $500 - but boy they are a worthwhile piece of kit


  4. Yeah, I don't even bother to place negative feedback any more as when I do, the trader on the other side will always place negative feedback on me as a form of retaliation. I have 4 negative feedbacks, and only one of them was justified but the other three were retaliation. Kinda kills the whole idea of the feedback system.

    Agreed - I have had the same issue - Have only ever posted a Neg feedback a few times & for genuine reasons - a couple of times only to have them bounce one back in retaliation.

    One was where they had placed a positive to me before I received the goods, slack communication from them & substantial delay in delivery & with parts missing - I placed a neg but stated in it that I would reverse that once sorted. They imeadiately edited with a neg (dumb) - this then involved me phoning them to agree to have both of us remove each others feedbacks since they couldn't edit twice - that defeats the purpose of the system.

    These guys had similar dealings with other buyers of theirs & similar tit for tat feedbacks.

    And guess what - TM didn't want to know.

    Second was where the trader was disabled a while later so was able to have that one removed after that.


  5. Best to have them removed & checked on an injector test machine. Can then all be checked for leakage, flow rate, spray pattern making sure all are even & within specs - or confirming culprit/s.

    At the same time flushing & cleaning. Best to replace seals & filter baskets while out too.

    Most times injectors are servicable without requiring replacement.

    Bear in mind also that injectors do always have a distinctive "clicking" when operating.


  6. It'll be just the one speaker.

    The USD price is $41.57 fior the woofer on the hi-fi system (part 65138352687)

    Be careful:

    There are 3 x speaker systems:

    Normal (no amplifier, 6-speakers). Woofer = 65138369265

    Hi-Fi (with amplifier, 10-speakers) Woofer = 65138352687

    Top-Hi-Fi (with DSP-amplifer, 12-speakers) Woofer = 65138369069

    Check the part number of your speaker when you pull it out.

    As yours is a NZ-new, you might only have the low 6-speaker system (I've seen a few NZ-New E39s where they scrimped on the sound system)

    The OEM woofer speakers are glued air-tight to a sealed tuned enclosure, which is sperate to the door enclosure.

    I am not sure if the enclosure is included with the speaker - if not it will be fun unsticking the glue! Of course, the replacement speaker will need to be glued and sealled air tight as well.

    As Jochen said - $80 for one. No, it comes seperate - you have to remove it from enclosure (carefully) & refit replacement - easy enough to do.

    Personally I don't think there is a lot to be gained by changing to a different speaker set up - when working correctly - the OE system is fine & besides - it requires butchering the OE enclosure assy to accomodate different speakers. The originals are also matched appropriately to the factory amp output - no gain to be had from putting a zillion watt speaker to a 20 watt output amp. - A common misconception it seems.


  7. sh*t - this thread has caused some defence for the poor old E30:-

    Agreed in that a bog standard car can look somewhat lame, but as said already - in a properly kitted disguise, subtlely lowered & with the right wheels - they can look staunch & have a ton of character.

    The M cars do as standard

    They drive well, realitively cheap & easy to fix & good ones are only going to get more collectable as time goes on -

    dont reacon that can be said for the E36 - boring in comparison.

    Reason for popularity on here is realitive to the numbers on the road - there were shitloads, oops, I meant boatloads of them came in from Japan a few years ago & now price has dwindled to the point where they have a cult following amonst young drivers (and not so young)

    Can be described as a modern classic I reacon

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