hotwire

Firstly - problem wont be inside the car Likely to be a bulb or connection to it for the headlight - Check the riveted wiring connections through the steel cap on the back of the lamp (common fault) Park light - is the R/H rear going? If not - a fuse Otherwise if it is - probably a bulb. With respect though - if you are not sure what you are doing - best get an auto sparky to check it - a 5 min job (to diagnose anyway)

Can be found on Ebay easily enough. Originals now often past their best & also not many manual boxes lying around spare to get one from

I take it you are meaning E30. Not sure on thread size of filter. Why not just fit a dual adapter in the oil sender position & run both senders from that?

I have given you the rundown on this before for your car - Jochens answer will be the same no doubt. Theres no getting around replacing the nav unit & fitting a retrofit phone kit for systems to work in NZ

Yep well done - nice car. You may well find the CD changer is crook - mine fails periocially (must get it fixed) have had a few through work that I have sent for repairs

Dave - you might need to revert to the hammer option Seriously though- looking good! Doing a great job

You may well need to undo (or at least loosen) the 3 13mm bolts that secure the handbrake lever to the floor. The metal adjusment end of the cable needs to release from under the cable guide on the lever itself before the cable can slide out through the tube.

Outer lamps are dip, inners high. Because the outer lamps in this system are a single filament bulb - they are a permenent dip & stay on in both beams. Yellow is dip beam (outer) White is high beam (inner) Brown is earth Can't remember park light wires off hand but will be grey with a trace (different trace either side)

Nup sorry - not at all my idea of an E39. 18's with subtle lowering I reacon as best but each to their own:-

You can as an option use a S/H barrell assy & get a locksmith to modify the tumblers to suit your key. You'd be up & running for $100 max

Heater issue could be a result of airlock too - as mentioned. It could also be due to faulty heater valve/s - these are common to fail in the E36. Or, if climate control - a faulty panel control - again a common problem.

Fixable yes - but bottom line is - you didn't get what was advertised. I would be demanding the correct unit be sent to you...

E39's started in 95 with IBus

Yep - IBus, E46's & some others KBus. New cars E60/90 etc & E65 use MOST - a fibre optic data link -standing for (media oriented systems transport)

Yep Martyn's right - Electronics - Nav/Radio are the same as here. TV is worldwide. Singapore origin are renowned for electronic issues along with rubber/ plastic failures due to heat/humidity but I must say i have seen thes issues on other cars more than BMW's. Have worked with several ex Sing Beemers that have not had issues. I would be comfortable sourcing a car from Singapore but would want a young, low milage one - where it has not had excessive exposure time to the elements there. Also - make sure that the car is fully optioned - heater etc - I am aware of some not specced with with for that market.

Thats good

EDIT!! Dave, E28 headlight switching system is opposite - supplies power - but problem quite likely still the same if both beams not working (& fog lights if fitted) but working H/Beam flash. Let me know if you can't sort it

Dave Im assuming E28 is wired the same, because both beams are no go - probably points to headlight switch itself. This earths the low beam headlight relay, along with fog light & dip switch to turn them on accordingly. The headlight flash switches to earth separately. If Milan has the same symptom - then probably the same applies If H/Beam works normally - the could well be low beam relay at fault - relay K4 in fusebox High & low beam lights are all fused separately.

Milan, do the Hi beams work on normal H beam position or just the flash position? - two different circuits Has the car still got the lamp fail display - if so does it show dip beam out?

Either the power supplies or earth are wrong. Check you have a true acc & battery supply, also that if the earth wire is connected to a vehicle wire - make sure it is a brown one

If they aint broke - don't fix! You won't notice any gain if there is nothing wrong with them. They can fail by high resistance (damaged carbon/ corroded connections) or by leaking & tracking high voltage through damage or just breakdown in insulation, but these situations will cause a misfire. If undamaged & no corrosion then leave alone. They are also not common to damage as they are well protected on these engines As already said - with standard ign system - these are more than enough

Yuen's Right - you definitely can't remove these covers. Depending what year your car is - if pre 2000, you could fit facelift lamps which look more modern. Also agreed - the lights suit the car

Agreed with Glen, I have had these at work - simple if caught in time, an absolute prick if not. Had one (not in time) where I was eventually able to drill out & bastidise the barrell assy to remove it from the housing without damaging BUT cost the owner several hours work - instead of 10 minutes

Is the system dual climate control? Control panels are common to fail but sounds like yours is working. As Glen said - Fan resistors are also common to fail (a small aluminium unit mounted in heater box on passenger side with from memory - a 5 pin wiring plug. If unsure - best get it professionally checked to confirm the fault - they are quite expensive to replace so guessing - not really an option.

He is - but by the wonders of the internet - keeps in touch