hotwire

Its a bad/ no earth somewhere. Cant remember where earth points are off hand but check for brown wires connecting to body - under the bonnet

All E30's have a gas strut on R/H side. If not there then it has been taken off.

Very common to loose pressure & not hold bonnet too.

As said above - replace or regas

for some reason my back lights are staying on including my rear window light?

I see the last owner has ran the rear window wire to the drivers side rear cluster and scotched locked into the factory wires! I dont know why can anyone help me resolve this thanks?

What lights - stop or tail? Rear window light - Hi stop??

Some people make you wonder Bloody waste of what looked a mint E46

Euro assembled Pre F/L cars have the belts mounted inside the boot vertically on each side - behind side trims.

In S/African assembled pre F/L cars they are mounted inside the car under the rear parcel tray trim & on top of tray itself - same as all the F/L cars.

Classic!

That's the googly eyes on the E46 compact... very different to the sedans and coupes. I wasn't too sure about it myself but they're growing on me...

Absolutely hate! Then again - not a great fan of compacts either

would certainly buy it from you if I'm in AK... unfortunately

Was looking at the Bosch catalogue, it doesn't really tell me if I should buy BSDIN65L or BSDIN65LL

Which one should I get for 2001 E46

Don't quote as I am not familiar with Bosch part numbers but my guess is - probably difference between "L" & "LL" is same battery but one reverse post to the the other.

Match configuration layout to your current one.

Ebay for a 16:9 screen. Be aware that you will need to replace the video module as well to get 16:9 display

PM me for explanation.

Hey Guys ,

The light came on in my e46 got it scanned and it said it was the sensor mat in the passengers side.. Is it dangerous to drive with this light on ? could it possibly be able to damage other elctronics?

I was quoted around $550 to get this fixed.Is this a fair price ? Or should i just save up for some leather or suede seats ? thanks for the advice

Andrew

Not dangerous from an electronics point of view, but dangerous because of no passenger air bag operation when in the need of.

Also needs fixing for a WOF. Sounds about right for a price to fix.

DONT look to cheat on a fix -they are there for a reason.

If replacing the seats - it obviously still requires a working sensor circuit in the passenger seat for the system to operate

Done!

How on earth did 285 people find the X5 the most desirable???? And 148 the X3???? WTF?

Prolly cause they own one:- Can't imagine why else

Myself - torn between E9, M1 & E30 M3

Bruce, Firstly, punctuation would make your post a hell of a lot easier to read & interpret:-

Fuel pressure - from memory - runs at about 33-34psi @ 2.5 -3 litres per min delivery

Realitively typical of any older 2.L car. Not brilliant with short around town running but obviously better with open road hot running.

Sounds like a voltage issue - what rating is the stereo? Is there a separate amp involved?

Check wiring connections -power/earth. Could be charging issue - check voltage at idle. Wont be battery causing problem

Mongoose, Dynatron to name a couple. You can just get a keyless locking kit if thats all you want. An entry level alarm is not a lot more cost though.

WTF? The guy is asking a legitimate question. If you aren't going to add anything productive, don't post FFS!

Think he's taking the mickey from a previous post of his.

Are you sure the handbrake isn't dragging? Lift rear end & with handbrake off - make sure both wheels turn freely

I'm interested in this for my e30, just wondering if there are any issues that BS members have found with putting keyless systems in their cars?

Especially earlier models, I'm sure I've seen a few things online where the keyless system has caused problems with some older vehicles...

cheers

No reason at all to have problems if the system you put in is a quality unit.

hi guys.

after having a look at Nicks 1999 E36 323 UK import... i'm wanting a factory alarm system, as his closes all windows, and the sunroof, when the alarm is engaged... which i though was coool.....

any ideas?

Can add a window lift module to any remote alarm. Can do the sunroof as well

Dan,

Any alarm/immobiliser with remote locking ability or remote locking kit will connect directly to the locking module in the car & give you keyless locking/unlocking of doors/boot/cap.

All actuators in your car are electric.

Some Benz & VW/Audi cars are all that I know are vacuum operated.

These kits can operate vacuum systems but often require resetting to extend the lock pulse duration & sometimes fitting an electric actuator in the drivers door

No it dosen't support OBD2 - this was 2000>

Has the older 19 pin round connector port in engine bay on LHS by the strut tower

Give the thing a thump with your fist.

Mine did this a while ago and hasnt done it since. I understand you can take them apart yourself and fix it, Ive seen the writeup on the web but cant find it now Im looking for it !

Hey, i tried what Penry said, works like a charm is back to norman now..

Thanks guys

Bets on as to whos is going to reappear with fault first

Have you tried agents? - Might surprise. Don't hold your breath for S/H because of the high demand on manuals

Its a 1989 318i not that it matters.

When I say right I mean drivers side.

The right indicator was being dodgey, it would click fast then click slow then not click at all and none of the right hand indicator lights would work. They would however work perfectly and click at the normal speed with the hazard light button. Left indicator was all good if maybe a little slow.

So I got a new flasher unit / relay, the one that is under the under bit of steering column plastic. Its pictured.

I put it in and everything was doing the same thing except the relay would make a high pitched buzz with the right indicator switched on. I didn't know where to put that black wire. When I came back the next day it all worked perfectly including the right indicator the first time I tried it but the horn wouldnt work. Then it went back to buzzing, or doing a couple of good clicks then buzzing. We tested the ground with a multimeter but blew the indicator fuse cause we had it in wrong.

So I need to get a new fuse but between now and then can people (aka hotwire!) bounce some ideas off me. Telling me what to test would be good. And telling me what to do with that black wire (spade one end, loop other) that the relay came with.

Surely someone else has had to replace this flasher unit before?

thanks max

Dunno on reason for the black wire - not needed in the E30 anyway.

Also - highly unlikely to be a flasher problem. Usual failure of these is a dry solder joint causing no go or no flash

May have a short in the right hand circuit OR a faulty contact connection in the switch on R/H side (latter probably more likely)

$80 or so from memory