hotwire

I'd be up for that, just don't make it Fridays as traffic would be terrible trying to leave Auckland.

Good for us south of Bombays though

Oop's - Gotta get the car going first

Did the hi stop work correctly before - ie - has it just started doing that? Probably incorrectly wired - earth?

Second fault certainly sounds like an earth issue. Was anything done to the car before these faults occured?

Did they both occur at the same time?

Are you meaning the metal rib strips that support the rubber? These are part of the blade itself. -Have you got plastic back blades?

You can get metal back blades instead to replace. A little dearer but much better blades as they flex to the screen shape better.

Nice car, good on you. Now to add your fanatical touch to it & it'll be a minter

So if i have all the right parts is it just simply a matter of connecting up the power and earthing it?

Yes - as I stated earlier in the thread:-

Nice collection & great pics - well done! Love the E21

Bring it on - can't wait!

Yep, sorry to disagree Dan but 6 cyls quite ok (agree the 520i is gutless though) IMO - our 525i (523i NZ badging) is a great car. Obviously power wise 28 & 30's better & 40 better again.

Each to their own though - "Gutless" is subjective:-

I like the 8's but if getting another E39 I would probably opt for a 530i

Repco had a rather flash battery tester. It said the alternator was fine and the battery was only holding 25% of its charge. He performed two different tests. One on start up and one under load.

Result was a new battery at $160.

Makes a nice change to get some decent service at Repco.

Good on you.

No offense to you but they can stick those flash electronic battery testers where the sun don't shine!

Have had debates with battery reps over the years with those things - Warrenty battery - Them - "Nothing wrong with that battery according to this tester" Bulshit, wait while I get my carbon pile tester - sure enough - crook battery.

They are usefull but can't diagnose all battery faults - e.g. -under proper load

Don't know - haven't looked but it is pretty self explanitory with the parts in your hand - just somewhat fiddly

Done one. Bit of dicking around but straight forward.

Get the WHOLE electric mechanism inc relay & wiring. Earth connects to bolt up at motor, power wire runs down L/H pillar & connects to a pre wired plug behind glovebox

Hi all,

Problems problmes problems !! My car is giving me never ending problems.

I was adjusting the passenger seat and the seat went out of shape, so got the car back to panel beater, they have fixed it now, but they have put a second hand seat now, which I am not really happy about since this seat is having lot of wear compared to rest of my seat.

I also reported about the wobbling and they found problem in the RIM, first insurance company said its because of wear and tear of the car, but after a long discussion they agreed to do it. I had none of these problems before the accident.

If there is a problem in the seat? will they only fix a second hand seat for the car?? can some one give me some advise here ??

My panel beater is saying he is governed by the insurance company and the asseser is upset since its crossing the budget than he assumed.

Looks like my ride is totally compromised here, I have to get back to panel beater again, before that just wanted to get you guys view on this.

Would hardly call it problems, problems, never ending problems.

Yes the car should be repaired to "as before" condition.

It seems they overlooked the bent rim - but have fixed it now:-

Broken seat: If replacement is required then you can expect one of equal condition to be fitted. You won't get a new one due to the age of the car. What is the problem with the replacement? If it is the covering then get them to have it swapped with your original- assuming a good replacement cannot be obtained.

M50 engines use different sizes for manual or auto,

M20 use the same throughout im pretty sure, except older ones have a larger sized casing but teeth are same

Yes - M20's starters definitely interchange - early to late & vice versa. Same teeth etc, just that the late unit is a reduction drive & hense smaller housing.

Also manual/auto - the same

Battery (Alt) light coming on with key & off with engine running? - Probably charging OK

Check charging with a meter (around 14v) also check for current draw. If no meter to do so then take to an auto sparky - 5 min job.

I would suspect though that the battery is probably naffed - again - a sparky to test

M20 starters all the same. The earlier model - bigger Bosch unit & later (facelift car) Bosch reduction drive (smaller unit) - both interchange either way. Neither will have adverse effects either way.

I think from memory I supplied you with a starter quite a while ago via TM - hope this is not the one that has failed - if it was - I would be most surprised if it did.

Sounds like you may have an alighnment issue of some sort

.15 is a little high but hardly over the top - is there an alarm in the equation?

Usually "normal" anywhere between .02 & .06

How long are you checking for? Key illumination? if so are you allowing time for this to go off?

.15 is only a tenth higher & with normal car use - this wouldn't be an issue.

Doesn't point to a bulb on or alt issue as current draw would be higher

Could be a problem anywhere & not necessarily easily diagnosed on here.

Best get it checked by an auto sparky.

And, no sarcasim intended -this is why they have ratings on fuses - DONT overate them!

Keeeeeen for one of those!

Got one of those off Ebay out of UK - about $70 from memory

Nice choice of car Andrew

PM'ed you for TV/ipod

Nice car but for the Bastardised Yank look - bumpers/front indicators. Would have my E12 anyday

so the 320i come out with both the 240 and the 260 gearboxes if i understand correctly?

does anyone have a shorter arm and a shorter driveshaft? im now guessing that the donor car for this gear box would have been a 318i, and then the assumption made of the arms and driveshafts being the same. i would contact the guy but i doubt he would answer his phone to me, been having a lot of communication issues.

320i/325i will take either 240 or 260 boxes although 325 was specced with heavier 260 unit.

318i 240 box is different & WONT mate to 6 cyl cars

You must have a mismatch of driveshafts

You are seriously **beep!** kidding me?! Nothing in my boot toolkit. Guess I need to go buy one off someone...any one got one for sale?

Have justed popped that cap off and the bolt the hook screws into looks a bit rusty. Can that bolt be replaced or is that a non-removable part?

Non removable - part of the front chassis rail. CRC when you screw in the hook & it should be ok

As for requiring reverse lights for WOF: If a light (any light) is fitted - it MUST work.

Possible for any fault you mentioned but more likely reverse light switch on gearbox (not inhibitor switch) Need a test light or meter to trace fault

sh*t, how many thermostats has this car got

Not a problem Glenn - as long as you don't machine below minimum thickness