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will

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Everything posted by will

  1. Emma, I'm waiting..!!!
  2. will

    HELP!

    That light normally signals "limp to workshop" mode. You should take it in asap to a competent company and get it checked over. It may be something simple, but may be ready to self-destruct. Don't take a chance and drive it all over the place.
  3. there are different brake setups for the rears, the on Andrew describes is an earlier setup, yours may be different, so check. I go with Steve's remark, I would reuse the bolt but with locktite or similar.
  4. talk about dumbass!! Didn't have anything to do with Jagermeister did it?? man, my head hurts just thinking about it..
  5. Have found one, all to be revealed soon!! Will
  6. Chris, the best I can make out is the revcounter wire is a black wire in the blue plug that goes to the instrument cluster. This connects to the main engine harness plug via terminal 9. I assume it then would connect to the ignition box to get the signal to fire the revcounter. So, the best I can do for now is get you to check the wires from the main engine loom plug, paying particular attention to pin 9 and see if all is ok there. The only other wire that might do this is a yellow/white wire that goes to terminal 8, but I think that controls the economy meter. Will see if I can dig up any more. Will
  7. I will get back to you..
  8. will

    1988 E30 318i

    Doesn't look at all bad from the pics, looks like a decent base to start off with. Good luck with it! M50 turbo, now there's a thought!!! Will
  9. You have a pre-f/l 320 motor with dizzy down the side of the block, right Chris? Can't remember right now what you had.. The older 320 motor didn't have the revcounter pickup on the HT lead like the later ones have, it gets it's signal from the control box I think. Will check for you. I have had a couple of rev-counters die on me before, may just be the gauge itself. The light working intermittantly wouldn't have had anything to do with the rev counter, it is on the same circuit as the speedo light. Will
  10. that should indicate a 3.5 Sam, the 2.8 has 2.5/2.8 stamped on it (from memory, but I'm old and am so enjoying senility!!.. ) also, if you can see the engine number (will be somewhere down the lhs (passenger) side of the motor, it will have a sequence of 3 paired/single numbers/letters, the first of which will indicate the capacity of the motor. The long sequence of about 8 numbers either above or below this paired triple sequence is the actual engine number. check below, the 18 at the top lhs indicates a 1.8 motor (from my 318 vert), I have just checked my 328, the rows are reversed but the first 2 numbers below the engine number are 28, so seems to hold true.
  11. will

    User name changes?

    I couldn't imagine you being politically correct!
  12. Don't you apologise for anything. Yours was a perfectly good enquiry. The problem began when this retard started getting into people by thinking that he is the only one who is capable of working on BMW gearboxes. Kerry offered to strip one and do a write-up at the same time. This retard then climbed into Kerry, suggesting that he was incapable of doing the job. Those of us who know Kerry would know that he has long forgotten things this retard is unlikely ever to know as he is too stupid to realise that he is not the god-like person he somehow thinks he is. I think the remark that he completed his schooling refers to the fact that he got through Kindie without being thrown out and his mechanical qualification is due to having a mecchano set and managing to work out how to put a nut and a bolt together. This is a decent forum that doesn't need retards like this grinding low bimmer plonker. Will
  13. Someone should delete you, you stupid retard.. passed school with merit and excellence??? Must have been one hell of a school you went to judging by you use of the english language and spelling abilities. Go and find another forum that is infested with little think-they-know-it-all retards like you. Your attitude is not welcome on this one!
  14. so where do I go to pay homage to you... SUPERSTAR!!
  15. I'd rather have her than a fat ugly chick that crashes into backs of cars..
  16. Kerry has probably worked on more gearboxes than you have had sleeps in your life... SUPERSTAR!!
  17. will

    Quick Questions

    Graham is right in this case, with the head off, you should be able to lift the block high enough to get the sump clear of the crossmember. I have always struggled to lift the complete motor high enough as the head normally hits the firewall before there is really enough room to get the sump free, so have resorted to getting the crossmember clear to get the sump out. Will
  18. will

    Quick Questions

    you don't need to lift it up, just support it as the engine mounts are on the crossmember, so will drop when you lower the crossmember unless you hold it up. Will
  19. will

    Quick Questions

    you will have to support the motor to remove/lower the crossmember. use a rope around the front crank pulley and put a plank/steel bar/whatever across the tops of the fenders and wind the rope several times round it and the pulley, then insert a short bar through the rope and wind it by twisting the rope up and secure the bar to hold the rope tight. this should support the engine enough to remove or drop the crossmember. put some padding under the plank across the fenders if you want to protect them do you follow what I am trying to describe? Will
  20. will

    Quick Questions

    not really. you might have a few torx head bolts on the ali brace you have to remove from the underside of the bellhousing. rest is reasonably straightfoward. you will have to support the engine from the top and lower or remove the crossmember too. the oil pickup won't allow you to remove the sump without getting the crossmember clear. Will
  21. will

    HB Ash

    Have a good 'un young fella.. Will
  22. Gary is looking for his blow-up doll...
  23. doesn't sound like a belt from what you describe, but to eliminate it, just put a hosepipe down there and spray the belts with water while it is running. The water will eliminate or soften the noise if it is the belts. Use a stethescope or screwdriver or length of tube against your ear to more accurately pinpoint the source of the knock if it is coming from the engine. I would suggest it is a lifter problem. Will
  24. this also applies over there..
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