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Posts posted by hotwire
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You can convert from manual to electric - I have done one before.
A bit of effort & 2-3 hrs work - you need to remove & swap the whole rack assy - meaning removing lid, overhead console & trim/frame work of sunroof, swapping rack assy, mounting motor assy, run wire down pillar & connect to power source (already there). Reassemble in reverse.
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Ollies description - couldn't have put better myself. This is the case if you are replacing bearings individually.
You can also commonly buy as a complete hub/bearing assy - this is what I did - then just a case of removing & replacing hub as Ollie described but without changing the bearings.
Check the differences in price between the two options.
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saves me alot of hassle having that info
cheers,
and i take it the regulator is the black divider between the windable window and the triangular piece of glass ?
No, The regulator is the mechanism that supports/ winds the window up & down - remove this to be able to remove the main glass
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Hi & welcome to the site.
Yep I can sort you with a NZ tuner for your car - only way to fix the problem successfully. Band expanders in these are CRAP!! With proper tuner - the reception is brilliant.
Can also sort nav for you too if you wish - a great system in these cars as everyone who has will verify.
PM me for details or 027 6146607
Cheers
Grant
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Also, When upgrading monitor from 4:3 to 16:9, bear in mind that the video module will also require upgrading to a 16:9 unit to be able to obtain 16:9 screen picture.
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Absolutely with Glen.
Firstly - NO room in cluster for aftermarket.
Secondly - Dont butcher!
Thirdly - As Glen said - should be no reason the original couldn't be recalibrated to suit by a decent instrument repair outfit. IMO the best solution by far!
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Selling due to lack of use.....WTF !
Id do my shopping one item at a time if I owned that....drive the car man for crying out loud.
Yep, me too!!
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From memory, I think the window glass needs to come out first, the divider can then be slid forward to allow access of the Qtr window
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I bet there is some trim you could get which would allow you to run a euro plate...prolly more than $82 tho
If like E39 etc - yes a different bumper trim on front bumper but still leaves the bootlid a problem - I imagine E60 etc are the same for the rear?
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Easy job - up to 1/2hr each side, comes as complete hub assy - remove old one - refit new, done!
Might get a shock at the price though - I screwed Repco & got for them for $130 a side, usually well over $200 each from memory. Price around
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Found E21 in ETK - it is infact different to E30 assy
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My cars a e30 87 coupe with a Uniden alarm
What happens is when i press the button to unlock the doors, sometimes the alarm disables but the doors wont unlock. I then have to use the key, jump in and proceed to push the drivers lock up and down till it catches and starts working again.
I took it to a place to get fixed and they couldn't find anything wrong with it or know what it could be.
Has anyone had a similar problem before or any suggestions on what the problem could be?
Uniden alarms
IMO. Depending on alarm model - the locking side can play up, probably best to take it to someone that knows what they are doing - an auto sparky or decent alarm installer - you may chase your tail otherwise.
Do you say that the alarm doesn't always turn off too? - you say "sometimes disables". If so - sounds like alarm fault
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That little T piece (six inches from the jets) is also a valve to stop syphoning back. They are common to fail with age -both leaking & blocking. Pull the supply hose off & see how the flow is - this will determine whether the valve or the pump is the problem, more likely valve.
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I'm going to assume its an e30 your talking about, and can almost be certain that the brake light sensor is the problem, (the one above the brake pedal) just adjust it, common problem.
Bleed the brakes because its good to do it anyway.
Yep, if you mean rear lights then will be this switch, could also be faulty, if the later version switch then could also be adjustment as said
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As said earlier, an auto trans is a specialist field - get it checked by a proffesional for an appraisel
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Get another, S/H will do, you'll be chasing you tail trying to repair that one & have it stay fixed.
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Problem certainly sounds like viscous fan not working correctly, but also could be a flow problem - partially blocked radiator or thermostat playing up.
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Ok i'll make it nice and easy..$2500 as i really could do with selling the car quickly. Paid $4,000 just a couple of weeks ago as i felt that was a fair price for good condition 1990 320 Manual with fairly low milage given it's age. Original idea was to convert this to my race car as the colour is so much better given that my car along with many other all seem to be Metallic grey or similar dark colours. However have decided to vinyl wrap my race car instead as the cost to swap everything over was just not economical. Usual thing with me impulse buy then sell a few weeks later at a loss. Could really do with having the space back as my trailer is now having to sit outside.
Mark, Your car literally outshines all it's opposition regardless of any colour similarity -looks great as it is
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Nah, 2 weeks I think. I have an essay due on Friday which I haven't started, a Bio-science exam next week & an Organic Chemistry exam the week after that... Then I have a 4 or 5 day break only to return on the first day to a population health exam :'(
My commitment stays with my plan of being a heart surgeon in hopefully less than a decade
Hand them this pic as your essay
Bloody nice car alright!
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A few of us have experience with BMW conversions, dont know anyone that has with Audi/VW yet -to my knowledge - including Jochen. I believe Audi NZ now offer nav as an option so probably can be done but would need to be researched. Being new release here- you would probably have to also buy an original map disc from the stealers too.
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Didn't know they made one. I thought all the Diesels were 6 cylinders now anyway.
Yep, X5's for one came with V8 diesel option
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Could always pull it apart and shorten the plastic thing that pushes the aerial up
Can't, it will then unwind past end of cord on up stroke & not return. Short answer no - get a different aerial.
You could switch the battery feed to it to interupt supply at the desired height but would be a pain to do this every time
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If it is him, it makes a mokery of Trademe where a member that is disabled can simply register again under a different user profile & continue on as before & in desguise of previous history. Until several people are burnt - his true colours are not going to surface again.
Tie Rods
in Maintenance
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Without access to specialist tools - Use a FBH (..... big hammer) & with the nut loosened - a sharp "accurate" impact blow to the outer strut mount for the joint - or better - use a drift to hit to save possible damage from a wayward hit.
They usually come without much hassle. If not - a bar to lever downwards while impacting it.