hotwire

Back window with amp in L/H "C" pillar. Has the radio been changed? If so - the aerial amp wire been connected?

Only thing cool about that is that it is in Chch.

Well put Dave. Waste of an E12 in my book

Good and bad news with this..

The good, I have found the cause off it when I saw this:

That is the stock +12V wire for the coil in the motronic 1.3 harness, It is used to provide power to my coils. Upon abit of investigating I have pierced the power on one of the coils with the mounting screw, which screws into the metal backing plate, which is attached to the chassis... So basically I shorted the coil +12V to the chassis (probably when I removed the coils and checked the connections where plugged into the back of them).

The bad...

It's melted from all the way through the engine harness through the c101 connector, through the fusebox to the ignition.. (Atleast I think it travels to the ignition, yet to check that)

And the reverse light wire also has melted through to the fusebox.

Other than that, I have traced and checked wiring in other places and that is all I have found. Need to unwind the looms make sure these wires haven't melted anything else now. Finished for today though.. Here is my ignition wiring fix.

Also removed the taped up blower motor and soldered/heatshrinked it. Used the mini fuse box for the 12V taken off the ignition wire for ECU power to add a fuse for that too..

I hate wiring... Lol. But DIY labour is free so it's saving me alot of $$$.. So it better all work

lol @ my resizing photo fail. hehehe.

John,

Keep in mind when chasing the burnt wiring - a short will always burn from it's problem cause - back to it's source - ulimately power source (battery) but will generally run out at the next bigger wire up the line, eg, in this case - main ign feed from the switch. Obviously the smaller wire burns out first.

Auxillary circuits are all factory fused so if this wiring is burnt - things have been bypassed OR this wiring is burnt externally from sitting next to problem melting wire in the loom.

If you need any help - PM me

Motronic or L-jetronic?

Yes - depends on this as to the reason.

L-Jet uses a spring in the HT rotor to limit RPM with syntrifugal force.

Motronic is controlled by ECU

Even though new - Could still be a battery fault in the remote - seen this before. Remove cover & use a multi meter to monitor voltage across contacts while pressing a button (under load) Make sure voltage doesn't drop.

Remote could also be out of frequency range. Requires a frequency counter to check this.

Do you have a second remote/ does this work ok?

Also check battery connections in remote.

Aerial lead comes out of the alarm module itself.

Get hold of Mongoose to check it out for you: 0800 805 080

Guys - I have taken the cats out and replaced them with Coby resonators.

There is no difference with sound or performance - is that normal??

It is however - better with gas - Im getting 26MPG around town!!

Yep, normal to sound the same - cats due to their makeup will act as a resonator but a little more restrictive

Would expect better consumption figues because of this.

May not notice performance difference but if compared on a Dyno - it would no doubt show a slight gain.

No. The plug in behind the indicator housing in the bumper. Mine is a bit buggered, so it would slip & then tick fast as but the front wouldnt. If that discribes what happens to OP sometimes, then that may be "one" reason.

Same as E30ONP, I used to give it a thump with my hand it came back on, but then decided to dig deeper.

Everything isnt always a fuse.

No What?

Read the first post again! - He states "indicators" work sometimes - & not others. He doesn't say that the rears work but the front don't.

I am aware of what you are talking about & aware of the result when this happens - fast blinking - the flasher unit is designed to do this to indicate a lamp out.

From his description - yours is not "one" reason for his indicators failing. Not disputing the fault in your car & infact have seen this problem in them myself.

AND - I didn't say everything is always a fuse, infact I didn't even mention fuse in this case.

If not fuse or relay...try removing the bumper & check the plug in behind the bulb. Mine was doing the old "work sometimes, then not work" trick. Had a look and the wire in the plug was lose. Just taped it up good for now. Need a new plug, on the to do list.

Even if it is a fuse/relay check the plug & wire anyway.

Won't be that - if a front one was out then the back would still go & besides - hardly likely both front lights are out together

Oli, yep will have one, don't remember SA car as different. Which side? PM me if you like

Ok thanks guys, bloody e30's ive just had one thing after another break on it, almost every week something different shits itself where can i get a new relay?

I've got one if you require - PM me

You may be able to repair though - usually a dry joint inside the flasher which can be resoldered.

Remember - these cars are 20+ years old now so things will go wrong

Whoa- can still see it in the screen as I write this - wierd!

Hi Jochen.

So in short you mean fit wires from the trailer plug outlet back to the lights on the car? Would you have to do each individual channel i.e left & right indicator, park light & brake light?

Cheers.

Yes, thats the only way to connect to have all lights working - as is normal for trailer wiring

What is the water temp on a F/L m20b25 meant to be when "warm" ie middle of the gauge.

I have just finished redoing the plumbing and because I'm not using a E30 cluster, I don't have a gauge.

Took it for a drive and it felt bloody hot. It could be because there is no interior and windscreen though.

And any idea how I can measure it with a basic probe style thermometer that my dad uses for refrigeration?

Firstly - put a gauge in it!

Normal operating temp around 88 deg mark

& obviously - make sure it's bled properly

For better HP gain am I better to: (in place of the OEM cats)

1. Resonator

2. High Flow Cat

3. Straight pipe

Keeping in mind there will be the Y resonator, stock muffler/silencer for back pressure.

