hotwire

^^^ Yup - there's bulbs & there's bulbs, same in automotive or 230v I always opt fo a "brand" - Philips, Osram, Sylvania for a few

Like, on both cars actually - a rich distinctive colour

As with above comments - well done with sorting the little issues. Mirrors - if you have power & earth to the element & it doesn't go - it is faulty Warning though - you don't want them connected to permanent power

Stunning looking car. Please don't bastardise it I second keeping the chrome grill, not all cars suit black...

E38, Commodore -ummm...no comparison Welcome BTW

You won't necessarily notice water out of exhaust. It is natural when cold to see it, not when hot as it evaporates. I would say you will be safe enough to drive it to Glenn, go for a shorter run first & monitor the water - if it doesn't drop - you should be right. Damage, if any is already done, as long as you don't run it out of water you will be ok. Just be aware that the temp gauge will only read water temperature - not air. Meaning if the the coolant drops below the temp gauge sender - the gauge won't show hot. Coolant warning - did this just fault after you topped up the water? Did it come on initially to indicate low before you topped it up? Make sure the sensor is not sticking in the reservior

Yup, a pity people that buy them don't appreciate this. They are far more advanced than a comparable year Toyota Corolla /Mazda Familia & as such with more to go wrong - Climate air etc... See this frequently at work - buy the car (cheap) then winge that they need to spend money on it

Firstly, coolant can go straight into combustion & out the exhaust - & not into water or oil. (head gasket/head) You say coolant was just below cold level - but you put over 2 litres of water in? Must have had a hell of a lot of air in the system. This too would make me suspicious. Leakdown test/snifer test/pressure test in cooling system. Coolant warning still on - a fault in the circuit or level down again (more likely) Secondly, heater not hot. Very common for heater taps to fail. Check in & out hose temperatures Dual climate air system? These have two taps - L/H side of firewall Edit: Got beaten to to the reply by Steve K-B

No point me - I'm miles away from you. You could clean it all yourself - a couple of cans of degreaser & a hose

AMI with everything, and always have been - our house, a rental, contents & 3 cars. We are on max discount they offer. Have only ever had a couple of screen replacements & a non blame minor damage accident in a previous car. This though was recompensed by the other party's insurance so cancelled out. Had a bitch with them a while back about increasing costs of policies so did some comparisons with other providers - none could match overall. AA for example were a liitle cheaper on cars but miles behind with house/contents. I too wait with anticipation though now they have new owners. Also in saying above - I haven't yet had the need to challenge them with a claim

^^^^ As Brent said - multiple potential places. Degrease the engine & see where it re occurs from

^^^^ No problems with clear skins being legal. They still do cut the light a little though - as can be seen on a beamsetter & also create more heat build up inside the lamp due to less heat dissipation through the glass. Generally not an issue with standard wattage bulbs but can cause issues with higher.

HB Richard, have a good one

As above - check under carpets. Heater leak maybe - is it using water?

^^^^ Surely diagnose the problem first - easy enough to do. Not disputing your logic in this case but I always like to confirm a problem.

^^^ Yup well put. Don't necessarily agree that E30 lights are piss poor though. They are atleast "round" & when lamps/reflectors are in good nick - they project good light. Any film, lamp protector lowers the light output, let alone tinted. Totally agree too - ANY WOF inspector, if they are doing their job, should pick up on lighting irregularities.

Yup, as Aidan says. These are a very complex car with plenty of things to go wrong, and do as they grow in age. Problem is - they are "cheap" to buy now, great bang for buck, but as alluded to above - they were a flagship car when new & very expensive at the time. As was the realitive maintainance cost. This cost hasn't changed, adding to the cost of part failures as the age increases - I have both seen & heard of some expensive failures in them. Not one of BMW's best models for reliability/durability. That said they certainly are a nice car to drive. Problem I see at work is people that have bought a BMW (or Audi, Benz) for the "label", often cheaply, but then unable/unwilling to spend money on the repairs that arise - not realizing that the comparable BMW /Audi/Benz are technologically many years ahead of the comparable year Jappa/Holden/Falcon & therefore more involved to repair.

Strange one then, Never been there before so strange I should be banned

Link doesn't work - "you have been banned from this forum"

^^^^^ Has the fault been determined ("apparently") or is this someones guess as to the problem? Secondly, has the said "apparent" problem been repaired? If not - there is no point trying to reset the system without having fixed it first.

Was the airbag fault determined originally? Fault codes are stored in the applicable modules & can easily be recovered - even with a non current fault.

Was the first one faulty? Who checked the car - did they know what they were doing? 02 sensors (& other sensors) can throw fault codes when they fall outside their operating parameters due to outside influences - vacuum leaks etc.

This wire simply earths the unloader relay via the starter, it is NOT a constant earth as you talk of & it has nothing to do with how well the accesorries operate - the relay simply switches power to the associated circuits - either on or off - depending on starter activation. The wire can easily be accessed via C101 engine loom plug - rather than pulling the fuse box apart.

^^^^^ My guess he connected the unloader trigger wire onto the starter solenoid terminal as is required to complete the circuit. That or he permanently earthed the trigger wire which will negate the circuit opening during cranking.

Shite you guys have been patient. I would have lost my rag with them after a couple of weeks, not months. What the hell do those guys do all day - if they don't paint their customers work...