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hotwire

Race Series Competitors
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Everything posted by hotwire

  1. Nup - Switzeland, close though...
  2. Wholesalers don't sell to general public. Interested as to why do you need to rewire? How much "rewire" are you talking about & why do you need to? Serious mods or damaged wiring? It would surprise me if it needed a total rewire. If no mods - would be much cheaper easier to get a loom from a same model wreck.
  3. Nup, not at all. It's not going into electronics around the battery. And reason for not disconnecting initially is that it is easier to clean the bulk of the crap off while terminals are connected to the posts.
  4. As Josh said, it should have a DIN 85 or 88 (number depending on manufacturer) - it should NOT be smaller, why would BMW put in a battery bigger than required? They (the person supplying) obviously has no idea what they are on about. Especially when starting at $700 - WTF? Even from BMW the correct battery is nowhere near that. I suspect for that price they put in a DIN 66 which is undesized for the application.
  5. No need to disconnect the battery first. Boiling water poured over the terminals will dissolve the corosion. (makes less mess than baking soda too). Then disconnect & clean the contact points too. Plenty of boiling water poured slowly over the connections is the answer. Make sure you completely remove all water from the compartment afterwards. (can't remember offhand if there is a drain plug in there). Best practice to disconnect neg first (not essential but safer if you were to short the spanner) Does sound like a battery/connection fault, best go to a sparky & get things checked.
  6. ^^^ Nup sorry. No sympathy for him. I wonder how much he owes the country in unpaid fines... speculating of course
  7. ^^^ Don't disagree but there should NOT be a requirement to outlay a cost on fitting another unit that is inferior to the OEM. After all, insurance companies are more concerned on immoblizer side of an alarm than the alarm function itself.
  8. This in the E46 Jon? Glad all is well! Same happened to the better half in the E39 a few years ago, a slightly better place to happen though - main st in TA. Still I had to go & change the tyre though, and in front of an audience. Funny thing was - I had only days earlier checked the tyres - didn't notice the very inside shoulder down to wire
  9. Yep they were calcium back then. I have replaced many at work in Beemers over the years, most have been at least 10yrs old, my E39 at just over 11. Just fitted a DIN 92 to a Benz at work this morning (we are Hella Endurant), cost the youngish woman $370 Had to convince her that was the battery required for that car - replace like with like. The joys of owning a car you can't afford to maintain.
  10. Take the thermostat out & check it. Wouldn't be the first time I have seen a faulty new one. Also - did you get the S/H radiator checked for flow? S/H cap WTF - put a new one on
  11. Should take them to task over it. They have no idea what they are on about. BMW, & other Euro vehicles for that matter, as mentioned have very complex immobilization. This is requirement over there. It is streets ahead of anything out of Asia, certainly of comparable age vehicle. Short of swapping the complete EWS system or deprogramming the immobilization function of the DME, the car will not start. ANY aftermarket alarm/immobilizers are easily overidden. I have had to do this plenty of times at work & with callouts over the years due to lost remotes etc. Time can be bought to delay stealing by attention to detail when installing - as to how well integrated & concealed the install is. When installing an alarm, I go to great lengths to discuise the install & conceal the module. In any case it can be identified from factory when known what you are looking for.
  12. Dave, connect to the vanity light supply - lamp above the sunvisor, this is switched, not delay though
  13. My thoughts & argument on religion exactly!
  14. Allan you are on the right track. No need to turn the pin either way though - just needs inserting. The pin simply depresses a spring loaded locking tab to allow the barrel to come out. Key needs to be on ACC position to allow the tab to depress - not sure off hand if that is actually upright. I have had them come straight out, have also had trouble with some - depends how you hold your tongue
  15. You don't need to go OEM, but go for a quality brand replacement - HCB etc. The originals are usually Varta & have a great lifespan - usually around 10yrs, often more. Not sure if yours has a DIN 66 or 92, replace with the size it has though. From memory, mid $300's for DIN 92 Mark, I would say the "3" is probably the same size battery
  16. No don't Chris, much as I understand where you are coming from, it is a great waste to part out a perfectly running car.
  17. Ha Dave, maybe on E30's but you wouldn't get a grinder or blade into many jappers. Once they are out - I just replace with cap screws & wind them up tiiight!
  18. Yup, seem to be crap on Euro cars. I unknowingly (& cos they were cheap through work) put them into the E12 many years ago, certainly better than the F##@#d ones I removed but not great. Still in there as the car is hardly used, but each time I drive it - reminds me I should change them
  19. Cant remember on the E30, although I should. That said -haven't actualy removed an ignition barrel from one. Sounds like the usual shear bolt. If so, a hammer & centre punch to ease them out. Just removed one at work today from a Corolla to have the lock repaired. Bottom bolt was easy, top one a right pain in the butt - tucked up inside the dash
  20. Yours is on the changeover so may be either way. Does it have a monitor or just radio in the dash?
  21. Well if the problem only started after the manifold gasket was replaced, & that is all that was done - retrace those steps
  22. With the rewritten description, yes the alt or circuit. If the light stays on with engine running then yes you have a charging issue. However, if the dash is out but the engine still cranks ok - there will be another issue as well.
  23. Matt, sorry don't agree. Not at all likely to be battery, & anyway, much better to diagnose than chuck parts randomly at it. Charging etc can be checked in a couple of minutes.
  24. We just want racing, don't really care with whom, & because we did a couple of meetings with NZV8's last year, I guess this is where this has come from.
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