I would say minimal difference, if noticeable, either way. I have no experience with hi flow cats though

Hey guys.

I have a e30 325i south af.

It has a current draw from somewhere.

It will drain a battery in 2 days.

When the vehicle is off doors shut everything turned off ect.ect. i am getting a 0.1a current draw.

I pull each fuse one by one and it doesnt change for any of the fuses.

Disconnected power to the altinator, also no change.

Anyone have any ideas? where to look? previouse experiences?

Cheers

Oli

Yep - as Brent said - check window switch illumination.

0.1 is still very little (little more than twice the norm) & that in itself will not flatten a good battery in a couple of days - even a week for that matter.

Will not be a bulb anywhere as draw would be more

If I just straight pipe it will it be too loud / droney?

It will still have the OEM Y resonator, muffler/silencer at back in place.

Yep, with straight pipe replacement will be slightly louder & a little droney - I have done this before on one of these for a customer. Not excessive though:-

If you don't want more noise - go for what Glenn has suggested. I would suggest a fluted type bullet resonator as quietest & to mimick the cats

Thanks, Glenn - right on the money mate. BMW dealer confrims that it is the heater fan resistor block.

I appreciate your advice.

Regards

Ray

Ouch!! not cheap! Realitively common problem though

Where does it say its illegal? The lights still work

Think you've already confirmed that when you say (& show) that the lights are not as bright as before the mods to them

So this means you could remove both bulbs and paint the lens red?

I guess so David -smartass if you don't want to see behind

Thanks Grant,

Now I just have to locate the reverse wires-could we have pulled them thro?

Wouldn't have thought so, have you still got the auto box? If so -where is the reverse switch wiring on it & where did that wiring connect to?

Hey Grant, Reversing lights are in section 10, under optional lights in the regulations, I just had a look.

10.5 Fitting and performance requirements for reversing lamps

10.5(1) The light emitted by a reversing lamp, when operated, must be substantially white.

10.5(2) A motor vehicle, other than one in <a href="http://www.landtransport.govt.nz/rules/vehicle-lighting-2004.html#1054">10.5(4), may be fitted with one or two reversing lamps that operate only when:

• (a) the reverse gear is engaged; or
• ( the headlamps are extinguished.

10.5(3) A reversing lamp fitted to a motor vehicle must emit a diffuse light or a dipped beam of light;

<a href="http://" target="_blank"></a>10.5(4) A vehicle of Group A must not be fitted with a reversing lamp.

Yep agree but this will be when fitting aftermarket

There is still a lighting requirement: - if a light is fitted - it must work

In this case - they are part of the light cluster

Reverse lights are policed by VT here - generally

Front fogs - again - if present - they must work & to specs. They can however be removed completely - often the case where one is damaged

Hey Grant-just 2 on the inhibitor.

Heres what I've done;

2 black,1 yellow looped together-connected to nothing else altho threads say this is where 1 reverse should connect.

Part of the same "harness": blue-connected to brown(inhibitor)(also where threads say 2nd reverse should connect) & the purple (inhibitor) is not connected to anything.

brown-not connected to anything

I suspect we may not have the connection from the box-my mate may have pulled it thro when the auto came out-is this possible?

Mark,

Can't remember on car but from BMW wiring info:

Green/yellow is ign in

Green/Black is start out

Blue/White is reverse out

Meaning: Join Green/Yellow to Green/Black for inhibitor bypass

Also connect Green/Yellow to one wire to reverse switch & blue/white to the other

Brown is earth & not used for start/reverse circuits but is earth for auto shifter illumination - now not used.

SA colours may vary (can't remember) but wiring configuration should be the same.

If this is the case - Confirm 12v wire (ign), join to start wire & also to one reverse switch wire & the other switch wire to the third one

You don't need reversing lights for a WoF, I diddn't have any for two years

then I eventually bought the 50 dollar replacement switch, I thaught it was going to be Hundreds.

Check the LTSA lighting rules.

Like I said - maybe they omitted to check reverse lights - often the case but doesn't change the ruling

All the threads I've read indicated there are 2 wires to the reverse lights under the centre console which need to be reconnected to the yell/green/black which are also there.

Well they aint & I'm stumped.Sorted the inhibitor switch & she's all go-just no reverses(or rear fogs for that matter but I doubt thats connected to this little prob)

Definitely not fuses & dont laugh but I'm assuming it had reverses before-I've never driven it at night LOL.

Car is 90 f/l e30 SA

And by the way,the 5spd & new diff is just frickin awesome

Regarding reverse wiring, yes the SA cars differ in many aspects but Im not sure the reverse light wiring does. (Don't quote me though) The switch is still on the box as usual & still requires connecting to the car so wiring must be there somewhere. Inhibitor switch is same in both cars.

How many wires were in the plug for the inhibitor switch?

They aren't a WOF requirement btw.

I have to disconnect mine from the gearbox or else everytime I pop it in reverse, it blows fuse #10 and if the car turns off it won't start until fuse 10 is replaced.. Took me ages to figure out it was caused from going into reverse and that the reverse lights were doing it hah...

But WOF and cert didn't seem to mention it. The wires are just dangling by the side of the box too. Lol.

Sorry, not true.

If a light is fitted - it MUST work. They are part of the light cluster so rule applies.

On that note though - not all inspectors check them - hense not getting pinged