will

Thanks Martyyn, have tried the disconnect battery and reset button tricks already but not the disconnect the OBC plug itself. Will give it a bash (but not Gary style...) Will

Hey Gary, you sound like Gus with his hammer... use maximum available force to solve all problems..

My OBC in my 'vert has a gremlin in it.. displays time and date fine but comes up with all PPPP when using any other function eg consump, temp, range.. I have not come across this before. Was working fine last time I used the car. See pic attached. Tried disconnecting the battery and using the reset functions etc but still PPPP... Anyone have any ideas as to how to repair it? Who might repair it? Alternatively, has anyone a good spare for me? Will

Em, I would suggest the following negotiated price approach, different words but same body language... he may just hand you the keys and flee..!!! Will

Motronic has the distributor cap on the front of the head, others had it down the passenger side of the block. Will

Em, after your response about what you would do to your boyfriend if he did what Kerry was proposing etc etc I am too damn scared not to put it up in my BM... senility has nothing to do with it !!! your 'olds" are still youngsters btw... Will

Have emailed you Em... Will

I have 3 E30 325's at the moment that are approaching 300kms and all still go very well and don't use oil. Puff a bit of smoke on startup but that is just hard valve stem seals and not worth worrying about. Had an E12 M535i in SA that had 340k on the clock before it was stolen. Also didn't have any problems and was only 4kw off spec on the dyno. My old faithful diesel toyota has nearly 400kms on the clock, drips a bit of oil from the rear crank seal but still doesn't use oil between services and uses around 5litres/100km. I service all my cars regularly with good oil, drive them very hard but don't thrash them.. (not often anyway.. ) Will

Em, I may be senile but I'm DEFINITELY not senile enough to drive a Merc..!!!!!

Hi Martyyn, yes, just the clears. I have emailed a couple of sites in the UK that have them and they will post to OZ but not NZ...????!!!! Can't figure it out. There is one site there that may but havn't got any response to my emails despite trying a few times. Don't want to buy and find there is some sort of problem getting it here after paying for them. This is the auction, will show you what I am after.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1 cheers Will

Reading your problem of a misfire, I wondered if it wasn't my favourite plug giving you problems.. below is from a post I made some time ago. Check it out, it controls a host of things on the engine which could contribute to your problem. Apart from this, check the resistance across your HT leads, check dist cap for crack, rotor for leakage to earth and even possibly condensation under the dist cap.. Maybe your injectors need a cleaner through them after standing idle for a while. Check all earthing points for the engine loom etc, earthing can be a major source of frustration in the e30. I don't suppose you replaced the cambelt while you were at it?? It is bloody easy to get it 1 tooth out... That would cause a lack of power. If you havn't, I would do it as a matter of course as you will be thrashing it around the track and you dont want it to break at 7000rpm, believe me!!! I have attached another pic of the plug in question as I can't get the photo across from the other posting.. Will

Yup, clear sides coming and indicator lenses when I can find someone to send me the indicator lenses I like, don't like the crystal ones that are available locally. The guys that have them on Ebay don't post to NZ.... Europlate coming too.. Tried hard for a set of Alpinas a while ago but they were too expensive in the end, but I have a set of 16" rims which are going on when I have finished polishing/painting them. Thanks Em, but as long as it doesn't have the word Honda on it anywhere... and enough of the 'young'!! I am enjoying my senility.. Will

Thought I would post a preview of Alley's new ride. She has wanted one for as long as I can remember. I have not finished it completely yet, have done a list of things to it as long as your arm and still some to go, but would appreciate comments as to what you think so far. I have taken dozens of pics of the whole process and will post a full story of the rebuild as soon as I have figured how to embed the pics in the text of the write-up, not just attach them as I can only do now. (senility rules... ) And grateful thanks to Gus for taking the time to view it some time ago for me to make sure it wasn't a rusty piece of sh*t... we will have beers next time I am down.... Will

,,,

Hey Gary, bit of water, soap and sponge would go down well... Will

Also, if you look to the front of A under the fuel press regulator you will see 2 more blank plugs, you could use one of these as well. You can also use the plugs at B. Will

Yup, thats it... Should have a single wire going to it. Just remove it and get an adaptor but you must try to get the sender for your new gauge into the water flow. Will

Standard temp gauge sender is the brown plug at the top front of the motor, the blue one next to it controls the fuel mix so don't stuff with the blue one. Most radiators have plugs on the side for the electric fans that work in conjunction with the aircon. If you dont have aircon, you could use this point. Also, in front of the brown and blue temp senders there are often 2 more blanked off holes on the M20 motor. These can also be used for temp. That big coiled thing is a capillary tube, is easily damaged so be careful with it. As you say, best place for oil temp is via the sump plug. If you have an oil cooler fitted, you can get it put into the oil cooler radiator. Oil pressure takeoff point is on driver's side in front of engine mounting at the bottom of the block. I would suggest keeping the warning light... I blew a motor a long time ago as a result of not having this light, only the gauge, didn't notice the loss of oil pressure as a result of a broken oil pump drive, the light would have visually warned me of impending doom... I would personally prefer electric gauges, they are much less hassle to fit than the ones with capillary tubes, and the wiring is simple. Will

Are they all electric and, if so, do they come with their senders?? Will

Hey Kerry Don't worry, funniest thread for a long time. Have chatted to Emma for a while now and pictured her as a well sorted teenager... hahahahaha.... enter the monster... hahahahaha !!!! Made my Christmas it did.. Never mind Emma, we still love you... as long as you keep your distance..!!! Will

They sho' do breed them wild down there in the deep south Pity that salesman if Emma doesn't get her car though, maybe someone should foward this thread to him and his family to save him from a terrible fate.... Maybe c.c. the same email to Santa??? Don't want the jolly old fella getting mugged by Emma if he brings her a Honda for Xmas !!!

hey cliff the 320 is a pretty gutless car (no torque), you have to rev it to get any sort of response. I don't think you will notice much difference in the power even around town with the PS. AC would affect it more. I have a few 320's, some manual and some auto, the autos are really slack, a manual 318 will leave them for dead in pulloff, the manual 320 is not too bad, sounds great when revved. My wife's 318 manual sounds like a girl's car even when revved... but then I suppose she is a girl (although very old now like me)... Will

word..

Yup, but there are different racks which have specific hydraulic hoses so you need to get the rack complete with all hoses. Pumps are the same, as is the reservoir bottle. (at least I havn't seen different pump shapes..) Engine mounting pump brackets differ between 4 and 6 cylinder motors so you will need the bracket for your specific motor... Will

senility FTW.. .....and 39 is already really old !!!