hotwire

Had to replace a front L/H woofer a while ago in our E39 - was becoming scratchy - noticeable with voice reproduction mainly.

Looked to retrofit aftermarket but required mods to factory mounting set up so replaced with a new OE unit - about $80 from BMW. I dont have a problem with the factory set up

Best get it professionally checked otherwise youré only guessing.

Could be an airlock if not properly bled (common)

Could be a head gasket - leakdown test it confirm

Yes I & numerous others I have spoken to have commented on that - ours just stays on 24hr clock - better that than the yanks mm/dd set up

Yep 86 should only have the one external. yes can put the 89 one in place of.

Not designed as servicable - crimped together

I can supply one if you wish - PM me if you want one

Cheers

Does the alternator light come on with the key? Try jump starting, if it starts - does the light go off?

- May have a charging issue. Are the battery connections clean & tight? (not that this will cause it to cut out) Not charging will though.

There could be a few things to cause these symptoms - if not familiar then best to get it checked professionally.

1/2" much more versatile than 3/8 IMO - you can get a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer to use on any 3/8 sockets/ torx sockets.

That what I have.

You may want to get him to measure that one to clarify - I reacon its atleast 3/8 - maybe 1/2

Has it still got the long range tank in the boot? If so - know someone who may want it.

Got it in. Now just need to tighten up all the bolts - is a torque wrench necessary or just do em all up good and tight? There are torque specs in the bentley manual (arrived from amazon Wednesday before last which was in half the time they quoted thanks amazon).

What bolts/washers/nuts do I actually need to replace? Manual says universal joint shaft self locking nuts, tie rod ends nuts, steering rack mounting bolts (surely not?), and washers for banjo bolts where fluid lines connect to the gear.

Thanks.

Edit - for a torque wrench I am looking at this, just waiting for a reply on drive size. Everything else on there is thrice that price. According to this thread jonnesway is an ok brand..

Just to enlighten - that aint a 1/4 torque wrench - looks at least 3/8 but more like 1/2 to me (hard to tell from pic) but assuming 1/2" then that is a good one to have.

As Mike said though - no need for a torque wrench for the job youré doing now

Your 86 only has one pump under floor in front of L/H rear wheel - right?

Your 89 may also have one in the same place - if so, you can use that as it is also the high pressure pump - the pick up pump (low pressure) is in the tank in that car.

If the 89 only has the one pump intank then that is a high pressure unit

Really up to you, I also have a manual rack but to date haven't used in mine. I have simply removed the belt & left everything in situ. I too understand that the manual rack is slower than the power unit - hense not convinced on changing.

Second question - not sure on plumbing variations there.

Engine is straight forward to time....

Align mark on crank belt drive gear with mark on timing cover - at about the 1 oclock position

Align cam gear mark with mark on head - L/H side of head - near top

No special tools

Much easier to time it up before fitting to car.

Edit:

To adjust belt - fit tensioner, release & lock. Rotate crank two full revolutions clockwise (engine rotation), recheck marks are aligning. Loosen tensioner bolts again to allow retension then retighten bolts.

How many English/British people on here??

= too many.

Bit rough!

First two problems will relate to the "unloader relay" not activated. Look for a wire off at the starter motor.

Speedo - How does the road speed relate to speedo reading?

Did you change the diff? If so - what speedo pick-up is in it?

Totally agree

DITTO!!! When are the bloody powers that be going to wake up & smell the roses??

That plug is certainly indicating oil consumption

Just did an E36 compact today at work - two torx screws at the top, needed to remove steering wheel to get dash cluster out.

Bulb holder is a beige one - need to replace the whole thing with one the same

Jason,

No - they aren't a direct replacement, you would need to change the whole mounting assy as a complete unit (lamps are different)

Also wiring plugs are different from pre to F/L so would need to adapt these as well

Absolutely in agreeance with Jochen. I was the "guinea pig" with the first Nav conversion in our E39 - a sh*t load of research & a punt - at that stage, although confident, neither of us were absolutely sure as to whether it would work.

I would, in future, look to bring a car from Singapore (specifically BMW) - due to the fact of compatibilty of electronics with here. I hate having something fitted that wont work.

I, through work, have seen many Ex Singapore cars & really have not seen issues with BMW. Same certainly cannot be said about Benz - have seen failing body/window trims & crumbing wiring insulation (can of worms for future) in these cars at only 5 or so years old. Not seen these issues in comparible BMW's

My target would be as young as possible - so that time in that adverse environment was at a minimum.

Also to confirm that the vehicle was fully specced with heating options - some aren't.

Thanks Guys, someone had to put a number up, didn't they?

See some of you tomorrow night at the BMWCC AGM I guess?

Yea but older is wiser aint it? HB fella!

Catch you & others tomorrow night - all going well

Auto Sparky - & for a long time. Apart from a stint overseas & another as a sales rep, after each, have ventured back to roots. A trade where theres always something to learn. Is both satisfying & frustrating.

Company drive - good old 93 Nissan Terrano - handy for the race car too!

"Mint I got them out. Had to hit it fail hard aye. Turned the top nut into a pankake."

Sounds like you hit down on the tie rod end nut itself? If so - this is a definite no no, doesn't matter if you are replacing the whole thing but definitely NOT the way to do it.

As Mike said - Hit the side of the strut eye - NOT the tie rod itself. By impacting the strut -you are trying to "shock" the joint to seperate (while levering with downward pressure at the same time)

The nut is wound on loosely to save damage to the thread if you miscue & hit the rod.

Can't remember ECU numbers specifically but having sensor at front of engine - this is the crank angle sensor (reading off the toothed gear on front of crank) & makes it Motronic 1.3.

The early Motronic system (325i) had the sensor pick ups in the bell housing instead.

Yep - Looks nice - Love the E39 touring, agreed it could do with sitting a little lower

YUK!!! I say

Like bigger rims but reacon that's an overkill by far - particually when it's dragging it's butt

I think they suit 18's, - 20's max but each to their own:-

Yes it is the no.9 in the diagram. it is rubber I think but it has gone hard and cracked and the pieces have come off but thanks for that I will try the dealer for a new one.

Have you tried using the boot lid as the aerial?

Not feasible to try to use bootlid for aerial - to do so the lid must be insulated from the chassis (body) of the car.

Cars using this setup had the bootlid mountings designed accordingly. Typically these were older Jap cars & although they probably worked OK in Japan (with stronger reception/ more repeaters there) - they were never overly successfull here. Years ago I fitted numerous 80's Mitsi Sigmas with conventional aerials because their radio reception using bootlid was crap here in NZ